Unveiling the Bando 33 Pilgrimage: Eastern Japan’s Sacred Route
When travelers dream of spiritual Japan, their minds often wander to the 88 Temples of Shikoku or the ancient capital of Kyoto. However, the Kanto region—home to the bustling metropolis of Tokyo—hides a spiritual journey that rivals its western counterparts in history and beauty. This is the Bando 33 Pilgrimage (Bando Sanjusankasho), a circuit of 33 Buddhist temples dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy.
Spanning seven prefectures including Kanagawa, Saitama, Tokyo, Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, and Chiba, this pilgrimage offers a unique lens into the samurai culture of Eastern Japan. It is a journey that takes you from the misty coastlines of Kamakura to the serene mountains of Chichibu, inviting you to step off the beaten path and into a world of ancient devotion.
Origins: The Samurai’s Prayer
The Bando 33 Pilgrimage was established in the early Kamakura period (1185–1333), a pivotal era when political power shifted from the imperial court in Kyoto to the warrior class in the East. It was Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first Shogun of the Kamakura shogunate, who played a crucial role in its foundation.
A deeply religious man, Yoritomo revered the Kannon Bodhisattva. Inspired by the older Saigoku 33 Pilgrimage in the Kansai region, Yoritomo and his successors sought to create a spiritual equivalent in the East (Bando). This was not merely a religious act but a political statement, asserting the cultural and spiritual independence of the new warrior capital in Kamakura. The route was solidified over the centuries, becoming a rite of passage for samurai seeking protection in battle and salvation in the afterlife.
Legend: The 33 Faces of Mercy
At the heart of this pilgrimage is Kannon Bodhisattva (Avalokitesvara), known for infinite compassion. The number 33 is significant in Buddhist sutras, specifically the Lotus Sutra, which states that Kannon can manifest in 33 different forms to save sentient beings from suffering.
Legends abound at every stop along the route. For instance, at Sugimoto-dera (Temple #1 in Kamakura), legend dictates that during a great fire in 1189, the three statues of the Eleven-Headed Kannon walked out of the burning main hall on their own to safety, sheltering behind a cedar tree. This miraculous event earned the temple the name “Sugi-moto” (Under the Cedar).
Another profound legend resides at Oya-ji (Temple #19 in Tochigi), where an ancient stone Buddha is carved directly into a cliff face. Local folklore, interwoven with ancient spirituality, claims the carving was the work of the legendary priest Kobo Daishi, created in a single night to subdue a poisonous serpent plaguing the villagers.
Modern Culture: The Search for Connection
In contemporary Japan, the Bando 33 Pilgrimage has seen a resurgence. It is no longer reserved for the pious or the elderly; today, it attracts history buffs, hikers, and young travelers seeking a digital detox.
The central activity for modern pilgrims is collecting Goshuin—calligraphic red seals and ink stamps given at temples. Pilgrims carry a special book called a Nokyocho. Upon visiting a temple, a monk will hand-write the temple’s name and the deity’s Sanskrit character, stamping it with vermilion seals. This book becomes a beautiful, tangible record of the journey.
Unlike the grueling walking pilgrimages of the past, modern “Bando-meguri” (touring Bando) is often done via train, bus, and car. Tour groups frequently organize bus trips that cover difficult-to-reach mountain temples, making the spiritual heritage accessible to everyone.
Traveler’s Tips
Embarking on the Bando 33 requires some planning, as the temples are spread across a vast geographic area.
- The Route: Unlike Shikoku, the Bando temples are not strictly linear. While there is a numerical order starting from Sugimoto-dera in Kamakura and ending at Nago-dera in Chiba, you can visit them in any order (
randori). - Transportation: While temples in Kamakura and Tokyo (like Asakusa-dera, Temple #13) are easily accessible by train, those in Gunma and Chichibu may require buses or rental cars.
- Attire: You do not need white pilgrim robes, though some choose to wear a wagesa (a simple Buddhist stole). Comfortable hiking shoes are mandatory, especially for mountain temples like Yoshimi Kannon.
- Etiquette: Always bow at the gate, wash your hands at the purification fountain, and offer a prayer (and a small coin) before asking for a Goshuin. Quiet respect is the golden rule.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the historical context of these temples and the era of their founding, the following texts are invaluable:
- Azuma Kagami (Mirror of the East): A historical chronicle of the Kamakura Shogunate, providing context on Minamoto no Yoritomo and the religious climate of the era.
- The Lotus Sutra: To understand the theological basis of the 33 forms of Kannon.
- Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While predating the Bando circuit, this classical text details the introduction of Buddhism to Japan, setting the stage for the ancient foundations of temples like Asakusa-dera (founded in the 7th century) which were later incorporated into the pilgrimage.