Sannō Gongen: The Sacred Mountain King of Mt. Hiei
High above the ancient capital of Kyoto, the misty peaks of Mount Hiei have stood as a spiritual sentinel for over a millennium. While many travelers flock to the famous Enryakuji Temple, fewer understand the complex and fascinating power protecting it: Sannō Gongen. Known as the “Mountain King Avatar,” Sannō Gongen is not merely a single god, but a profound representation of Japan’s historical blend of Shinto and Buddhism.
For the culture-seeking traveler, understanding Sannō Gongen unlocks a deeper appreciation of Japanese spirituality, revealing how ancient nature worship and imported Buddhist philosophy intertwined to create a unique religious landscape.
Origins: The Guardian of the Tendai Sect
The story of Sannō Gongen begins in the late 8th century with the monk Saichō, the founder of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. When Saichō established Enryakuji on Mount Hiei, he did not displace the local gods; instead, he revered them. He enshrined the local Shinto deities—specifically Oyamakui-no-kami, the god of Mount Hiei—as the protectors of his new Buddhist monastery.
This fusion is the essence of Shinbutsu-shūgō (the syncretism of Kami and Buddhas). The term “Gongen” translates to “avatar” or “incarnation,” implying that these Japanese Kami were actually local manifestations of universal Buddhist deities. Thus, the local mountain spirit became Sannō Gongen, the guardian deity of the Tendai sect. This relationship became so significant that the head shrine, Hiyoshi Taisha (located at the eastern foot of the mountain), is honored alongside the temple complex to this day.
Legend: The Divine Monkey Messenger
One cannot discuss Sannō Gongen without noticing the ubiquity of monkeys. Unlike most shrines where foxes or lion-dogs stand guard, the shrines dedicated to Sannō Gongen feature the Masaru (sacred monkey).
According to legend, monkeys were the servants of the mountain deities. In Japanese, the word for monkey is saru. This creates a powerful play on words:
- Masaru (魔去): “Evil departs.”
- Masaru (勝): “To excel” or “victory.”
Because of these homophones, the monkey is seen as a bringer of luck and a protector against misfortune. Historical artwork often depicts Sannō Gongen appearing as a white monkey or accompanied by them. In the medieval period, it was believed that these divine monkeys carried the prayers of the faithful up the steep slopes of Mount Hiei to the gods.
Modern Culture and the Sanno Festivals
While the concept of Sannō Gongen originated in the misty mountains of Shiga and Kyoto, its influence spread across Japan, most notably to Tokyo (formerly Edo). When the Tokugawa Shogunate established Edo as the seat of power, they invited the spirit of Sannō Gongen to protect the new capital, enshrining the deity at the Hie Shrine in Akasaka.
Today, this legacy lives on in the Sanno Matsuri, one of the three great festivals of Tokyo (Edo San-Taisai). Held in mid-June in even-numbered years, this festival features a massive procession that winds through the heart of modern Tokyo, passing the Imperial Palace. It is a striking juxtaposition of ancient costume and ritual against a backdrop of glass skyscrapers, proving that the “Mountain King” still holds sway in the modern metropolis.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Sacred Sites
If you wish to pay respects to Sannō Gongen, there are two primary locations to add to your itinerary:
1. Hiyoshi Taisha (Shiga Prefecture)
This is the head headquarters of all Hie/Sanno shrines. Located in Sakamoto, just a short train ride from Kyoto.
- Look for the Sanno Torii: This unique shrine gate features a triangle shape on top, symbolizing the mountain and Buddhist theology.
- Best Time to Visit: Late November. The shrine is famous for its vibrant autumn maple leaves.
2. Hie Shrine (Tokyo)
Located in the Akasaka district, this is a sanctuary of calm in the city.
- The Monkey Statues: Instead of Komainu (lion-dogs), look for the statue of a mother monkey holding a baby. It is a popular power spot for prayers regarding safe childbirth and marriage.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep theological roots of Sannō Gongen, the following texts and historical records offer extensive insight:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Contains the early mythology of Oyamakui-no-kami, the deity identified as the core of Sannō Gongen.
- The Yōtenki: A medieval historical record detailing the history of Mount Hiei and the Hiyoshi shrines.
- Allan G. Grapard’s “The Protocol of the Gods”: An excellent English-language academic resource on the history of the Hiyoshi shrines and the evolution of Sannō beliefs.