The Art of Junrei: Walking Japan’s Sacred Pilgrimage Routes
In a world obsessed with speed and efficiency, the ancient Japanese tradition of Junrei (巡礼) offers a profound counter-narrative. It is a journey not measured in miles per hour, but in prayers per temple. While the bullet trains whiz past Mt. Fuji, thousands of seekers—clad in white vests and conical hats—walk the winding paths of the countryside, participating in a spiritual circuit that has existed for centuries.
Junrei is the Japanese term for pilgrimage. Unlike the linear pilgrimages of the West, such as the Camino de Santiago which heads toward a single destination, Japanese pilgrimages are often circular. They represent the cycle of death and rebirth, a journey of introspection that ends where it began, yet leaves the traveler forever changed.
The Origins of the Sacred Circuit
The roots of Junrei are deeply intertwined with Shinbutsu-shugo, the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism that defines Japanese spirituality. Early Japanese worship focused on nature—mountains, specifically, were seen as the dwelling places of gods (kami). When Buddhism arrived in the 6th century, these mountain deities were identified as manifestations of Buddhist figures.
The earliest forms of Junrei were ascetic practices undertaken by mountain monks known as Yamabushi. However, by the Heian Period (794–1185), the aristocracy began visiting the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, a route connecting 33 temples dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. By the Edo Period (1603–1868), travel restrictions loosened, and the act of Junrei became a phenomenon for the common people. It was one of the few acceptable reasons for a peasant to leave their village, transforming the pilgrimage into a mix of pious devotion and the adventure of a lifetime.
Legends of the Path: Kobo Daishi and the 88 Temples
The most famous Junrei in Japan is undoubtedly the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage (Shikoku Henro). This 1,200-kilometer route circles the entire island of Shikoku and is steeped in legend.
The central figure of this pilgrimage is Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Legend says that Kobo Daishi never truly died but entered a state of eternal meditation. Pilgrims on this route believe they are not walking alone; they practice Dogyo Ninin (同行二人), meaning “two traveling together.” The pilgrim is always accompanied by the spirit of Kobo Daishi.
Folklore warns that the path is a mirror of the soul. There are stories of pilgrims who, weighed down by the guilt of past crimes, found their walking sticks becoming impossibly heavy or were swallowed by the earth until they confessed their sins. Conversely, the legend of Osettai suggests that beggars or strangers met along the path might be Kobo Daishi in disguise, testing the charity of the locals.
Modern Culture: From Devotion to Anime
Today, Junrei has evolved. While many still walk for religious merit or to honor deceased ancestors, a significant number of modern pilgrims undertake the journey for fitness, tourism, or a “digital detox.” The henro-korogashi (path where pilgrims tumble) is now traversed by retirees in hiking gear and university students seeking direction in life.
Interestingly, the term Junrei has been co-opted by pop culture. “Seichi Junrei” (Holy Land Pilgrimage) now refers to fans visiting real-life locations featured in anime and manga. Just as traditional pilgrims collect calligraphy stamps, anime fans travel to rural train stations and shrines to photograph the scenes from their favorite shows (such as the staircase in the movie Your Name), creating a fascinating overlay of modern fandom onto ancient geography.
Traveler’s Tips for the Aspiring Pilgrim
If you intend to walk a Junrei route, respect is paramount. Here is how to prepare:
1. The Gear
Traditional pilgrims wear a white vest (hakui), a sedge hat (sugegasa), and carry a staff (kongozue). The staff is treated as the embodiment of the monk accompanying you; when you stop at an inn, the staff’s “feet” must be washed first.
2. The Goshuin (Stamp Book)
Buy a nokyocho or stamp book. At each temple, monks will hand-write beautiful calligraphy and stamp it with red ink. This book serves as proof of your pilgrimage and is considered a sacred object.
3. Etiquette
When entering a temple gate, bow once. Wash your hands and mouth at the purification fountain. Light incense and a candle, offer a coin, and recite the Heart Sutra if you can—or simply offer a silent prayer.
4. Seasons Matter
Japan has distinct seasons. The best times for Junrei are Spring (cherry blossoms) and Autumn (red leaves). Summer is often dangerously hot and humid for long-distance walking.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For context on the early Shinto gods and the sanctity of the Japanese landscape.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context on the introduction of Buddhism to the imperial court.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A seminal English text on the Shikoku pilgrimage.
- Sacred Koyasan: Texts related to Kobo Daishi and the Shingon sect.
Whether you seek spiritual salvation, a connection to history, or simply the rhythm of walking, the Junrei offers a path. It is a reminder that in the end, the destination is less important than the person you become along the way.