The Cry of “Oni wa Soto!”: Understanding Japan’s Setsubun Festival
If you find yourself wandering the streets of Japan in early February, you might witness a peculiar and energetic spectacle. From household living rooms to the grounds of ancient Buddhist temples, the air is filled with the rhythmic shout: “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (“Demons out! Luck in!”).
This cry is the heartbeat of Setsubun, a traditional festival that marks the changing of the seasons. While it may look like mere fun and games involving roasted soybeans and colorful masks, the ritual is deeply rooted in Japanese spiritual history, designed to purge the stagnation of winter and welcome the vitality of spring.
The Origins of the Spirit Purge
Setsubun literally translates to “seasonal division.” While the term originally referred to the day preceding any change of season, it has evolved in modern Japan to refer specifically to the day before the beginning of spring (Risshun) in the old lunar calendar. This usually falls on February 3rd or 4th.
Historically, the transition between seasons was viewed as a vulnerable time when the spirit world and the human world drew close. In ancient agrarian societies, these transitional periods were believed to be fraught with danger; evil spirits, or Oni, could easily slip through the cracks to bring disease, famine, and bad luck.
The rituals of Setsubun trace their lineage back to the Heian Period (794–1185) and are heavily influenced by a Chinese custom called Tsuina, a ceremony performed on New Year’s Eve to drive away pestilence. Over centuries, the Japanese court adopted and adapted these rites, transforming a solemn exorcism into the lively community festival seen today.
The Legend of the Bean and the Demon
Why do the Japanese throw beans to silence the cry of the Oni? The practice is known as Mamemaki (bean scattering). According to folklore, an evil spirit once terrorized the populace, and a deity instructed the people to throw roasted soybeans at the monster to blind it.
The linguistic punning characteristic of the Japanese language plays a massive role here. The word for bean is mame (豆). However, the word mametsu (魔滅) can be interpreted as “destroying evil.” Furthermore, mame can also imply health and robustness. Thus, by throwing mame, one is literally hurling “evil-destroying energy” at the demons.
The Oni themselves are iconic figures in Japanese folklore. Often depicted with red or blue skin, wild hair, horns, and tiger-skin loincloths, they represent not just physical monsters, but abstract concepts of misfortune, sickness, and negative human emotions like anger and greed. The cry of “Oni wa soto” is an externalization of the desire to purge these negativities from one’s life.
Modern Culture: Masks, Sushi, and Shrines
Today, Setsubun is a beloved cultural event, particularly for families. The solemnity of ancient exorcisms has given way to a more playful atmosphere, though the intent of inviting good fortune remains serious.
Household Rituals
In homes across Japan, the father often dons a plastic Oni mask—available at any convenience store during the season—and plays the role of the demon. The children, armed with roasted soybeans called fuku-mame (fortune beans), chase him out the door while shouting the famous chant. Once the “demon” is expelled, the door is slammed shut to keep evil out.
The Lucky Direction Roll
Another modern tradition that has exploded in popularity is eating Ehomaki. This is a thick, uncut sushi roll containing seven ingredients (representing the Seven Lucky Gods). One must eat the entire roll in silence while facing the year’s “lucky direction” (determined by the zodiac). Breaking silence or the roll is said to break the luck.
Temple Spectacles
For travelers, the best way to experience the “Cry of Oni Out” is at a major temple. Famous sites like Senso-ji in Tokyo or Naritasan Shinsho-ji in Chiba host massive events where sumo wrestlers and celebrities throw packets of beans and money to crowds of thousands. It is a chaotic, joyous scramble for luck.
Traveler’s Tips for Setsubun
If you plan to participate in this unique cultural exorcism, keep these tips in mind:
- Dates: Setsubun is almost always on February 3rd, though it can occasionally shift to the 2nd or 4th. Check the calendar before you travel.
- Etiquette: If you attend a temple bean-throwing event, bring a bag to catch beans. It can get crowded and physical, so dress comfortably. If you catch a packet, consider it a lucky charm.
- Eating the Beans: It is customary to eat the number of roasted soybeans corresponding to your age (plus one more for the coming year) to ensure good health.
- Buying Supplies: You can find Oni masks and beans at any konbini (convenience store) starting in late January. They make excellent, lightweight souvenirs.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deeper mythological context of Oni and purification rituals, the following texts offer foundational knowledge:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While not about Setsubun specifically, this 8th-century text establishes the nature of Japanese spirits (kami) and the concept of purification (harae).
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Contains early references to court rituals that evolved into modern festivals.
- Japanese Demon Lore: Oni from Ancient Times to the Present by Noriko T. Reider: An excellent academic look at the evolution of the Oni figure in culture.