The Mystical Itako: Japan’s Blind Spirit Mediums
Deep in the northern prefecture of Aomori, amidst the sulfurous fumes and barren landscape of Mount Osore (Osorezan), a haunting tradition survives. Here, visitors seek out the Itako, blind female shamans renowned for their ability to communicate with the dead. For travelers fascinated by the spiritual and the obscure, the Itako represent one of Japan’s most poignant and rapidly disappearing cultural phenomena.
While Japan is often viewed through the lens of neon lights and high-speed trains, the Tōhoku region offers a glimpse into an older, more mystical world. The Itako are the gatekeepers of this realm, bridging the gap between the grieving living and the silent dead through a ritual known as kuchiyose.
The Origins of the Blind Mediums
The history of the Itako is less about sorcery and more about social survival and spiritual devotion. The tradition dates back centuries, primarily emerging in the Edo period. In the harsh climate of northern Japan, blindness was historically a common affliction due to measles and malnutrition. With few economic opportunities available to them, young blind girls were often apprenticed to established shamans.
This was not a path chosen lightly. The apprenticeship involved years of rigorous memorization of sutras, prayers, and chants. The training culminated in a severe initiation rite involving cold-water ablutions and sleepless chanting, designed to induce a trance state. Upon completion, the young woman was “wedded” to a deity, granting her the spiritual authority to act as a vessel for spirits. Thus, a profession born of necessity transformed into a sacred role within the community.
Kuchiyose: The Ritual
The primary function of an Itako is kuchiyose, or spirit channeling. During this ritual, the shaman calls upon a specific spirit—whether an ancestor, a recently deceased relative, or even an unborn child. By chanting sutras and rubbing beads (irataka) together to create a rhythmic, hypnotic sound, the Itako enters a trance. She then speaks in the voice of the deceased, offering comfort, advice, or closure to the bereaved family members sitting before her.
Legend and Beliefs: The Gates of Hell
The geography of Mount Osore plays a crucial role in the Itako legend. In Japanese folklore, Osorezan is considered one of the three most sacred places in Japan and is literally translated as “Dread Mountain.” With its bubbling hot springs, yellow sulfur vents, and the desolate Lake Usori, it perfectly matches the Buddhist description of the entrance to the underworld.
Legend states that the Sanzu River, akin to the River Styx in Greek mythology, flows nearby. Souls of the deceased must cross this river to reach the afterlife. The Itako gather here during the Itako Taisai (Grand Festival) because the veil between the worlds is believed to be thinnest at this location. Scattered across the mountain are piles of pebbles and pinwheels, offerings to Jizo Bosatsu, the guardian deity of children and travelers, placed by parents grieving lost children.
Modern Culture and Preservation
Today, the Itako are a fading presence. Advances in modern medicine have drastically reduced blindness, and the grueling training required to become a shaman appeals to very few in the 21st century. Consequently, the number of authentic Itako has dwindled to a handful, most of whom are elderly.
Despite their dwindling numbers, their cultural significance has only grown. They have been recognized as holders of Intangible Folk Cultural Properties. In modern Japanese culture, they occupy a unique space between superstition and heritage. While skepticism exists, thousands of people still flock to the Osorezan festivals in July and October, forming long lines just for the chance to speak to a lost loved one one last time. It is a testament to the enduring human need for closure.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Osorezan
Visiting Mount Osore to see the Itako is a journey to the edge of Japan, both geographically and spiritually.
- Best Time to Visit: The Itako are generally only present at Osorezan during the major festivals: the Bodai-ji Summer Festival (July 20–24) and the Autumn Festival (early October). Outside these dates, the mountain is still open (May to October), but the shamans may not be there.
- Getting There: The site is located on the Shimokita Peninsula. From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Hachinohe, transfer to a local train to Noheji, then the Ominato Line to Shimokita Station. From there, a bus runs to Osorezan.
- Etiquette: This is a place of deep mourning. Photography of the Itako during rituals is generally forbidden or considered highly rude. Speak quietly and respect the privacy of those consulting the mediums.
- Language Barrier: The Itako speak in a heavy Tōhoku dialect (Tsugaru-ben), which can be difficult even for native Japanese speakers to understand. International travelers may find it hard to participate in a reading without a specialized guide, but the atmosphere alone is worth the trip.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the theological and historical underpinnings of Japanese afterlife beliefs and shamanism, the following texts offer essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While not about Itako specifically, this ancient text establishes the fundamental Shinto concepts of the underworld (Yomi) and the relationship between the living and dead.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Provides further historical context on early Japanese spiritual practices.
- Tōno Monogatari (The Legends of Tōno) by Yanagita Kunio: A seminal collection of Japanese folklore that explores the mystic traditions of the Tōhoku region.
- Catalpa Bow: A Study of Shamanistic Practices in Japan by Carmen Blacker: An excellent academic resource for understanding the specific rituals of the Itako.