常世渡り (Journey to Tokoyo)

Journey to Tokoyo: Japan’s Mythical Land of Eternity

When travelers look out over the boundless Japanese coastline, they often admire the scenic beauty of the waves meeting the horizon. However, in ancient Japanese folklore, that distant line where the sky meets the sea was believed to be the gateway to a very different realm. This is the story of Tokoyo-watari, or the journey to Tokoyo no Kuni—the Eternal Land.

Unlike the gloomy underworld of Yomi or the celestial high plains of Takamagahara, Tokoyo is often depicted as a paradise of longevity, wealth, and timelessness. For cultural explorers and mythology enthusiasts, understanding this concept unlocks a deeper appreciation of Japanese Shinto beliefs, festivals, and even culinary history.

The Origins of the Eternal Land

The concept of Tokoyo no Kuni (常世の国) predates many organized religious structures in Japan. Ancient coastal communities believed in a realm located far across the ocean, a utopia where time did not flow and aging did not exist. It is a concept deeply rooted in nature worship and the mystery of the sea.

Scholars suggest that Tokoyo represents the ideal “Otherworld.” While it is sometimes associated with the spirits of the dead, it is not a hellscape. Instead, it is a source of vitality and blessings that periodically drift ashore to the human world. This belief is strikingly similar to the Okinawan concept of Nirai Kanai, a paradise across the sea from which gods bring blessings.

In early Japan, the boundary between the human world and Tokoyo was considered permeable. While ordinary humans could not easily cross the ocean to reach it, specific heroes and deities were said to have made the Tokoyo-watari—the voyage to the eternal.

The Legend of Tajimamori and the Timeless Fruit

The most poignant legend concerning the journey to Tokoyo is found in the ancient chronicles regarding Tajimamori (Tajima no Mori). According to the lore, Emperor Suinin, who reigned during a semi-mythical period, sent Tajimamori on a perilous quest. The Emperor desired the “fruit of the everlasting fragrance” (Tokijiku no Kaku no Konomi), which grew only in Tokoyo no Kuni.

Tajimamori spent ten arduous years navigating the unknown seas. He eventually reached the Eternal Land and harvested the sacred fruit, which is believed to be the Tachibana (a native Japanese citrus) or an ancestor of the mandarin orange.

Tragically, the return journey was just as long. By the time Tajimamori returned to Japan with the prize of immortality, Emperor Suinin had already passed away. Overcome with grief, Tajimamori wailed and presented the fruit to the Emperor’s tomb before dying of a broken heart. Because of this journey, Tajimamori is deified today as the god of sweets and confections (wagashi), as fruit was the original “sweet” of ancient Japan.

Modern Culture and Echoes of the Myth

While few modern Japanese people actively worship the concept of Tokoyo as a physical place, its influence permeates contemporary culture and arts.

The God of Sweets

The legacy of Tajimamori lives on in the culinary world. The Tachibana citrus symbol is frequently used in family crests and cultural logos. If you visit a traditional Japanese sweet shop (wagashi-ya), you are indirectly participating in a culture established by the man who voyaged to Tokoyo.

Pop Culture and Anime

The idea of a “hidden realm” coexisting with our own is a staple in anime and manga. Recent films like Makoto Shinkai’s Suzume utilize the concept of the “Ever-After” (Tokoyo), visually depicting it as a place where time is stagnant and the spirits of the past linger. Though the artistic interpretation changes, the core idea—a mystical land just out of reach—remains consistent with the ancient texts.

Traveler’s Tips: Seeking the Eternal

You cannot book a flight to Tokoyo no Kuni, but you can visit the sites dedicated to its legends. Here is how to incorporate this myth into your itinerary:

1. Nakashima Shrine (Hyogo Prefecture)

Located in Toyooka City, this shrine is dedicated to Tajimamori. It is considered the mecca for confectioners. Visitors often leave sweets as offerings. It is a quiet, spiritual spot off the beaten path that connects you directly to the legend of the eternal fruit.

2. The Kumano Kodo (Wakayama Prefecture)

The Kii Peninsula has long been viewed as a borderland between the living and the dead. The Kumano region, with its deep forests and ocean vistas, was historically believed to be a departure point for boats seeking the Pure Land or Tokoyo. Standing on the coast here offers a profound atmospheric connection to the myth.

3. Taste the Tachibana

Keep an eye out for Tachibana motifs or citrus-flavored sweets in high-end souvenir shops. Consuming these treats is a symbolic way to partake in the “fruit of the everlasting” that Tajimamori spent a lifetime retrieving.

Sources & Further Reading

To dive deeper into the original texts that describe the Tokoyo-watari, consider exploring these historical translations:

  • The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest chronicle details the lineage of gods and the initial concepts of the otherworlds.
  • The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): This text provides the detailed account of Emperor Suinin and Tajimamori’s quest for the timeless fruit.
  • Kwaidan by Lafcadio Hearn: While later (Meiji era), Hearn’s collection captures the atmospheric essence of the Japanese supernatural and the blurred lines between worlds.

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