Warding Off Evil: The Magic of Sardine Heads in Japan
Imagine walking through the historic streets of Kyoto or the back alleys of traditional Tokyo in early February. The air is crisp, hinting at the end of winter, but something else catches your attention—a peculiar decoration hanging above the doorways of houses and shops. It isn’t a lantern or a wreath, but a charred, pungent fish head skewered onto a prickly branch.
This is not a prank or forgotten trash; it is Hiiragi Iwashi (Holly and Sardine), one of Japan’s most fascinating and ancient talismans used to ward off evil spirits. Associated with the Setsubun festival, this custom offers a deep dive into the Japanese psyche regarding superstition, purification, and the changing of seasons.
Origins of the Sacred Stench
The tradition of Hiiragi Iwashi is rooted in the annual observance of Setsubun, which literally means “seasonal division.” Historically, this day marked the eve of spring according to the lunar calendar, a time when the spiritual barrier between the human world and the spirit world was believed to be thinnest. In ancient Japanese cosmology, the changing of seasons was a vulnerable time when Oni (demons or ogres) and malevolent spirits could easily slip into people’s homes to bring sickness and misfortune.
To combat this, the Japanese developed various forms of Yakuyoke (warding off evil). The use of strong-smelling foods and sharp objects acts as a spiritual barrier. While the specific combination of holly and sardine became standard in the Edo period (1603–1867), references to using prickly branches and smelly fish (originally mullet heads) date back to the Heian period (794–1185). The evolution to sardines likely occurred because they were more accessible to the common people and possessed a significantly stronger odor when baked.
The Legend: Why Demons Hate Sardines
The logic behind the Hiiragi Iwashi is wonderfully literal within the context of Japanese folklore. The talisman consists of two distinct parts, each with a tactical function against the Oni.
First, there is the Sardine Head (Iwashi). The head is usually baked or charred until it emits a potent, fishy smoke. According to legend, Oni have sensitive noses. The pungent smell is detestable to them, causing them to recoil and stay away from the entrance of the home. Some interpretations suggest the smell is meant to attract the demon initially, luring them in close, only to be met by the second part of the trap.
Second, there is the Holly Branch (Hiiragi). Japanese holly (Osmanthus heterophyllus) is known for its stiff, serrated leaves with needle-sharp points. If the smell fails to deter the demon, or if the demon is lured in by the scent, the sharp thorns of the holly are meant to poke the Oni in the eyes, blinding them or causing enough pain to send them fleeing back to the spirit world.
The Philosophical Twist
There is also a famous Japanese proverb derived from this custom: “Iwashi no atama mo shinjin kara” (Even a sardine’s head can be a god from faith). This saying suggests that the object itself—a mere fish head—has no inherent power. Rather, it is the faith and belief of the person worshipping it that grants it power. It serves as a humble reminder that the human mind shapes its own reality, a core tenet of many Eastern philosophies.
Modern Culture and Setsubun
In contemporary Japan, Setsubun is celebrated on February 3rd or 4th. While the most famous custom is Mamemaki (throwing roasted soybeans while shouting “Demons out! Luck in!”), the Hiiragi Iwashi remains a steadfast tradition, particularly in the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto, Nara) and parts of the Kanto region.
However, the modernization of housing has threatened this pungent practice. In high-rise apartments and dense urban neighborhoods, hanging a smelly, charred fish head at the front door is often frowned upon due to the odor affecting neighbors. As a result, many modern families opt for paper decorations depicting the sardine and holly, or simply buy the arrangement at a supermarket, keep it inside the genkan (entryway) for a few hours, and then dispose of it.
Despite this, walk through older districts like Gion in Kyoto or Yanaka in Tokyo during early February, and you will still see the real deal—charred eyes and prickly leaves standing guard against invisible monsters.
Traveler’s Tips: Spotting the Sardine
If you are traveling to Japan in late winter, keep your eyes peeled for this unique slice of culture.
- Timing is Everything: The decorations usually go up on Setsubun (Feb 3rd/4th). In some regions, they are taken down the next day, while in others, they remain up until the subsequent rainy season or even year-round as a permanent charm.
- Where to Look: Shrines often sell these talismans. Visit Kasuga Taisha in Nara or older neighborhood shrines in Kyoto. Additionally, look at the entrances of traditional Izakaya (pubs) and Ryokan (inns), which are more likely to keep the tradition alive than modern hotels.
- Etiquette: If you encounter a Hiiragi Iwashi, observe it from a distance. Do not touch it. Aside from being rude to the spirits, the holly thorns are genuinely sharp, and the fish head is likely covered in soot and oil.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical roots of Japanese purification rituals and seasonal folklore, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Tosa Nikki (Tosa Diary): Written in 935 AD by Ki no Tsurayuki, this classical text contains early descriptions of using mullet heads and holly to ward off spirits during the New Year period, the precursor to the modern sardine tradition.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While it does not mention the sardine head specifically, this 8th-century text establishes the foundational mythology of the Oni and the importance of purification rituals (Harae) in Shinto belief.
- Engishiki: A 10th-century book of laws and regulations that details ancient Shinto rites, offering context on how agricultural society viewed the changing seasons and spiritual protection.