Okuribi: The Sacred Smoke of Farewell Fire
As the humid heat of the Japanese summer begins to wane in mid-August, a hush falls over the ancient capital of Kyoto. The city, usually bustling with tourists and modern life, turns its gaze toward the surrounding mountains. Darkness descends, and suddenly, giant characters of fire ignite against the black slopes. This is Okuribi (送り火), or the “Farewell Fire,” a profound ritual where the smoke rising to the heavens acts as a guide for ancestral spirits returning to the afterlife.
While fireworks festivals (hanabi) dazzle the eyes with color and noise, Okuribi touches the soul with silence and reverence. It is the culmination of Obon, a time when the boundary between the living and the dead grows thin.
Introduction: The Final Guide Home
In Japanese culture, fire is viewed as a sacred medium of purification and communication. During the Obon season (typically mid-August), families first light Mukaebi (welcoming fires) to invite the spirits of their ancestors back to the earthly realm. For several days, these spirits are believed to reside within the household altars, reuniting with living relatives.
However, the reunion is temporary. On the evening of August 16th, the Okuribi is lit. The rising smoke serves as a spiritual beacon, ensuring that the souls do not lose their way as they journey back to the spiritual world. While small fires are lit in front of homes across Japan, the most iconic manifestation of this tradition is the Gozan no Okuribi (Five Mountain Farewell Bonfires) in Kyoto.
Origins: A Fusion of Faiths
The practice of Okuribi is deeply rooted in a syncretic blend of indigenous Shinto beliefs and Buddhism, which was introduced to Japan in the 6th century. Ancestor worship existed in Japan long before Buddhism, recorded in ancient chronicles, but the specific rituals of Obon and the use of fire to guide spirits became formalized as Buddhist practices spread.
The specific origins of the Kyoto mountain bonfires are shrouded in mystery. Some historical records suggest they began in the Heian period (794–1185), organized by powerful monks to ward off plagues and appease angry spirits. Others trace the tradition to the Muromachi period (1336–1573). Regardless of the exact date, the fires have burned for centuries, surviving wars and modernization to remain a pillar of Kyoto’s cultural identity.
Legend and Symbolism
The most famous of the fires is the Daimonji (大文字), shaped like the character “Dai” (meaning “Great” or “Large”). Legends attribute the calligraphy of this character to Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. It is said that the fires represent the wisdom of the Buddha, burning away earthly passions (represented by the wood) to release the smoke of enlightenment.
There are five specific fires lit in succession on five different mountains:
- Daimonji (The Character ‘Dai’): The first and largest, representing the universe’s elements.
- Myo-Ho (Wondrous Dharma): Two separate characters derived from Nichiren Buddhism.
- Funagata (The Boat Shape): Representing the vessel that ferries souls across the Sanzu River to the afterlife.
- Hidari Daimonji (Left ‘Dai’): A second ‘Great’ character lighting the western sky.
- Toriigata (The Shrine Gate): Shaped like a Shinto Torii, symbolizing the entrance to the sacred realm.
A poignant local belief suggests that if you drink water or sake from a cup that reflects the red light of the Okuribi, you will be protected from illness for the coming year. Furthermore, the smoke itself is considered holy; as it drifts upward, it carries the prayers of the living to the ears of the departed.
Modern Culture: A Sombre Celebration
Today, Okuribi is one of Kyoto’s signature events, drawing thousands of spectators. However, unlike the raucous atmosphere of a summer matsuri (festival), the mood during Okuribi is contemplative.
Modern Japan creates a fascinating juxtaposition during this event. While neon lights glow in the city center, the electric lights on the Kyoto Tower and other landmarks are often dimmed to allow the orange glow of the mountain fires to dominate the night. It marks the psychological end of summer for the locals. Once the smoke clears and the fires turn to ash, the city prepares for the cooler winds of autumn, having fulfilled its duty to the past generations.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing Okuribi
If you plan to witness the Smoke of Farewell Fire, preparation is key. The fires are lit starting at 8:00 PM on August 16th every year (weather permitting).
- Best Vantage Points: The banks of the Kamo River (Kamogawa) offer excellent views of the Daimonji. For a view of the Toriigata, the Arashiyama area is preferable.
- Arrive Early: The riverbanks get incredibly crowded. Arrive by late afternoon to secure a spot.
- Etiquette: Remember that this is a religious event honoring the dead. While taking photos is acceptable, maintain a respectful demeanor. It is not a fireworks display, so loud cheering is generally frowned upon.
- Floating Lanterns: After the fires, head to Arashiyama for the Toro Nagashi, where paper lanterns are floated down the river, creating a beautiful mirroring of the fire in the sky.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical depths of Japanese ancestor worship and fire rituals, the following texts and resources provide context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For early records of indigenous ancestor worship and elemental rituals.
- The Tale of Genji: Provides atmospheric context for the Heian period court culture that birthed these traditions.
- Kyoto City Tourism Association: Provides annual updates on the Gozan no Okuribi schedule and viewing maps.
- Japanese Buddhism: A Cultural History by Yoshiro Tamura: For understanding the integration of Obon into Japanese life.