Unlocking Japan’s Lucky Directions: A Guide to Hogaku
When planning a trip to Japan, travelers often focus on where to go—Kyoto, Tokyo, or Hokkaido. However, for centuries, the Japanese have been equally concerned with which direction they travel. In traditional Japanese culture, the physical direction you move toward can determine your fortune, health, and success. This concept, known as Hogaku (方位学), or the study of directions, remains a fascinating, invisible layer of Japanese society.
From the placement of shrines to the eating of sushi rolls, let’s explore the intricate world of lucky and unlucky directions.
The Origins: Stars, Earth, and Onmyodo
The roots of Japanese directional geomancy lie in ancient Chinese philosophy, specifically the theories of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements. These concepts crossed the sea to Japan around the 6th and 7th centuries, evolving into a uniquely Japanese esoteric cosmology known as Onmyodo (The Way of Yin and Yang).
During the Heian period (794–1185), Onmyodo became institutionalized. The imperial court employed official diviners, known as Onmyoji, to advise the Emperor on state affairs. Before making a journey, constructing a temple, or even moving a bed, the Onmyoji were consulted to determine the auspiciousness of the direction. If a direction was deemed unlucky for a specific person or time, rituals were performed, or the individual would practice Katatagae (changing direction)—traveling in a different direction first, staying overnight, and then approaching their destination from a safe angle.
The Legend of the Demon Gate
One of the most enduring legends within Hogaku concerns the Kimon (鬼門), or the “Demon Gate.” In traditional geomancy, the Northeast direction is considered the most dangerous. This belief stems from the ancient Chinese zodiac; the Northeast corresponds to the transition between the Ox and the Tiger.
According to folklore, this “Ox-Tiger” (Ushitora) direction is where demons (Oni) enter the human world. This legend has profoundly shaped Japanese iconography. Have you ever noticed that traditional Japanese demons are depicted with the horns of a bull and wearing loincloths made of tiger skin? This is a direct visual representation of the Ushitora direction.
Opposite the Demon Gate, in the Southwest, lies the Ura-Kimon (Back Demon Gate), which is also considered unstable. Historically, monasteries like Enryaku-ji on Mount Hiei were built specifically to the northeast of Kyoto to spiritually guard the capital against the evil energies flowing from the Demon Gate.
Modern Culture: Sushi and Shrines
While few modern Japanese people practice Katatagae before a vacation, the belief in lucky directions is far from dead. It surfaces most visibly during Setsubun, the festival marking the day before spring (usually in early February).
During Setsubun, millions of Japanese people participate in a ritual involving Ehomaki (lucky direction sushi rolls). The custom dictates that one must eat the entire uncut sushi roll in complete silence while facing the Eho (the lucky direction of the year). This specific compass point changes annually based on the zodiac cycle. It is believed that the deity Toshitoku-jin resides in that direction, holding the fortune for the year.
Furthermore, when buying a house or moving apartments, many Japanese people still consult geomancers or check directional calendars to ensure the move won’t bring bad luck to the family head. If a move to an “unlucky” direction is unavoidable, they often visit shrines to undergo a purification ritual known as Hogaku-yoke.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Directional Luck
As a traveler, you can immerse yourself in this cultural nuance without worrying about being cursed. Here is how to engage with the culture of Hogaku:
1. Spot the Missing Corners
Keep an eye on traditional buildings or walls in Kyoto and historic districts. You may notice that the northeast corner of a wall is sometimes indented or “cut off.” This architectural quirk is intentional—by removing the corner, the owner symbolically eliminates the Demon Gate, preventing evil spirits from finding a foothold.
2. Visit Protection Shrines
Certain shrines are famous for Hogaku-yoke (directional protection). Jonangu Shrine in Kyoto is a prime example. It was established to protect the capital from the south. Travelers often visit these shrines to buy omamori (amulets) specifically designed to protect them during travel.
3. Join the Ehomaki Tradition
If you are in Japan in early February, visit a convenience store or department store food hall. You will see advertisements for Ehomaki with a compass pointing to that year’s lucky direction. Buy a roll, find the direction on your phone’s compass app, and make a silent wish while you eat.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical depths of these beliefs, the following texts offer profound insights:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): One of the earliest written records (720 AD), which documents the arrival of calendar-making and divination arts from the continent, laying the groundwork for Onmyodo.
- The Tale of Genji: Written in the Heian period, this classic literature frequently mentions characters practicing Katatagae to avoid unlucky directions, offering a glimpse into how nobility navigated these superstitions.
- Research on Abe no Seimei: Look for works regarding this legendary Onmyoji, who is a central figure in the history of Japanese divination.