Watanabe no Tsuna and the Oni: Kyoto’s Samurai Myth
When walking through the historic streets of Kyoto, it is easy to imagine the capital as it was a thousand years ago: a place of elegance, poetry, and lurking shadows. In the Heian period (794–1185), the line between the human world and the spirit realm was thin. Among the most enduring legends of this era is the tale of Watanabe no Tsuna, a fearless samurai, and his terrifying encounter with an Oni (demon). This story of bravery, deception, and the supernatural continues to captivate travelers and culture enthusiasts today.
The Origins: A Historical Warrior
Before diving into the myth, it is essential to understand the man behind the legend. Watanabe no Tsuna (953–1025) was a real historical figure. He was a prominent samurai and a retainer of Minamoto no Yorimitsu (also known as Raiko), a legendary demon-quelling hero.
Tsuna was one of the Shitenno, or the “Four Guardian Kings,” who served Yorimitsu. These warriors were renowned for their martial prowess and loyalty. While historical records confirm Tsuna’s existence as a skilled warrior and administrator, his life became heavily romanticized in later folklore. He is often depicted as the archetype of the ideal samurai: stoic, incredibly strong, and unafraid of the yokai (monsters) that plagued the ancient capital.
The Legend: The Severed Arm at Modoribashi
The most famous account of Watanabe no Tsuna involves a bridge and a disguised demon. While there are variations of the tale—some placing the encounter at the Rashomon Gate—the most popular version centers on Ichijo Modoribashi Bridge in Kyoto.
The Encounter
According to the legend, Tsuna was crossing the bridge late one night when he saw a beautiful young woman traveling alone. Concerned for her safety in the dark, he offered to escort her. As they walked, the woman suddenly transformed into a hideous Oni. The demon grabbed Tsuna by his helmet and flew into the air, attempting to kidnap him (or devour him, depending on the telling).
Without hesitating, Tsuna drew his celebrated sword, Higekiri (Beard Cutter), and slashed at the demon. He managed to sever the Oni’s arm, causing the monster to drop him and flee into the night, howling in pain. Tsuna kept the massive, hairy arm as a trophy and a testament to his victory.
The Demon’s Revenge
The story does not end at the bridge. Tsuna locked the arm away in a chest, following advice to keep it hidden for seven days to ward off bad luck. However, an elderly woman claiming to be his aunt (or wet nurse) came to visit him. She begged to see the demon’s arm, expressing awe at his bravery.
Moved by her praise, Tsuna broke his vow and opened the chest. In an instant, the “aunt” revealed her true form—it was the Oni, Ibaraki-doji. The demon snatched the arm, smashed through the roof, and flew away, leaving Tsuna alive but humbled. This sequel serves as a cautionary tale about deception and the cunning nature of spirits.
Modern Culture: From Noh to Anime
The battle between Watanabe no Tsuna and the Oni has permeated Japanese culture for centuries and remains relevant in modern media.
Traditional Arts
In traditional Japanese theater, this legend is immortalized. The Noh play Ibaraki and the Kabuki play Ibaraki vividly reenact the scene where the demon retrieves its arm. These performances highlight the tension between the stoic warrior and the chaotic supernatural force.
Pop Culture
In the realm of anime, manga, and video games, Tsuna and his sword appear frequently.
- Fate/Grand Order: Watanabe no Tsuna appears as a “Saber” class servant, explicitly referencing his demon-slaying lore.
- Nioh 2: The game features heavy mythology surrounding the Four Guardian Kings and their battles against yokai.
- Yo-kai Watch: Various characters are inspired by the classic Oni tropes established in these Heian legends.
Traveler’s Tips: Retracing the Legend in Kyoto
For travelers visiting Kyoto, the legend of Watanabe no Tsuna offers a unique itinerary off the beaten path.
1. Ichijo Modoribashi Bridge
Located in the Kamigyo Ward, the current bridge is a modern reconstruction (1995), but it sits on the historical site where Tsuna allegedly met the Oni. It is a quiet spot, but for those who know the story, it holds a heavy atmosphere.
2. Seimei Shrine
Just a short walk from the bridge is the shrine dedicated to Abe no Seimei, the legendary Onmyoji (yin-yang master). Seimei often features in stories alongside Yorimitsu and Tsuna, providing the spiritual protection required to fight demons. The shrine contains a small replica of the Modoribashi bridge and statues of shikigami.
3. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
The sword Tsuna used, Higekiri, was later renamed Onikirimaru (Demon Slayer). While the sword itself is a National Treasure often kept in museums (like the Kyoto National Museum), Kitano Tenmangu is deeply connected to the lore of the Minamoto clan and Heian spirits.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of these legends, one must look to Japan’s classical literature. While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki establish the foundation of Japanese mythology, the specific tales of Watanabe no Tsuna are found in later collections:
- Konjaku Monogatarishu (Tales of Times Now Past): A late Heian period collection that documents various folklore, including encounters with Oni.
- The Tale of the Heike (Heike Monogatari): Contains references to the Minamoto clan’s lineage and their famous swords.
- Taiheiki: A 14th-century historical epic that details the lore of the sword Onikirimaru and the slaying of Ibaraki-doji.
By exploring these texts and visiting the physical sites in Kyoto, travelers can bridge the gap between history and myth, standing exactly where the samurai once battled the darkness.