Bancho Sarayashiki: The Haunting of the Nine Plates
When travelers imagine Japan, they often visualize cherry blossoms, neon-lit Tokyo streets, or serene temples. However, beneath the beautiful surface of Japanese culture lies a chilling underworld of yurei (ghosts) and kaidan (strange tales). Among the most enduring and terrifying of these legends is Bancho Sarayashiki (The Mansion of the Plates at Bancho), a story of betrayal, murder, and a spirit that cannot find rest.
For the cultural traveler, understanding this tale adds a layer of depth to a visit to Japan, particularly when exploring the historic castles where the echoes of this tragedy are said to linger. Join us as we descend into the dark history of Okiku and the missing tenth plate.
The Origins of a Haunting
Unlike the ancient myths recorded in Japan’s primordial texts, Bancho Sarayashiki is a product of the Edo period (1603–1867), a golden age for ghost stories and theater. While ghost stories have existed in Japan since time immemorial, the specific narrative of the “Plate Mansion” solidified in the public consciousness during the 18th century.
The story is counted as one of Japan’s Nihon San Dai Kaidan (Three Great Ghost Stories), alongside Yotsuya Kaidan and Peony Lantern. Its popularity exploded through adaptations in Bunraku (puppet theater) and Kabuki. The tale exists in several variations, with the two most prominent being the Edo (Tokyo) version and the Banshu (Himeji) version. While the locations differ, the core tragedy remains the same: a servant girl named Okiku, a precious set of ten plates, and a death that leads to a haunting.
The Legend of Okiku
The most famous iteration involves a beautiful servant girl named Okiku who worked for a samurai, often identified as Aoyama Tessan. The Aoyama family possessed a priceless heirloom: a set of ten exquisite Delftware plates.
In the traditional retelling, Aoyama desires Okiku, but she rejects his romantic advances. Enraged and seeking to manipulate her, Aoyama hides one of the ten plates. He then accuses Okiku of losing the precious item—a crime punishable by death for a servant. He offers her a choice: become his mistress, and he will forgive the “crime.”
Okiku, valuing her honor over her life, refuses him again. Furious, Aoyama has her thrown into a well, where she dies. However, death was not the end. Shortly after, the Aoyama household was plagued by a nightly terror. A spectral voice would drift up from the depths of the well, counting the plates:
“One… two… three… four…”
The voice would count slowly to nine, followed by a heart-wrenching shriek or a mournful sob upon realizing the tenth plate was missing. This torment continued night after night, driving the samurai to madness.
Echoes in Modern Culture
The image of the long-haired, pale ghost rising from a well is perhaps the most globally recognized trope of Japanese horror, and it owes everything to Bancho Sarayashiki.
The most famous modern descendant of Okiku is Sadako from Koji Suzuki’s novel Ring and its film adaptation Ringu (remade in the West as The Ring). Sadako’s appearance—white burial kimono, long black hair obscuring the face—and her emergence from a well are direct homages to the Okiku legend.
Beyond horror cinema, the story permeates anime, manga, and traditional theater. It serves as a cultural touchstone for the concept of onryo (vengeful spirit), representing the powerless striking back at the powerful from beyond the grave.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Haunts
For those brave enough to seek out the physical locations associated with this legend, there are two primary sites to visit in Japan.
Okiku’s Well at Himeji Castle
The most popular destination for folklore enthusiasts is Himeji Castle in Hyogo Prefecture. This UNESCO World Heritage site is spectacular in its own right, but tucked away in the Honmaru (main bailey) area lies Okiku-ido (Okiku’s Well).
According to the Himeji version of the legend, Okiku was a servant of the castle lord who was framed for the missing plate by a treacherous retainer. The well is covered with a metal grate today, but looking down into the darkness is an eerie experience.
- Tip: Visit Himeji Castle early in the morning to avoid crowds and experience the quiet atmosphere of the well before the tour groups arrive.
The Grave in Tokyo
For those staying in Tokyo, the legacy of the Edo version of the tale can be found at the Myojin-shita area. However, a specific memorial connects to the ghost story at local temples. It is said that the Aoyama family lived in the Bancho area of Edo (modern-day Chiyoda ward). While the mansion is long gone, the atmosphere of old Tokyo still lingers in nearby historic districts.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese mythology and the context of these legends, consider exploring the following:
- Historical Context: While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki detail the Shinto gods and ancient origins of Japan, tales like Bancho Sarayashiki belong to the later Edo period urban culture.
- Kabuki Plays: Look for translations of Bancho Sarayashiki scripts to see how the story was dramatized for the stage.
- Lafcadio Hearn: Read Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things (1904). While Hearn focuses on various tales, his work is seminal in bringing Japanese ghost stories to the English-speaking world.
Whether you view it as a spooky campfire story or a tragic commentary on the feudal class system, the tale of the nine plates remains a vital thread in the tapestry of Japanese culture.