Japanese Ink: The Art of Sumi and Fountain Pens
There is a specific, grounding scent that permeates the air of a traditional Japanese study—a mix of pine soot and incense. It is the scent of Sumi, the solid ink sticks used for centuries in Shodo (calligraphy). Yet, walk into a modern stationery store in Tokyo today, and you will find walls lined with thousands of glass bottles containing vibrant liquids in every shade imaginable. This is the duality of Japan’s ink culture: a deep reverence for the monochromatic tradition of the past, and a fervent obsession with the colorful expression of the present.
From the meditative grinding of an ink stick to the satisfying flow of a high-end fountain pen, Japan has turned writing fluids into an art form. For the cultural traveler, understanding this evolution offers a fascinating glimpse into the Japanese soul, where the tools of communication are as important as the words themselves.
Origins: The Four Treasures of the Study
The history of ink in Japan is inextricably linked to the arrival of Buddhism and the Chinese writing system. While exact dates are debated, it is generally accepted that ink-making techniques arrived from China during the Nara Period (710–794 AD). Along with the brush, paper, and inkstone, ink is considered one of the “Four Treasures of the Study.”
Traditional Sumi is not a liquid in its dormant state. It is a solid stick composed of soot (derived from burning vegetable oils or pine wood) and animal glue (nikawa), often scented with musk or cloves. The city of Nara, the ancient capital, remains the heart of this craft, producing over 90% of Japan’s solid ink today. The process of making high-quality Sumi is arduous, requiring drying times that can span years to prevent the sticks from cracking. The resulting black is not merely a color; in the eyes of a master calligrapher, it possesses “five colors” or infinite shades of gray, capable of expressing depth, light, and spirit.
Legend: Kobo Daishi and the Spirit of the Brush
No discussion of Japanese writing is complete without mentioning Kukai, posthumously known as Kobo Daishi (774–835 AD). A Buddhist monk, scholar, and artist, he is revered as one of the greatest calligraphers in Japanese history. A famous Japanese proverb states, “Kobo does not choose his brush” (Kobo fude wo erabazu), implying a master can write perfectly with any tool.
However, legends suggest Kobo Daishi cared deeply about his tools, including his ink. It is said that he discovered new methods of brush and ink management during his travels in Tang dynasty China, bringing them back to revolutionize Japanese script. In esoteric Buddhism, the act of grinding ink is meditative. The circular motion required to turn the solid stick into liquid on the inkstone (suzuri) is believed to clear the mind, allowing the spirit to flow through the arm and onto the paper. The ink is viewed not just as a medium, but as a vessel for the writer’s Qi (energy).
Modern Culture: The “Ink Swamp”
While Shodo remains a respected traditional art, the 21st century has seen a unique explosion of interest in fountain pens and bottled inks, known colloquially in Japan as Inku-numa or the “Ink Swamp.” The term suggests that once you dip your toe into the hobby, the depth and beauty will pull you in so deep you cannot escape.
This modern revival bridges the gap between the ancient appreciation for craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics. Major Japanese stationery brands like Pilot, Sailor, and Platinum have developed inks that pay homage to Japanese nature and culture. For example, the Iroshizuku line features colors named after Japanese landscapes, such as “Moonlight,” “Bamboo Forest,” and “Winter Persimmon.”
Crucially, travelers must note the distinction: Traditional Sumi (soot and glue) must never be put into a fountain pen, as the particles will clog and destroy the mechanism. Modern fountain pen inks are dye-based liquids designed for flow. However, the cultural obsession with shading, sheen, and the “feeling” of writing is a direct spiritual successor to the calligrapher’s appreciation of Sumi.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Ink in Japan
For those wishing to dive into the world of Japanese ink, here are essential stops:
- Nara City: Visit the Kobaien ink workshop. Established in 1577, it is one of the oldest ink makers in Japan. You can witness the traditional process of kneading and drying soot sticks and purchase Sumi that smells of ancient history.
- Tokyo (Ginza): Visit G. Itoya, a multi-story stationery department store. An entire floor is often dedicated to fine writing instruments, where you can test hundreds of fountain pen inks.
- Tokyo (Tennozu Isle): Visit Pigment Tokyo. This shop is visually stunning, featuring a wall of thousands of pigment jars. They offer workshops on traditional art materials, including Sumi and Japanese brushes.
- Workshops: Look for “Ink Mixing” experiences (such as at Inkstand by Kakimori in Tokyo), where you can blend your own custom-colored fountain pen ink to take home as a personalized souvenir.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the historical context of writing in Japan, the following texts are recommended:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): One of the oldest historical records, detailing the arrival of scribes and literacy from the continent.
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): Contains numerous references to the aesthetics of paper, calligraphy, and the emotional weight of handwritten letters in the Heian court.
- Kukai: Major Works: For insight into the philosophy of Kobo Daishi and the spiritual significance of the written word.