Oki Islands: Exploring Japan’s Imperial Exile Legends
Off the coast of the Shimane Peninsula in the Sea of Japan lies an archipelago of dramatic cliffs, emerald waters, and a history steeped in melancholy and intrigue. The Oki Islands, now a UNESCO Global Geopark celebrated for their geological majesty, were once known by a darker designation: a prison for the divine. For centuries, these remote islands served as the destination for hairyu (banishment), where defeated emperors and nobles were sent to live out their days far from the political machinations of Kyoto.
The Origins of Exile
In pre-modern Japan, political rivals were often too high-ranking or spiritually significant to simply execute. Killing an Emperor or a high-ranking noble risked invoking divine wrath or public unrest. The solution was exile. The Oki Islands were considered the perfect natural fortress for this purpose. Separated from the mainland by rough, unpredictable currents and lying roughly 40 to 80 kilometers out at sea, escape was deemed nearly impossible.
The isolation that attracts modern travelers—seeking silence and pristine nature—was a torment for the cultured aristocrats of the Heian and Kamakura periods. They were cut off from the capital’s poetry contests, fine silks, and courtly romance, forced to adapt to a rugged life among fishermen and farmers.
The Legends of the Emperors
While many nobles were sent to Oki, the islands are most famously associated with two Emperors: Go-Toba and Go-Daigo. Their stories define the cultural landscape of the region.
The Tragedy of Emperor Go-Toba
Emperor Go-Toba was exiled to the Oki Islands in 1221 following the failure of the Jokyu War, an attempt to overthrow the Kamakura Shogunate. He spent the remaining 19 years of his life on Nakanoshima (one of the Dōzen islands). Legend holds that he spent his days composing waka poetry, gazing longingly toward the capital he would never see again. His legacy is one of sorrowful resignation. Visitors today can visit the Oki Shrine, built in 1939 to honor his spirit, located near his cremation mound. It is said that the wind rustling through the pines there still carries the sound of his lamentations.
The Escape of Emperor Go-Daigo
A century later, in 1332, Emperor Go-Daigo was banished to the islands after the failed Genko War. Unlike his predecessor, Go-Daigo refused to accept his fate. His legend is one of resilience and rebellion. The most enduring story tells of his daring escape. According to local lore, Go-Daigo hid under a pile of dried squid (or fish, depending on the version) on a fishing boat to evade guards. He successfully crossed the turbulent sea to Mount Senjo in Tottori Prefecture, eventually rallying forces to overthrow the Kamakura Shogunate and initiate the Kenmu Restoration. His successful flight remains a celebrated tale of imperial tenacity.
Modern Culture and Legacy
The history of exile has deeply influenced the local culture of the Oki Islands, creating a unique blend of courtly sophistication and rugged island practicality. The islanders treated the exiled sovereigns with immense respect, and this hospitality is still evident today.
One of the most fascinating cultural remnants is Oki-zumo (Bull Sumo). Unlike the Spanish tradition of bullfighting, the Japanese version is a test of strength where two bulls lock horns and push against each other, similar to human sumo. Legend claims that this sport was introduced or popularized to entertain the exiled Emperor Go-Toba during his lonely years on the island. It remains a cherished intangible cultural property, held at shrines across the islands, symbolizing the enduring bond between the islanders and their historic “guests.”
Furthermore, the local dialect and cuisine still bear faint traces of the Kyoto aristocracy, preserved in a time capsule created by the ocean barrier.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting the Oki Islands today offers a chance to walk through living history.
- Getting There: You can take a ferry or high-speed jet foil from Sakaiminato or Shichirui ports on the mainland (Shimane/Tottori borders). There are also flights to Oki Airport on Dōgo Island from Osaka (Itami) and Izumo.
- Island Hopping: The archipelago is split into Dōgo (the large island) and Dōzen (three smaller islands around a caldera). Plan to use inter-island ferries to see the sites of both Emperors.
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring to early autumn is ideal. The sea can be very rough in winter, leading to ferry cancellations—a reminder of why this was an effective prison.
- Must-Eats: Try the Oki beef, fresh oysters, and the local turban shells (sazae). The seafood here is legendary.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the history of the Oki exiles, the following historical texts and locations provide essential context:
- The Taiheiki: A 14th-century historical epic that details the Genko War and Emperor Go-Daigo’s exile and escape.
- The Masukagami: A historical tale documenting the imperial court during the Kamakura period, including the exile of Go-Toba.
- Azuma Kagami: A chronicle of the Kamakura Shogunate providing the military perspective on the exiles.
- Oki Shrine (Ama Town): The primary physical site dedicated to Emperor Go-Toba.