Otoso: The Elixir of New Year’s Longevity
When the clock strikes midnight on December 31st, Japan transforms. The bustle of modern life fades into the solemn and celebratory silence of Oshogatsu (New Year). While many travelers are familiar with the ringing of temple bells or the eating of osechi ryori (traditional festive food), fewer know of the aromatic, medicinal ritual that begins the year: the drinking of Otoso (お屠蘇).
This spiced sake is not merely a beverage; it is a ceremonial prayer for health, designed to purge the body of malice and ensure longevity. For culture seekers and travelers, understanding Otoso offers a deep glimpse into the spiritual and medicinal heritage of Japan.
Origins of the Sacred Draft
The custom of drinking Otoso was imported from China during the Tang Dynasty, likely introduced to Japan by aristocratic envoys or Buddhist monks. By the Heian Period (794–1185), it had become a firmly established court ritual. The Saga Emperor is famously recorded as having adopted the ceremony in the early 9th century, serving the medicinal wine at private receptions to ensure the health of his court.
The name “Otoso” itself is a fascinating study in kanji (Japanese characters). The character So (蘇) means to revive or awaken the soul, while To (屠) means to slaughter or cut down. Together, the name signifies a drink that “slaughters evil spirits” and “revives the soul,” protecting the drinker from illness for the year to come. Over centuries, this practice trickled down from the Imperial Court to the samurai class, and eventually to the general public during the Edo Period.
Legend and Ingredients
According to folklore, Otoso possesses the power to ward off infectious diseases and “evil vapors.” A popular proverb associated with the drink states: “If one person drinks this, their family will not fall ill; if the whole family drinks, the village will remain healthy.”
The magic lies in the tososan, a mixture of five to ten traditional medicinal herbs. While recipes vary, the blend typically includes:
- Cinnamon bark: To improve circulation.
- Sansho (Japanese pepper): For detoxification and digestion.
- Medicinal Kikyo (Platycodon): To protect the lungs.
- Okera (Atractylodes): To strengthen the stomach.
These herbs are soaked overnight in a mixture of sake and mirin (sweet rice wine). Historically, the specific blend was believed to balance the body’s internal energies, aligning the drinker with the renewal of spring.
Modern Culture and Etiquette
Today, Otoso is drunk on the morning of January 1st before the festive osechi meal. The presentation is as important as the drink itself. It is traditionally served from a lacquered pot known as a choshi into three nesting vermillion cups called sakazuki.
The etiquette of drinking Otoso is unique and quite different from typical Japanese drinking customs. Usually, one pours drinks for elders first as a sign of respect. However, with Otoso, the order is reversed: the youngest drinks first, and the eldest drinks last.
This symbolic reversal is rooted in the idea of transferring the vitality and energy of the youth to the older generations. The drinker faces East (to welcome the sun) and takes three sips from the cups, wishing for the health of their family. It is a solemn moment that bonds the family across generations.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Otoso
If you are visiting Japan during the New Year holidays, you might find it difficult to experience Otoso in a standard restaurant, as it is primarily a household tradition. However, there are ways for travelers to participate:
- Stay at a Ryokan: High-end traditional inns (ryokan) often serve Otoso as part of the breakfast service on New Year’s Day. It is the most authentic way to experience the ritual.
- Visit Shinto Shrines: Major shrines, such as Meiji Jingu in Tokyo or Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, often distribute sacred sake to worshippers during the first few days of the year. While sometimes this is regular sacred sake (omiki), some shrines offer the spiced Otoso variety.
- Buy the Herbs: If you want to recreate the taste, visit a Japanese pharmacy or supermarket in late December. Look for Tososan (屠蘇散) packets. You can steep these tea-bag-like sachets in a bottle of good quality sake mixed with a little mirin for 5 to 7 hours.
The taste is distinct—sweeter than regular sake due to the mirin, with a complex, spicy, and medicinal profile reminiscent of vermouth or mulled wine.
Sources & Further Reading
The history of sake and its spiritual significance in Japan is vast. For those interested in the mythological roots of sake brewing, the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) contain the earliest references to sake as a tool for communing with the gods (kammiki), setting the stage for later rituals like Otoso. Additionally, the Engishiki, a 10th-century book of laws and regulations, details the specific court rituals involving medicinal wines that evolved into the modern Otoso ceremony.
- Kojiki (Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain)
- The History of Sake by the National Research Institute of Brewing
- Japanese New Year Traditions by The Japan Society