Unveiling the Houou no Mai: Japan’s Dance of the Phoenix
In the tapestry of Japanese folklore, few creatures command as much reverence as the Houou, or the Japanese Phoenix. Unlike its Western counterpart, which is famous for rising from the ashes, the Houou is a symbol of imperial virtue, grace, and celestial harmony. While the creature adorns temples and currency, its spirit comes most vividly to life in the Houou no Mai (Dance of the Phoenix). This captivating performance serves as a bridge between the mythological past and the cultural present, offering travelers a glimpse into the spiritual heart of Japan.
The Origins of the Celestial Dance
The concept of the Houou originated in China (known as the Fenghuang) and arrived in Japan during the Asuka and Nara periods (6th–8th centuries). It was quickly adopted by the Imperial Court as a symbol of the Empress and justice.
However, the Houou no Mai as a specific performance has distinct roots in Japanese folk religion. One of the most significant preservation sites for this dance is Hinode Town in Western Tokyo. Here, the dance is not merely entertainment but a solemn ritual designated as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. Originating in the Edo period, specifically around the mid-19th century, this dance was developed as a prayer for rain during severe droughts and to ward off epidemics. Unlike the stiff, courtly dances of the aristocracy, the Houou no Mai blends the elegance of the mythical bird with the desperate, earthy prayers of the farming class.
The Legend of the Houou
To understand the dance, one must understand the creature. According to ancient lore found in texts like the Nihon Shoki, the Houou is a composite beast: it possesses the beak of a rooster, the jaw of a swallow, the neck of a snake, the back of a tortoise, and the tail of a fish. It is said to only descend from the heavens to bless the reign of a virtuous and just ruler.
The Bird of Harmony
In the context of the dance, the legend shifts from imperial validation to agricultural salvation. The Houou represents the balance of yin and yang (In-Yo). When the balance of nature is disrupted—manifesting as drought or plague—the appearance of the Phoenix is required to restore harmony. The dancers, donning elaborate feathers and colors representing the five elements (wood, fire, earth, metal, and water), channel the spirit of the bird to cleanse the land.
Modern Culture and The Spectacle
Today, the Houou no Mai is a rare but breathtaking spectacle. The most accessible place to witness this is at the Kasuga Shrine in Hinode Town, usually performed in late September.
The performance is a visual feast. Dancers wear large, intricate headpieces sculpted to resemble the Phoenix, painted in vibrant gold and vermilion. Attached to their costumes are wings that extend and retract in rhythm with the music. The music itself is a hypnotic blend of fue (flutes) and taiko (drums), creating a soundscape that feels ancient and otherworldly.
Beyond Hinode, the influence of the Houou permeates modern Japanese culture:
- Kanda Matsuri: In downtown Tokyo, the massive Kanda Festival features mikoshi (portable shrines) adorned with the Phoenix, symbolizing the protection of the capital.
- Byodo-in Temple: The Phoenix Hall near Kyoto, immortalized on the 10 yen coin and the 10,000 yen note, showcases the architectural devotion to this bird.
- Pop Culture: From Pokémon (Ho-Oh) to Tezuka Osamu’s manga Phoenix, the creature remains a staple of Japanese creativity.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing
If you plan to witness the authentic Houou no Mai or related festivals, keep these tips in mind to respect the culture and enhance your experience:
- Timing is Key: The full ritual dance in Hinode is not a daily occurrence. It is typically performed annually or bi-annually during the autumn festival (late September). Check the Hinode Town tourism website well in advance.
- Etiquette: This is a Shinto ritual, not just a show. When the dancers are performing before the shrine, maintain respectful silence. Do not cross the roped-off areas.
- Photography: Photography is generally permitted, but flash is often frowned upon as it distracts the performers. Use a fast lens to capture the movement in low light or evening settings.
- Location: Hinode is in the Nishitama District of Tokyo. It is a day trip from central Shinjuku but requires taking the JR Chuo line and then a bus. Plan your transport back, as rural buses stop running early in the evening.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythology and historical records surrounding the Houou and its introduction to Japan, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While it focuses on the gods, it establishes the cosmological framework in which creatures like the Houou exist.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Contains early references to the bird appearing as an omen during the reign of Emperor Tenmu.
- Local Records of Hinode Town: Archives regarding the designation of the dance as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property.