The Elegance of Wagasa: Japan’s Traditional Umbrella Art
There is a specific, hushed beauty to a rainy day in Kyoto. Against the backdrop of dark wooden machiya and grey stone paths, a splash of crimson or indigo blooms like a flower. This is the Wagasa (和傘), the traditional Japanese umbrella. Far more than a mere tool to ward off the rain, the Wagasa is a masterpiece of bamboo and paper, embodying the Japanese aesthetic of functional beauty and the appreciation of fleeting moments.
While the ubiquitous clear plastic umbrella dominates modern Tokyo streets, the Wagasa remains a symbol of elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural depth. In this guide, we open the canopy on the history, legends, and enduring allure of Japan’s most beautiful accessory.
Origins: From Aristocratic Canopy to Artisan Craft
The history of the umbrella in Japan is long and complex. The concept was originally imported from China during the Heian period (794–1185). However, these early iterations, known as Kinugasa, were not for rain but for protection against the sun and evil spirits. They were essentially large canopies held over aristocrats and high-ranking officials, constructed from silk and unable to be closed.
It was not until the Muromachi period (1336–1573) that the technology to open and close the umbrella was developed—a significant innovation that changed Japanese daily life. By the Edo period (1603–1868), the production of Wagasa flourished. Artisans began using strong washi (Japanese paper) oiled with perilla oil or tung oil to make them waterproof.
Creating a single Wagasa is an incredibly labor-intensive process, often involving dozens of specialized steps and taking months to complete. The ribs are carved from a single stalk of bamboo to ensure flexibility and strength, then strung together with intricate thread work that forms a geometric star pattern, known as kagari, visible when looking up from underneath.
Legend and Folklore: The Spirit in the Object
In Japan, it is believed that tools and objects can acquire a spirit (kami) after being used for many years. The Wagasa is no exception. In Japanese folklore, the Karakasa-obake (Tang umbrella ghost) is a famous yōkai—a spirit portrayed as an old umbrella with one eye, a long tongue, and a single leg wearing a wooden geta sandal.
While the Karakasa-obake is often depicted as a mischievous, somewhat comical character in ukiyo-e woodblock prints, its existence speaks to the reverence Japanese culture holds for everyday objects. The umbrella’s circular shape when opened represents the fullness of the moon and protection.
Historically, the color of the umbrella also held meaning. In ancient times, the color purple was reserved for the Emperor and high nobility, a tradition stemming from the symbolism found in ancient chronicles. While the Kojiki does not explicitly describe the manufacturing of paper umbrellas, the divine significance of materials like bamboo and the concept of shielding the sacred are deeply rooted in these foundational texts.
Modern Culture: A Resurgence of Style
Today, the Wagasa is primarily seen in traditional settings. You will find them at tea ceremonies (Nodate), traditional weddings, and Kabuki theater performances. The Janome-gasa (snake-eye umbrella), characterized by a white ring on a dark background, is the most refined style used by geisha and maiko in Gifu and Kyoto.
Despite the dominance of Western umbrellas, there is a growing appreciation for the Nodate-gasa (large outdoor parasols) and smaller sun parasols (Higasa). They are prized not just for their aesthetic, but for the distinct sound rain makes when hitting the oiled paper—a soft, drum-like patter that plastic can never replicate.
Traveler’s Tips: Buying and Caring for Wagasa
If you are visiting Japan and wish to acquire an authentic Wagasa, be prepared to invest in quality. A genuine handmade piece can cost anywhere from ¥15,000 to ¥50,000 ($100 – $350 USD) or more.
Where to Buy
- Gifu City: Known as the heart of umbrella production, Gifu produces the majority of Japan’s traditional umbrellas. The craftsmanship here is designated as a significant intangible cultural asset.
- Kyoto: Look for historic shops like Tsujikura, which has been operating since 1690.
- Kanazawa: Known for robust umbrellas designed to withstand heavy, wet snow.
Care Instructions
Maintaining a Wagasa requires different habits than Western umbrellas:
- Never roll it wet: After use, leave it half-open in a shaded, ventilated area to dry completely.
- Storage: Store it loosely tied. Tightening the fabric too much can damage the lacquer and paper over time.
- Oil Maintenance: The waterproofing oil can dry out over years; some artisans offer re-oiling services to extend the life of the product.
Sources & Further Reading
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For context on the early introduction of continental crafts and the significance of silk canopies (Kinugasa) in imperial ceremonies.
- The Tale of Genji: Provides glimpses into Heian-era court life where the precursors to modern Wagasa were symbols of status.
- Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts: Offers detailed archives on the evolution of bamboo and paper crafts.
The Wagasa is a testament to the Japanese ability to turn a mundane necessity into a work of art. Walking beneath one connects you to centuries of history, artisan dedication, and the spiritual appreciation of nature.