The Undying Samurai: The Legend of Taira no Masakado
In the shadow of Tokyo’s gleaming skyscrapers, amidst the bustling financial district of Otemachi, lies a small, stone plot of land that commands fear and respect from even the most powerful corporate executives. This is the Masakado no Kubizuka (The Mound of Masakado’s Head), the final resting place of Taira no Masakado. Known as one of Japan’s “Three Great Vengeful Spirits” (Nihon San Dai Onryo), Masakado’s legacy is a fascinating blend of history, occult horror, and modern urban legend.
Origins: The First Samurai Rebel
To understand the ghost, one must first understand the man. Taira no Masakado lived during the Heian period in the 10th century. A powerful samurai based in the Kanto region, he became embroiled in local land disputes that escalated into a full-scale rebellion against the central imperial court in Kyoto.
In a move of unprecedented audacity, Masakado declared himself the “New Emperor” (Shinno) in 939 AD. He established a court in what is now Ibaraki Prefecture and appointed his own officials. This act of high treason terrified the Emperor in Kyoto, who promptly dispatched forces to quell the uprising. In 940 AD, outnumbered and outmaneuvered, Masakado was killed in the Battle of Kojima by his cousin Taira no Sadamori and Fujiwara no Hidesato. His rebellion was short-lived, but his spiritual reign was just beginning.
The Legend of the Flying Head
Following his death, Masakado’s head was severed and taken to Kyoto to be displayed on a spike as a warning to potential traitors. However, according to folklore, the head did not rot. Instead, it ground its teeth and shouted, “Where is my body? Come to me! I will fight once more!”
One night, the head reportedly began to glow and flew into the sky, traveling hundreds of miles east toward his home in the Kanto region. Exhausted by the flight, the head fell to the ground in a fishing village called Shibasaki (modern-day Otemachi, Tokyo). Terrified villagers cleaned the head and buried it to appease his spirit, creating the Kubizuka (Head Mound).
The Curse of Otemachi
The legend of Masakado’s curse gained significant traction in the modern era, particularly following the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. The Ministry of Finance, whose building stood next to the mound, was destroyed. During the rebuilding process, archaeologists excavated the mound. Shortly after, the Minister of Finance and 13 other officials involved in the project died under mysterious circumstances or suffered severe accidents.
Terrified, the ministry restored the mound. Decades later, following World War II, American occupation forces attempted to demolish the site to build a parking lot. The bulldozer driver died suddenly when the machine flipped over. Since then, no one has dared to move the grave. Today, skyscrapers are built around it, designed specifically not to overshadow the plot, and local office workers bow respectfully when passing by.
Modern Culture and Worship
Masakado’s spirit is not merely feared; it is also worshipped. He was eventually enshrined as a deity at the Kanda Myojin Shrine to appease his anger. In this context, he is viewed as a guardian of Tokyo and a symbol of resistance against corrupt authority.
His influence permeates Japanese pop culture. He appears as a powerful entity in the Shin Megami Tensei video game series and is a central plot point in the fantasy novel and film Teito Monogatari (Tokyo: The Last Megalopolis), where villains attempt to awaken his spirit to destroy Tokyo. The duality of his character—both a terrifying curse and a protective guardian—makes him a unique figure in Japanese folklore.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Sites
If you wish to pay your respects to the samurai ghost, there are two primary locations in Tokyo you should visit. However, locals advise treating these sites with the utmost solemnity.
1. Masakado no Kubizuka (The Head Mound)
Located near Otemachi Station (Exit C5), the mound is nestled between high-rise office buildings. It is a small, quiet sanctuary.
- Etiquette: Do not take selfies with the grave. Bow respectfully, offer a silent prayer, and do not disturb the offerings left by others.
2. Kanda Myojin Shrine
A short walk from Akihabara, this vibrant shrine is where Masakado is deified.
- Highlight: This shrine is famous for blessing electronics and businesses. You can purchase a “Masakado omamori” (amulet) for protection against bad luck and to help win battles (business or personal).
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical accounts of Taira no Masakado, the primary source is the Shōmonki (The Chronicle of Masakado), a war chronicle written shortly after his death in the mid-10th century. While earlier texts like the Kojiki or Nihon Shoki focus on the age of gods and early emperors, the Shōmonki provides a vital glimpse into the rise of the samurai class. Additionally, the Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past) contains folklore surrounding his death and the supernatural events that followed.