Enryakuji and Saicho: The Spiritual Guardians of Mount Hiei
High above the bustling streets of Kyoto, shrouded in ancient cedar trees and mountain mist, lies one of the most significant spiritual centers in Japanese history: Enryakuji. This sprawling temple complex on Mount Hiei is not merely a tourist destination; it is the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Buddhism and the enduring legacy of its founder, Saicho, posthumously known as Dengyo Daishi. For over 1,200 years, this sacred mountain has watched over the old capital, blending history, nature, and profound mysticism.
Origins: The Vision of Dengyo Daishi
The history of Enryakuji is inextricably linked to the life of Saicho (767–822). Born in the nearby Omi province, Saicho entered the priesthood at a young age but grew disillusioned with the political corruption and worldliness of the Buddhist sects in Nara. Seeking a return to ascetic practice and spiritual purity, he retreated to the solitude of Mount Hiei.
In 788, Saicho built a small hermitage known as Ichijo-shikan-in, which would eventually grow into the massive Kompon Chudo, the main hall of the Enryakuji complex. Saicho traveled to Tang Dynasty China in 804 to study Tiantai Buddhism. Upon his return, he founded the Japanese Tendai sect. His teachings emphasized that all beings possess the Buddha nature and can attain enlightenment—a revolutionary concept that democratized Buddhism in Japan.
After his death, Emperor Seiwa granted him the title Dengyo Daishi (Great Master who Transmits the Teachings), cementing his status as one of Japan’s most influential religious figures. The monastery he founded became a training ground for the founders of other major sects, including Pure Land, Zen, and Nichiren Buddhism, earning it the nickname “The Mother of Japanese Buddhism.”
Legend: The Inextinguishable Light and the Demon Gate
Mount Hiei is steep in folklore and spiritual strategy. Geographically, the mountain is located to the northeast of Kyoto. In traditional geomancy (Feng Shui), the northeast is considered the Kimon (Demon Gate), the direction from which evil spirits enter. Consequently, Enryakuji was established as a spiritual fortress to protect the Emperor and the capital from malevolent forces.
The most poignant legend of the temple, however, concerns the Fumetsu no Hoto (The Inextinguishable Dharma Light). Inside the Kompon Chudo hall, three oil lanterns glow in the semi-darkness. It is said that Saicho himself lit this flame over 1,200 years ago. He vowed that the light of the Dharma would never be extinguished. Through centuries of war, including the infamous burning of the temple by warlord Oda Nobunaga in 1571, the monks allegedly protected the flame, transporting it to safety to ensure the line remained unbroken. Today, monks add rapeseed oil to the lanterns daily, maintaining a physical connection to Saicho’s original prayer for universal peace.
Modern Culture: The Marathon Monks
While Enryakuji is a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with historical artifacts, it is far from a stagnant museum. It remains a rigorous training ground. The most famous aspect of its modern culture is the Kaihogyo, or the “circling the mountain” asceticism.
This practice involves walking a route on Mount Hiei for 1,000 days over a seven-year period. The monks who undertake this, known as the “Marathon Monks,” pray at hundreds of shrines and sacred sites along the mountain trails. It is a grueling test of physical and mental endurance aimed at attaining enlightenment in this body. If a monk fails to complete the course once started, tradition formerly dictated that they must take their own life (though this is symbolic today). This extreme dedication continues to fascinate modern society, representing the ultimate triumph of will and faith.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Enryakuji requires some planning due to its vast size and mountain location. The complex is divided into three main areas: Todo (East Pagoda), Saito (West Pagoda), and Yokawa.
- Access: The most scenic route is taking the Eizan Cable Car and Ropeway from the Kyoto side, or the Sakamoto Cable from the Shiga side. Both offer breathtaking views of Lake Biwa and Kyoto City.
- Dress Code: While there is no strict dress code, this is an active monastery. Modest attire and comfortable walking shoes are highly recommended, as the paths can be steep and gravelly.
- Best Time to Visit: Autumn (late October to November) is spectacular as the maples turn vibrant red, contrasting with the dark cedar forests. However, summer offers a cool retreat from the humidity of the city below.
- Silence: When entering the main hall (Kompon Chudo), maintain respectful silence. The atmosphere is thick with incense and centuries of chanting.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the history of Saicho and the spiritual landscape of early Japan, the following texts and records provide essential context:
- Eizan Daishiden: The primary biography of Saicho, detailing his life and the founding of the Tendai sect.
- The Kenkairon: Saicho’s own treatise arguing for the independence of the Tendai ordination platform.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While predating Saicho, this text establishes the spiritual geography and the imperial lineage that Saicho sought to protect.
- Tale of the Heike: Contains references to the warrior monks (sohei) of Mount Hiei, illustrating the temple’s political and military power in later centuries.