Kakizome: The Scent of the First Calligraphy
In the stillness of a Japanese winter morning, usually on the second day of January, a distinct aroma wafts through traditional homes and bustling temples alike. It is not the smell of incense or cooking pine, but the earthy, calming scent of sumi (black ink). This is the scent of Kakizome (書き初め), the “First Writing” of the year.
For cultural travelers and lovers of Japanese aesthetics, Kakizome is more than just a penmanship exercise; it is a ritual of setting intentions, a spiritual cleansing, and a celebration of the enduring power of the written word. As the ink grinds against the stone and the brush touches the pristine white paper, the writer captures their spirit for the year ahead.
The Origins: From Imperial Courts to Edo Schools
The tradition of Kakizome finds its roots in the Heian period (794–1185), an era defined by aristocratic refinement and artistic flourishing. Originally, it was a courtly ceremony known as Kissho-no-hajime (the beginning of auspicious books), where emperors and nobles would compose poetry to welcome the New Year.
However, it wasn’t until the Edo period (1603–1868) that the practice spread to the general populace. This democratization of calligraphy coincided with the rise of Terakoya (temple schools), which educated commoners in reading and writing. The second day of January became significant because it was traditionally viewed as the “start of work” (shigoto-hajime) or the beginning of lessons. Parents believed that having children practice their brush strokes on this specific day would ensure their handwriting—and by extension, their intellect—would improve throughout the coming year.
Legend and Belief: The Fire Festival connection
Kakizome is deeply intertwined with Japanese folklore and the Shinto concept of purification. The ritual does not end when the ink dries. According to tradition, the calligraphy sheets written on January 2nd are kept until mid-January, usually around the 14th or 15th, to be burned in a fire festival known as Sagicho or Dondo-yaki.
The legend associated with this burning ritual is visually striking. Villagers gather to burn New Year’s decorations (like shimekazari) and the Kakizome papers in a bonfire. It is said that if the burning paper catches the thermal updrafts and flies high into the sky, the writer’s skill in calligraphy will improve drastically. This connection between the physical act of writing and the elemental force of fire highlights the Japanese belief in the transience of material things and the permanence of the spirit.
Furthermore, many practitioners offer their writing to Tenjin, the deity of scholarship derived from the spirit of Sugawara no Michizane, a historical poet and politician deified in the 10th century. By dedicating the first writing to Tenjin, students pray for academic success and wisdom.
Modern Culture: Budokan and Contemporary Resolutions
Today, Kakizome remains a beloved fixture in Japanese culture, bridging the gap between the ancient and the modern. While the daily use of brush and ink has been largely replaced by smartphones and keyboards, the New Year provides a nostalgic return to analog roots.
In modern Japan, Kakizome is a mandatory winter vacation assignment for almost all elementary and junior high school students. They gather in gymnasiums or classrooms, kneeling on the floor in rows, to write auspicious four-character idioms (yojijukugo) such as “Eternal Peace” (Eien no Heiwa) or “Realizing Dreams” (Yume Jitsugen).
The most spectacular display of modern Kakizome occurs annually at the Nippon Budokan in Tokyo. Thousands of participants, ranging from young children to elderly masters, gather in the massive arena to write simultaneously. The silence of thousands of people concentrating on the flow of ink, followed by the rustling of paper, creates an atmosphere of profound collective focus that is rare in our distracted digital age.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Ink
If you find yourself in Japan during the New Year (Oshogatsu), you do not need to be a master calligrapher to appreciate or participate in Kakizome.
- Visit Major Shrines: Places like Meiji Jingu in Tokyo or Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto often display prize-winning calligraphy works along their corridors during January. It is a visual feast of typography and expression.
- Try a Workshop: Many cultural centers and hotels offer “Calligraphy Experience” workshops for tourists in January. You will learn how to grind the ink stick (sumi) against the inkstone (suzuri)—a meditative process that releases the characteristic fragrance—and how to hold the brush (fude).
- Buy the Supplies: Visit a traditional stationery store like Kyukyodo in Ginza or Itoya. Buying a small brush and a bottle of ink makes for a meaningful souvenir. Even without knowing Kanji, you can practice the art of enso (circle painting) to clear your mind.
- Witness Dondo-yaki: To see the burning of the calligraphy, visit a local shrine around January 15th (Coming of Age Day weekend). The bonfire festivals are open to the public and offer a glimpse into the community spirit of rural and suburban Japan.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical underpinnings of Japanese rituals and the spiritual significance of words (Kotodama), the following texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While primarily a creation myth and historical record, it establishes the importance of courtly rituals and the recording of history, which evolved into the reverence for writing seen in Kakizome.
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): Written by Murasaki Shikibu in the Heian period, this classic literature offers a glimpse into the aristocratic life where poetry and handwriting were paramount social skills.
- Sugawara no Michizane Biographies: Various historical texts detailing the life of the scholar who became the patron god of calligraphy, essential for understanding the religious aspect of the tradition.
The scent of fresh ink on January 2nd is a reminder that every year is a blank page. Whether you write a complex Kanji or a simple line, the act of Kakizome invites you to leave a mark of intention on the world.