Unveiling Good Old Japan: A Journey into Furuki Yoki Nihon
In the neon glow of Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing or the futuristic bustle of Osaka, it is easy to see Japan solely as a titan of technology and modernity. However, beneath the shinkansen tracks and skyscrapers lies a sentiment deeply cherished by the locals: Furuki Yoki Nihon, or “Good Old Japan.” This phrase captures a profound nostalgia for a time when life moved slower, community bonds were tighter, and the connection to nature was unbroken. For travelers, finding Good Old Japan is not just about visiting a location; it is about discovering the enduring soul of a nation.
The Origins of Nostalgia
The concept of Furuki Yoki Nihon is not tied to a single specific date, though it often evokes the imagery of the Edo period (1603–1867) or the mid-20th century Showa era (1926–1989).
Culturally, this longing stems from the rapid industrialization that transformed Japan. As the country modernized, the idyllic scenery of the satoyama—the border zone between mountain foothills and arable flat land—began to disappear. These landscapes represented a sustainable harmony between humans and nature. The philosophy behind this appreciation is rooted in wabi-sabi, the acceptance of transience and imperfection, and mono no aware, a sensitivity to ephemera. “Good Old Japan” celebrates the wooden architecture that ages gracefully, the seasonal festivals that bind villages together, and the quiet dignity of craftsmanship that refuses to cut corners for speed.
Legend: The Land of Reed Plains
To understand the spiritual foundation of this nostalgia, one must look further back than the samurai eras, deep into the mythology of Japan’s creation. The reverence for the land that characterizes Furuki Yoki Nihon is echoed in the ancient myths of the Toyo-ashihara-no-mizuho-no-kuni, or the “Land of Abundant Reed Plains and Rice Fields.”
According to ancient chronicles, the sun goddess Amaterasu sent her grandson, Ninigi-no-Mikoto, down from the High Plain of Heaven to rule the earth. He brought with him the Three Sacred Treasures, but more importantly, he brought the divine order of agriculture. This legend established rice cultivation not merely as a source of food, but as a sacred duty that harmonized the people with the kami (gods) of the land.
This mythological connection suggests that the “Good Old Japan” people long for is a spiritual echo of this divine agrarian beginning—a time when the rhythm of life was dictated by the seasons and the will of the kami rather than the clock and the train schedule.
Modern Culture: The Showa Retro Boom
Today, Furuki Yoki Nihon is experiencing a massive revival through the “Showa Retro” boom. Young Japanese people, who never lived through the post-war era, are flocking to kissaten (old-school coffee shops) with red velvet seats and stained glass lamps. There is a renewed appreciation for analog experiences: film photography, vinyl records, and handwritten letters.
Pop culture plays a significant role in keeping this flame alive. The films of Studio Ghibli, particularly My Neighbor Totoro, perfectly encapsulate the aesthetic of Good Old Japan—wooden schoolhouses, lush forests inhabited by spirits, and neighbors helping neighbors. Even in modern architecture, there is a shift toward using cedar and paper, attempting to reintegrate the warmth of the past into the sterility of the present.
Traveler’s Tips: Where to Find the Past
If you wish to step out of the time machine and experience Furuki Yoki Nihon yourself, you must leave the major metropolises behind.
1. Walk the Nakasendo Trail
Connect with history by walking a portion of the Nakasendo, the ancient highway connecting Kyoto and Tokyo. The section between Tsumago and Magome in the Kiso Valley is impeccably preserved. Cars are prohibited on the main street, power lines are hidden, and the wooden inns look exactly as they did in the 18th century.
2. Stay in a Kominka
Instead of a standard hotel, book a stay in a renovated kominka (traditional farmhouse). Areas like Shirakawa-go (famous for thatched roofs) or the Iya Valley offer accommodations where you can sit around an irori (sunken hearth) and experience the slow life.
3. Visit Onomichi
For a taste of the Showa era, the hillside town of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture offers narrow, winding alleyways, ancient temples, and a distinct lack of heavy urban development. It feels like a movie set from the 1950s.
4. Cultural Etiquette
When exploring these preserved areas, respect is paramount.
- Silence is Golden: Keep your voice low in traditional streets.
- Photography: Always ask permission before photographing locals or private homes.
- Support Local: Buy handmade crafts from local artisans rather than mass-produced souvenirs to help keep traditional skills alive.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the historical and mythological roots of Japanese culture, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle (c. 712 AD), detailing the myths of the kami and the formation of the archipelago.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text provides a more historical (though still mythological) account of the imperial lineage.
- The Book of Tea by Okakura Kakuzo: A classic English text explaining the Japanese aesthetic of simplicity and harmony.
- Lost Japan by Alex Kerr: A contemporary look at the fading beauty of traditional Japan and the struggle to preserve it.