The Art of Kimono Dressing: Mastering Japanese Kitsuke
For many travelers visiting Japan, the silhouette of a kimono against the backdrop of a vermilion shrine or a blooming cherry tree is the ultimate symbol of Japanese aesthetics. However, the kimono is far more than a beautiful robe; it is the physical embodiment of discipline, history, and cultural identity. The act of putting on a kimono is so complex that it has its own name: Kitsuke (着付け).
Unlike Western clothing, which is cut to fit the curves of the body, the kimono is a flat, T-shaped garment. The beauty of Kitsuke lies in the technique of wrapping, folding, and tying the fabric to create a cylindrical, uniform shape. In this guide, we peel back the layers of tradition to understand the profound significance of kimono dressing.
The Origins of the Garment
The word “kimono” literally translates to “thing to wear” (ki = wear, mono = thing). However, its history is a long evolution of textile adaptation.
From Undergarment to Outerwear
During the Heian Period (794–1185), the precursor to the modern kimono, known as the kosode, was actually worn as an undergarment beneath multiple layers of heavy silk robes. Aristocratic women would wear the junihitoe (twelve-layer robe), creating complex color combinations to reflect the seasons.
By the Edo Period (1603–1867), the kosode had evolved into the visible outerwear we recognize today. This era saw the rise of the merchant class, who, forbidden from flaunting wealth through status, poured their fortunes into intricate textiles. During this time, the obi (sash) evolved from a simple cord into the wide, decorative brocade that requires specialized tying skills today.
Legends and Spiritual Threads
Fabric and weaving hold a divine place in Japanese mythology, linking the act of dressing to the gods themselves.
The Weaving Maiden
According to ancient Shinto beliefs, weaving is considered a sacred act. In the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, the oldest chronicles of Japan, there are references to the Sun Goddess Amaterasu overseeing the weaving of divine garments in the Plain of High Heaven. One famous myth details how Amaterasu retreated into a cave, plunging the world into darkness, after her unruly brother Susanoo threw a flayed horse into the sacred weaving hall, startling the weaving maiden.
This connection implies that the creation and wearing of traditional garments are not merely functional but serve as a bridge between the human and the divine. The musubi (knots) used in tying the obi are also believed to hold spiritual power, binding the soul to the body and connecting humans to their ancestors.
Modern Culture: Kitsuke in the 21st Century
Today, the kimono is no longer everyday wear for the vast majority of Japanese people. The complexity of Kitsuke—which can require over a dozen accessories, including padding, cords, and stiffeners—means that many young Japanese people cannot dress themselves without assistance.
The Role of Professionals
Modern Kitsuke has become a formalized art. Professional dressers are hired for pivotal life moments:
- Shichi-Go-San: A festival for children aged 3, 5, and 7.
- Seijin no Hi (Coming of Age Day): When 20-year-olds celebrate adulthood wearing extravagant furisode (long-sleeved kimonos).
- Weddings: Where brides wear the immaculate white shiromuku.
Despite the decline in daily wear, there is a burgeoning “Kimono Renaissance.” Young enthusiasts are mixing vintage silk kimonos with boots, hats, and Western accessories, breathing new life into the tradition and challenging the strict rules of the “Kimono Police” (traditionalists who criticize improper dressing).
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Kitsuke
If you are planning a trip to Japan, experiencing Kitsuke is highly recommended. Whether strolling through Kyoto’s Gion district or Tokyo’s Asakusa, here is what you need to know.
1. The Golden Rule: Left Over Right
This is the single most important rule of wearing a kimono. You must wrap the left panel over the right panel.
- Left over Right: For the living.
- Right over Left: Reserved exclusively for the deceased at funerals. Making this mistake can be shocking to locals, so always double-check your collar before heading out.
2. Rent, Don’t Buy (at first)
A high-quality silk kimono can cost thousands of dollars. As a traveler, look for “Kimono Rental” shops. These packages usually include the garment, the obi, the zori sandals, and a professional dressing service. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes for a pro to dress you.
3. posture and Movement
The kimono restricts long strides. You must walk with small, sliding steps (pigeon-toed walking is traditionally considered feminine and graceful in a kimono). The obi acts as a corset, naturally straightening your back. Embrace the posture; it is part of the experience.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the history and mythology surrounding Japanese textiles, consider exploring the following texts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For myths regarding Amaterasu and the sacred weaving halls.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For historical context on the introduction of silkworm cultivation and weaving techniques from the continent.
- Dalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. A seminal work on the social history of the garment.
Kitsuke is a window into the Japanese soul—a blend of rigid discipline and breathtaking beauty. By wearing it, you do not just put on a robe; you wrap yourself in centuries of history.