The Spirit of Japan: Understanding Reijo
When travelers imagine Japan, they often picture neon-lit Tokyo streets or the serene beauty of Kyoto’s golden pavilions. However, beneath the aesthetic surface lies a profound spiritual geography known as Reijo (霊場). Translating roughly to “sacred ground” or “hallowed place,” a Reijo is not merely a tourist destination; it is a portal where the veil between the human world and the divine is believed to be thinnest.
From the mist-shrouded peaks of Mount Koya to the volcanic wasteland of Mount Osore, Reijo represent the spiritual heart of Japan. These sites serve as the destinations for pilgrims, the training grounds for ascetics, and sanctuaries for those seeking healing. To visit a Reijo is to step into a centuries-old tradition of walking the path toward enlightenment and communion with the spirits.
Origins of the Sacred Ground
The concept of Reijo is deeply rooted in the syncretic nature of Japanese religion, where Shinto (the indigenous way of the gods) and Buddhism intertwined. Historically, the Japanese people practiced Sangaku Shinko—mountain worship. Mountains were viewed not just as physical landmarks, but as the bodies of deities or the abodes of ancestral spirits.
With the arrival of Buddhism in the 6th century, these animistic beliefs merged with complex metaphysical doctrines. Ascetics known as Yamabushi (followers of Shugendo) retreated into these rugged landscapes to perform rigorous training. Over time, specific sites gained reputations for possessing immense spiritual power. These locations became known as Reijo.
The most famous organization of these sites is found in the pilgrimage circuits, such as the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage (33 temples) or the Shikoku Henro (88 temples). Originally, these were perilous journeys undertaken only by the devout prepared to die on the road. Today, they form a spiritual network covering the length of the archipelago.
Legend: The Gateway to the Underworld
While many Reijo are celebrated for their beauty, some are revered for their connection to the afterlife. Perhaps the most haunting legend surrounds Osorezan (Mount Osore) in Aomori Prefecture, considered one of the three great Reijo of Japan.
According to local lore, Osorezan is the entrance to the Buddhist underworld. The geography itself supports the myth: the area is a caldera filled with bubbling sulfuric pits, barren gray landscapes, and a highly acidic lake called Lake Usori. Legend dictates that the souls of the deceased must cross the Sanzu River to reach the afterlife, and Osorezan is the physical manifestation of this limbo.
Twice a year, during the Itako Taisai festival, blind female mediums known as Itako gather at the mountain. It is said that through intense ritual and chanting, they can summon the spirits of the dead, allowing grieving families to communicate with their lost loved ones. This practice highlights the primary function of a Reijo: it is a place where the living and the dead can meet, bound by memory and prayer.
Modern Culture and Power Spots
In contemporary Japan, the solemnity of Reijo has evolved to fit modern spiritual needs. While devout pilgrims in white vestments still walk the trails, they are joined by young travelers seeking “Power Spots” (basyo-no-chikara). This modern buzzword refers to locations thought to revitalize the soul and provide energy—a concept heavily marketed in domestic travel magazines.
Collecting Goshuin has become a major cultural trend associated with Reijo. Goshuin are large, red stamps accompanied by beautiful calligraphy, collected in a special book called a Goshuincho. Unlike a souvenir stamp, these serve as proof of a pilgrim’s visit and are treated with religious respect. For many modern Japanese, visiting a Reijo is less about ascetic training and more about Iyashi (healing)—an escape from the high-pressure environment of corporate life to find solace in the ancient atmosphere of the sacred.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting a Reijo
Visiting a Reijo requires a heightened level of awareness and respect. Here is how to navigate these sacred spaces:
1. Purification
Before entering the main precinct, you will usually find a Temizuya (water pavilion). You must purify yourself by washing your left hand, then your right, rinsing your mouth (without touching the ladle with your lips), and finally washing the handle of the ladle.
2. The Threshold
When passing through a Torii gate (Shinto) or a Sanmon gate (Buddhist), bow once. Avoid walking in the direct center of the path, as the center is traditionally reserved for the deity.
3. Dress and Conduct
While you don’t need to wear pilgrim’s white robes, modest clothing is appreciated. Remove hats when praying. Silence is golden; keep conversations hushed, especially near the main halls or cemeteries.
4. Offering Prayers
At a Buddhist Reijo, the standard is to bow, light incense or a candle, throw a coin into the offering box, place your hands together in prayer (usually without clapping, unlike at Shinto shrines), and bow deeply upon leaving.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the spiritual landscape that gave birth to the concept of Reijo, the following texts and historical records are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) & The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While these texts predate many Buddhist Reijo, they establish the fundamental animistic worldview and the sacred nature of the Japanese landscape.
- The Tale of the Heike: Offers insight into the medieval mindset regarding impermanence and the need for spiritual salvation.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: An excellent English-language resource on the Shikoku pilgrimage.
- Shugendo: The Way of the Mountain Monks by Martin Collcutt: Provides context on the ascetics who established many of these mountain strongholds.