The Spirit of Japan: Exploring GeGeGe no Kitaro
When travelers think of Japanese pop culture, they often picture the neon aesthetics of cyberpunk or the adorable charm of kawaii characters like Hello Kitty. However, there is a shadow side to Japanese culture that is equally beloved: the world of the supernatural. Standing at the gateway between the human world and the spirit realm is a one-eyed boy with a yellow-and-black vest. His name is Kitaro, the protagonist of GeGeGe no Kitaro.
For cultural travelers and folklore enthusiasts, understanding GeGeGe no Kitaro is essential. It is not merely a manga or anime franchise; it is the modern vessel that carried ancient Japanese folklore into the 21st century.
The Origins of the Ghost Boy
The story of Kitaro is inextricably linked to the life of his creator, Shigeru Mizuki (1922–2015). Mizuki was a historian, a manga artist, and a veteran who lost his left arm during World War II. His brush with death and his exposure to local legends in Papua New Guinea profoundly influenced his worldview, leading him to believe that the unseen world was just as real as the material one.
Kitaro began his existence in the 1930s in kamishibai (paper theater), a form of street storytelling. Originally called Hakaba Kitaro (Kitaro of the Graveyard), the tone was much darker than the version we know today. The premise is startling: Kitaro is the last survivor of the Ghost Tribe, born from his mother’s grave. He is accompanied by his father, who, refusing to leave his son alone in the world, reincarnated as a walking eyeball (Medama Oyaji).
When Mizuki adapted the story for manga magazines in the 1960s, and subsequently for anime, the title was changed to GeGeGe no Kitaro. The tone shifted from pure horror to a supernatural adventure, where Kitaro strives to maintain peace between humans and yokai (spirits/monsters).
Legend and Lore: The World of Yokai
While Kitaro himself is a fictional creation of the 20th century, the cast of characters surrounding him is drawn from centuries of Japanese history. Kitaro serves as an encyclopedia of yokai.
Yokai are not simply “monsters” in the Western sense. They are a broad class of supernatural entities ranging from malevolent demons to mischievous tricksters and signs of natural phenomena. In the series, Kitaro uses weapons like his remote-controlled geta (wooden sandals) and his chanchanko (spirit vest) to battle dangerous spirits or negotiate with misunderstood ones.
Through the series, Mizuki Shigeru cataloged and visualized hundreds of creatures from oral traditions, giving form to entities that had previously been vague concepts in local villages. Characters like the Ittan-momen (a flying strip of cotton cloth) and the Nurikabe (a plaster wall that blocks travelers) became household names thanks to the manga.
Modern Culture and Legacy
GeGeGe no Kitaro is credited with igniting the “Yokai Boom” in Japan. Before Mizuki’s work, many traditional ghost stories were fading from public consciousness as Japan rapidly modernized. Mizuki saved these stories from extinction by integrating them into pop culture.
Today, the franchise is ubiquitous. There have been an anime adaptation in almost every decade since the 1960s, reflecting the changing anxieties of Japanese society. The series teaches moral lessons about coexistence, environmentalism, and respecting the past. It remains a staple of childhood in Japan, ensuring that the next generation knows to fear—and respect—the shadows.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Yokai Realm
For travelers, the world of GeGeGe no Kitaro offers a tangible destination. The spiritual home of the series is Sakaiminato, a small port city in Tottori Prefecture and the hometown of Shigeru Mizuki.
Mizuki Shigeru Road
This is the main attraction. The street is lined with nearly 180 bronze statues of characters from the series. It is a surreal and delightful walk where you can pose with the Rat Man (Nezumi Otoko) or see a miniature Medama Oyaji taking a bath in a fountain. At night, the street is illuminated with eerie yokai shadow projections.
Mizuki Shigeru Museum
Located at the end of the road, this museum is a must-visit. It explores Mizuki’s life, his war experiences, and his extensive research into spirits from around the world. It offers a profound look at the man behind the monsters.
The Yokai Trains
To get to Sakaiminato, you take the JR Sakai Line from Yonago Station. The trains themselves are wrapped in Kitaro artwork, and even the station announcements are done by the anime voice actors.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the folklore that inspired GeGeGe no Kitaro, consider exploring the following:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While Kitaro is not in these texts, the animistic worldview and many of the proto-spirits that evolved into yokai find their roots in these 8th-century classics.
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: A collection of tales from the late Heian period that features early descriptions of demons and spirits.
- Show: Shigeru Mizuki’s History of Japan: For a look at the author’s historical perspective.
- Gazu Hyakki Yagyo (The Illustrated Night Parade of a Hundred Demons) by Toriyama Sekien: An 18th-century artist who, like Mizuki, cataloged yokai visually.