Ring the Bell of Dragon God: Japan’s Legend of Love
High atop a hill overlooking the shimmering Sagami Bay, a clear chime rings out against the sound of crashing waves. This is the sound of the Ryuren no Kane, or the Bell of the Dragon’s Love—often referred to by travelers as the Bell of Dragon God. Located on the scenic island of Enoshima in Kanagawa Prefecture, this spot has become a pilgrimage site for couples seeking eternal romance and travelers fascinated by Japanese mythology.
While Shinto shrines across Japan are often dedicated to Ryujin (the Dragon God), the specific bell on Enoshima weaves a unique tapestry of folklore, romance, and spiritual history. In this guide, we explore the enchanting story behind the bell and how to experience this magical destination yourself.
The Origins of the Bell
Enoshima Island has long been considered a power spot in Japanese spirituality, historically dedicated to the worship of water deities. The Bell of the Dragon God stands within the Koibito no Seichi (Lover’s Sanctuary) area, situated on the hill of Enoshima Iwaya.
Constructed in 1996 to honor the local legend of the dragon and the goddess, the bell serves as a modern monument rooted in ancient tradition. It faces the open ocean, offering a breathtaking view that symbolizes the vastness of the dragon’s domain. Unlike the solemn silence of many temple grounds, the area around the bell is alive with the energy of visitors and the rhythmic tolling of the brass bell, signaling prayers for lasting unions.
The Legend: The Five-Headed Dragon and the Goddess
The cultural significance of the Bell of Dragon God is derived from the Enoshima Engi, a history of the island’s origins.
According to the legend, the area around Kamakura was once terrorized by a fearsome, five-headed dragon named Gozuryu. This dragon caused storms, floods, and landslides, tormenting the villagers for centuries. However, the heavens took pity on the people. In a dramatic display, the clouds parted, and a beautiful maiden descended—this was Benzaiten, the goddess of music, arts, and water.
Before she touched the ocean, an island (Enoshima) rose from the depths to greet her. Captivated by her ethereal beauty, the wicked dragon fell instantly in love. He approached Benzaiten and asked for her hand in marriage. The goddess, however, rejected him, citing his wicked deeds and the suffering he had caused the villagers.
Ashamed and determined to win her heart, the dragon vowed to change. He ceased his destructive behavior, protected the villagers, and became a benevolent guardian deity. Moved by his transformation and sincerity, Benzaiten eventually accepted his love. The Bell of Dragon God was erected to commemorate this union, symbolizing that love has the power to redeem even the fiercest of hearts.
Modern Culture: Locking in Love
Today, the legend has evolved into a popular romantic ritual. It is said that if a couple rings the bell together and writes their names on a padlock (known as Ema in a broader sense, though here they function like European “love locks”), their love will last forever.
The Ritual
Upon arriving at the bell, couples stand together holding the rope. They must ring the bell once, in unison, looking out toward the sea. Afterward, they attach a padlock to the surrounding wire fence.
This practice has turned the fences surrounding the bell into a metallic mosaic of gold, pink, and silver locks, each bearing the names of lovers from around the world. Even for solo travelers, the site offers a profound sense of peace and a connection to the reformed Dragon God, who is now worshipped as a bringer of good fortune and safety.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting the Bell of Dragon God requires a bit of planning to make the most of the experience.
- Access: Enoshima is easily accessible from Tokyo via the Odakyu Line (Romancecar) to Katase-Enoshima Station, or the vintage Enoden tram line to Enoshima Station. From the mainland, you will cross the bridge and hike up the island’s many stairs (or take the “Escar” escalators for a fee).
- Timing: The most magical time to visit is just before sunset. On clear days, you can see Mount Fuji silhouetted against the orange sky across the bay, creating a perfect backdrop for the ringing of the bell.
- The Padlocks: You can purchase love padlocks at shops near the entrance of the park or at the top of the hill. Bringing your own is also acceptable, but buying one locally supports the preservation of the site.
- Attire: Wear comfortable walking shoes. Enoshima involves a significant amount of walking, steep stairs, and hiking trails, especially if you plan to visit the Iwaya Caves further down the path.
Conclusion
The Bell of Dragon God is more than just a photo opportunity; it is a celebration of transformation and devotion. Whether you are ringing the bell with a partner or simply admiring the view where a dragon once courted a goddess, the echo of the chime serves as a reminder of the enduring power of Japanese folklore.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythological roots of Japanese deities and dragons, the following texts provide essential historical context:
- Enoshima Engi: The specific scroll detailing the history of Enoshima and the legend of Gozuryu and Benzaiten.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the foundational myths of Japanese gods, including early references to sea deities and dragons (Ryujin).
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Complementary to the Kojiki, offering alternative versions of myths involving the Dragon Palace (Ryugu-jo) and water worship.