Kakizome: The Art of Japan’s First New Year Writing
When the chaotic joy of New Year’s Eve settles and the quiet solemnity of Shogatsu (New Year) blankets Japan, a unique cultural ritual takes place on January 2nd. The air in temples, community halls, and homes fills with the distinct, earthy scent of sumi (black ink). This is Kakizome (書き初め), literally translating to “First Writing,” a tradition where people pick up the calligraphy brush to set their intentions for the year ahead.
For travelers seeking to understand the Japanese reverence for discipline and art, Kakizome offers a window into the soul of the nation. It is not merely about penmanship; it is a spiritual act of clearing the mind and manifesting one’s future through ink on paper.
The Origins of the First Ink
Like many distinct Japanese arts, Kakizome finds its roots in the aristocracy of the past. The tradition dates back to the Imperial Court during the Heian Period (794–1185). Initially, it was a ritual reserved for the nobility, known as kissho (auspicious writing), where poetry and auspicious characters were written on the morning of the second day of the year.
However, it was during the Edo Period (1603–1867) that Kakizome permeated the wider culture. With the spread of the terakoya (temple schools) education system, literacy rates in Japan soared. The ability to write became a prized skill for the merchant and samurai classes alike. Consequently, the “First Writing” became a household event, serving as a moment for students to demonstrate their progress and for adults to meditate on the year to come.
The Legend of the Flying Paper
The ritual of Kakizome does not end when the ink dries. There is a fascinating folklore attached to the disposal of these calligraphy works, deeply rooted in Shinto beliefs regarding fire and purification.
Traditionally, the Kakizome paper is kept until mid-January, specifically around January 14th or 15th, during the Sagicho festival (also known as Dondo Yaki). This is a fire festival where New Year’s decorations, such as kadomatsu (pine gate decorations) and shimekazari (sacred ropes), are burned to bid farewell to the Toshigami (New Year gods).
The Ascending Spirit
Legend holds that if you throw your Kakizome paper into the bonfire and the heat causes the paper to fly high into the sky, your handwriting ability will improve drastically in the coming year. If the paper falls to the ground, it suggests a need for more diligent practice. This connection between the physical act of burning and spiritual improvement reflects the Japanese concept that fire purifies and carries messages to the divine realm.
Modern Culture: From Homework to the Budokan
In contemporary Japan, Kakizome has evolved but remains ubiquitous. For Japanese schoolchildren, it is a mandatory winter break assignment. Visit any school in mid-January, and you will see the back walls of classrooms plastered with long, vertical strips of paper displaying bold characters like “Hope,” “Eternal Spring,” or “Courage.”
At the professional and competitive level, Kakizome is a spectacle. The most famous public event is arguably the All Japan Kakizome Grand Calligraphy Contest held annually at the Nippon Budokan in Tokyo. Here, thousands of participants—from young children to elderly masters—kneel in rows on the arena floor. In a silence so profound you can hear the brush bristles move, they simultaneously paint their masterpieces. It is a breathtaking display of collective focus and cultural continuity.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Kakizome
While Kakizome is often a private family affair or a school event, travelers can experience this tradition with a bit of planning.
- Visit Tenjin Shrines: Shrines dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane (the deity of scholarship and calligraphy), such as Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto or Yushima Tenjin in Tokyo, often hold public Kakizome events between January 2nd and 5th.
- Observe the Burning: To see the mystical conclusion of the ritual, look for Dondo Yaki fire festivals at major shrines around January 15th.
- Buy the Tools: Even if you miss the event, you can purchase a shuji (calligraphy) set at stores like Loft, Tokyu Hands, or Itoya (in Ginza). Trying your hand at writing your own New Year’s resolution (Hobu) is a wonderful souvenir of experience.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical context of Japanese writing and rituals, the following texts and locations provide deeper insight:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While not referencing Kakizome specifically, this ancient text (720 AD) details the introduction of Chinese characters to Japan, setting the stage for the reverence of the written word.
- Kitano Tenmangu Shrine Archives: Holds records of calligraphy contests dating back centuries.
- The Tale of Genji: Provides atmospheric context for Heian-era courtly rituals involving poetry and writing.