The Shikoku Pilgrimage: Walking the Sacred 88 Temples
For centuries, the island of Shikoku has been synonymous with one of the world’s most profound spiritual journeys: the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, known locally as the Shikoku Henro. Spanning approximately 1,200 kilometers (750 miles) across four prefectures, this circular route is not merely a hiking trail; it is a path of introspection, endurance, and deep historical reverence. Whether you are a devout Buddhist or a secular traveler seeking solitude, the Henro offers a unique window into the soul of Japan.
Origins of the Sacred Path
The pilgrimage is dedicated to Kobo Daishi (774–835 AD), born as Kukai, who is arguably the most influential figure in Japanese Buddhist history. After studying esoteric Buddhism in China, Kukai returned to Japan to establish the Shingon sect. While he famously founded the monastic complex at Mount Koya, he spent much of his youth training in the rugged mountains of his native Shikoku.
The route as we know it today solidified during the Edo Period (1603–1867). Prior to this, ascetic monks used the island’s harsh terrain for spiritual training. Over time, these isolated training grounds were connected to form a mandala-like circuit around the island. The journey represents a path to enlightenment, symbolically divided into four stages corresponding to the four prefectures of Shikoku:
- Tokushima (Awa): The Dojo of Awakening (Temples 1–23)
- Kochi (Tosa): The Dojo of Asceticism (Temples 24–39)
- Ehime (Iyo): The Dojo of Enlightenment (Temples 40–65)
- Kagawa (Sanuki): The Dojo of Nirvana (Temples 66–88)
Legend: Dogyo Ninin
Central to the mystique of the Shikoku Pilgrimage is the concept of Dogyo Ninin, which translates to “Two Traveling Together.” Even if a pilgrim walks alone, it is believed they are never truly solitary; Kobo Daishi is always walking beside them, offering protection and guidance.
One of the most enduring legends associated with the trail is the story of Emon Saburo. According to folklore, Saburo was a wealthy but greedy man who broke the begging bowl of a wandering monk (Kobo Daishi). Shortly after, his eight sons died one by one. Realizing the monk was the great master, Saburo set out to find him and beg for forgiveness. He circled the island twenty times clockwise but failed to catch him. Finally, walking the route in reverse, he collapsed from exhaustion near Temple 12. On his deathbed, Kobo Daishi appeared to absolve him, granting his dying wish to be reborn into a noble family. This legend popularized the gyaku-uchi (reverse course) pilgrimage, which is considered three times more spiritually merit-worthy than the standard clockwise route.
Modern Culture and Osettai
Today, the Henro is a blend of ancient tradition and modern convenience. While “walking pilgrims” (aruki-henro) are the most respected, many modern travelers use cars or tour buses to visit the temples. Regardless of the method of travel, the distinct attire remains common: a white vest (hakui), a conical sedge hat (suge-gasa), and a wooden staff (kongo-zue) representing the physical embodiment of Kobo Daishi.
A defining feature of the pilgrimage culture is Osettai. Locals in Shikoku have a long tradition of supporting pilgrims by offering gifts—ranging from fruits and drinks to money or free lodging. This is not charity in the Western sense; rather, the giver is thanking the pilgrim for taking on the physical burden of the journey on behalf of others. Accepting Osettai graciously is a requirement, as refusing it deprives the giver of merit.
Traveler’s Tips for the Henro
Embarking on the Shikoku 88 requires preparation. Here are essential tips for the modern pilgrim:
1. Timing is Everything
The best seasons to walk are spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November). Shikoku summers are grueling with high humidity and heat, while winters can see snow in the higher mountain passes of Kochi and Ehime.
2. The Nokyocho (Stamp Book)
At every temple, pilgrims visit the stamp office to receive a calligraphy stamp (goshuin) in their nokyocho. This book serves as proof of the pilgrimage and is considered a passport to the Pure Land. Ensure you have plenty of 100-yen coins for temple fees.
3. Accommodation
Pilgrims can stay in Minshuku (family-run guesthouses), Shukubo (temple lodgings), or business hotels. Temple lodgings offer a unique experience, often including vegetarian monastic cuisine (shojin ryori) and morning prayers.
4. Footwear
Do not underestimate the terrain. While much of the route is paved, there are significant mountain trails. High-quality, broken-in walking shoes are mandatory to prevent blisters.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and spiritual roots of Japanese pilgrimage, the following texts and resources provide essential context:
- Nihon Ryoiki (Record of Miraculous Events in Japan): An early collection of Buddhist setsuwa (tales) that illustrates the concept of karma and the miraculous power of Buddhism in early Japan.
- Kobo Daishi’s Writings: Specifically the Sango Shiiki, where Kukai compares Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism.
- Kojiki and Nihon Shoki: While these are primary texts for Shinto mythology and imperial lineage, reading them provides the necessary background to understand the syncretic nature of Japanese religion (Shinbutsu-shugo) found at many Henro sites.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A classic English-language narrative of the journey.