Kashima-dachi: The Sacred Origins of Japanese Travel
When we think of travel in Japan today, we often picture the sleek Shinkansen gliding past Mount Fuji or the neon lights of Tokyo. However, the concept of the journey—known as tabi—has deep spiritual roots in Japanese culture. One of the most evocative terms regarding the act of departure is “Kashima-dachi” (鹿島立ち).
While the phrase is somewhat archaic in modern conversation, it holds a profound significance in history and mythology, symbolizing a resolute departure and the prayer for a safe return. To understand Kashima-dachi is to understand the Japanese reverence for beginnings and the spiritual weight of leaving home.
The Origins: Prayers of the Border Guards
The term Kashima-dachi literally translates to “Departure from Kashima.” Its historical roots can be traced back to the Nara period (710–794 AD) and the system of Sakimori (border guards).
In ancient Japan, soldiers from the eastern provinces (present-day Kanto region) were conscripted and sent to the far western island of Kyushu to defend the coastline against potential invasions from the continent. This was a perilous and often one-way journey, lasting years. Before setting out on this arduous trek, these soldiers would gather at the grand Kashima Jingu (Kashima Shrine) in modern-day Ibaraki Prefecture.
Kashima Jingu is dedicated to Takemikazuchi-no-Okami, the god of martial arts and thunder. The soldiers prayed to this powerful deity for martial success and, more importantly, for safety during their travels. The act of setting out from this specific shrine became synonymous with starting a significant journey, birthing the idiom “Kashima-dachi.”
The Legend: Takemikazuchi’s Divine Mission
Beyond the historical accounts of soldiers, the concept is deeply intertwined with Shinto mythology, specifically the Kuni-yuzuri (Transfer of the Land) myth.
The Negotiator God
According to ancient texts, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu wanted her descendants to rule the Ashihara no Nakatsukuni (the Central Land of Reed Plains, or Japan). However, the land was currently ruled by Okuninushi. To negotiate the transfer of power, the heavenly gods sent various envoys, most of whom failed.
Finally, Takemikazuchi-no-Okami was chosen. He departed—a divine Kashima-dachi—to confront Okuninushi in the land of Izumo. Legend says Takemikazuchi sat upon the menacing points of upturned swords to demonstrate his prowess and successfully negotiated the peaceful transfer of the land.
The Symbolism
This myth elevates the concept of Kashima-dachi from a mere physical departure to a spiritual mission. It represents leaving one’s comfort zone with courage, backed by divine authority, to achieve a difficult goal. When the ancient Sakimori prayed at Kashima, they were channeling the bravery of Takemikazuchi, hoping to embody his strength as they left their families behind.
Modern Culture and Usage
In contemporary Japan, the phrase “Kashima-dachi” is rarely used in casual conversation to describe a weekend vacation. Instead, it carries a literary or ceremonial weight. It implies a departure for a significant life change—such as moving abroad, starting a new career, or getting married.
Kashima Jingu remains a significant “Power Spot” (spiritual energy vortex) in Japan. Every year, thousands of people visit not just for sightseeing, but to mark a new beginning. The shrine is particularly popular among athletes and business leaders who are about to embark on a new “season” or venture, seeking the blessing of the victory god, Takemikazuchi, just as the ancient soldiers did.
Furthermore, the shrine is famous for its deer. In Shinto, deer are considered messengers of the gods. It is said that when the deity Takemikazuchi moved from Kashima to Nara (to be enshrined at Kasuga Taisha), he rode a white deer. This connects the spiritual geography of Japan, linking the eastern Kanto region with the ancient capital of Nara.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Kashima Jingu
If you wish to perform your own symbolic Kashima-dachi, a visit to Kashima Jingu is a must. It is one of the oldest and most prestigious shrines in Eastern Japan.
Highlights
- The Main Sanctuary: An impressive structure designated as an Important Cultural Property, reflecting the architectural style of the early Edo period.
- The Mitarashi Pond: A crystal-clear pond where visitors can see torii gates submerged in the water. It was traditionally used for purification rituals before worship.
- The Deer Park: Home to around 30 deer, the living messengers of the shrine.
- The Kaname-ishi (Keystone): A mysterious stone said to pin down the giant catfish that causes earthquakes. It connects to the legend of Takemikazuchi suppressing the earth’s tremors.
Access
Kashima Jingu is located in Kashima City, Ibaraki Prefecture.
- By Bus: The easiest way for tourists is the highway bus from Tokyo Station (Yaesu South Exit), which takes approximately 2 hours and drops you directly at the shrine entrance.
- By Train: Take the JR Sobu Line or Narita Line to Narita Station, then transfer to the JR Kashima Line to Kashima-Jingu Station.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in diving deeper into the mythology and history behind the Kashima Departure, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Contains the mythology of Takemikazuchi and the Transfer of the Land.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers a parallel, slightly more historical account of the myths and the imperial lineage.
- The Man’yoshu (Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves): Japan’s oldest anthology of poetry, which features numerous Sakimori-uta (songs of the border guards) expressing the sorrow and resolve of Kashima-dachi.