Toso Herbs (Tososan): Unlocking the Health Secrets of Japanese New Year Sake
If you find yourself in Japan during the first few days of January, you will undoubtedly witness the country shutting down to celebrate Oshogatsu (New Year). While tourists are often familiar with the ringing of temple bells and the eating of osechi ryori (traditional feast boxes), fewer know about the medicinal beverage that starts the feast: O-toso.
At the heart of this ceremonial spiced sake is a mixture of herbs known as Tososan. Far more than just a flavoring agent, Tososan is rooted in ancient Traditional Chinese Medicine, designed to ward off winter ailments and grant longevity. In this guide, we explore the efficacy of these herbs, the legends behind them, and how travelers can experience this healthy tradition.
The Origins of Tososan
The custom of drinking spiced wine to celebrate the New Year originated in Tang Dynasty China and was introduced to Japan during the Heian Period (794–1185). Initially, it was a ritual reserved exclusively for the Imperial Court in Kyoto. Emperor Saga is often credited with formally adopting the ceremony in the early 9th century.
Over the centuries, the practice trickled down from the aristocracy to the samurai class, and by the Edo Period (1603–1868), it had become a common household tradition. The mixture itself, called Tososan, is a sachet of five to ten different medicinal herbs soaked in sake and mirin (sweet rice wine). Historically, doctors would prescribe this blend to families to ensure their health for the coming year, highlighting the blurred line between food, ritual, and medicine in traditional Japanese culture.
The Efficacy of Toso Herbs
The topic of “Tososan no Kounou” (The Efficacy of Toso Herbs) is fascinating because the ingredients are genuine pharmacopeia used in Kampo (Japanese herbal medicine). While recipes vary by region and pharmacy, the standard blend usually includes:
- Nikkei (Cinnamon): Known for warming the body, improving circulation, and aiding digestion.
- Sansho (Japanese Pepper): Used to support stomach health and detoxify the body.
- Byakujutsu (Atractylodes): A herb believed to strengthen the spleen and remove dampness from the body.
- Kikyo (Platycodon): Often used to soothe the throat and lungs, crucial during the dry Japanese winter.
- Bofu (Siler Root): A prophylactic herb used to prevent colds and fevers.
Collectively, these ingredients are designed to boost the immune system during the coldest time of the year. Drinking O-toso is essentially a ritualized consumption of a preventative cold medicine, ensuring the family starts the year in peak physical condition.
The Legend: Slaughtering Evil Spirits
The name Toso (屠蘇) is derived from two kanji characters that hint at its mythical power. There are several interpretations of the name, but the most dramatic legend involves the crushing of evil.
- To (屠): To slaughter or massacre.
- So (蘇): Evil spirits (or distinctively, a type of demon that brings illness).
Thus, O-toso literally means “Slaughtering the Evil Spirits.” Another interpretation suggests the second character refers to the human soul, changing the meaning to “Reviving the Soul.”
Folklore suggests that the specific formulation was created by the famous Chinese physician Hua Tuo. Legend holds that one person drinking this elixir protects the whole family from illness, and if the whole family drinks it, the village is protected. It is a symbolic shield against the misfortunes and sicknesses that might plague a household in the coming year.
Modern Culture and Rituals
Today, the drinking of O-toso is a quiet, family-centric affair held on the morning of January 1st. The mixture is usually prepared on New Year’s Eve by soaking the herbal sachet in a mixture of sake and mirin.
The drinking ritual is unique because it reverses the standard Japanese hierarchy of age. Usually, elders are served first. However, with O-toso, the youngest family member drinks first, and the cup is passed up to the eldest. The symbolic reasoning is that the vitality of the young is passed on to the older generation, effectively allowing the elders to absorb the youth’s energy (or to impart wisdom to the young, depending on the interpretation).
The drink is served in a special lacquered set consisting of three stacking cups (sakazuki) and a teapot. Each family member takes three sips from the cups, wishing for health and longevity.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are visiting Japan around the New Year, you can experience the efficacy of Tososan yourself:
- Buy the Sachets: You can find Tososan sachets (often labeled as 屠蘇散) at almost any Japanese drugstore or supermarket in December. They are inexpensive and make excellent, lightweight souvenirs.
- Temple Visits: Some Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples offer O-toso to visitors during Hatsumode (the first shrine visit of the year). Look for stations serving small cups of sake.
- Ryokan Stays: If you stay at a traditional Ryokan (inn) on New Year’s Eve, O-toso will almost certainly be part of your breakfast meal on January 1st.
How to Make It at Home: Simply buy a sachet, soak it in 300ml of high-quality mirin (or a mix of sake and mirin) for 7-8 hours. Remove the sachet before serving. It has a sweet, medicinal, and spicy flavor akin to a non-heated mulled wine.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical intersection of sake and ritual in Japan, the following texts provide deep insights:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While it predates the specific Toso ritual, it details the ancient significance of sake brewing in Shinto rites.
- Engishiki (Procedures of the Engi Era): This 10th-century text records detailed court rituals, including medicinal recipes and banquet protocols of the Heian period.
- Honzokomoku (Compendium of Materia Medica): For a deeper understanding of the specific herbs like cinnamon and atractylodes used in Tososan.