The Flight of Takeminakata: Tracing the Myth of Suwa
Japan’s landscape is etched with the stories of the Kami (gods). While many travelers flock to Kyoto or Tokyo, the mountainous heart of Nagano Prefecture holds one of the most dramatic tales in Japanese mythology: the flight of Takeminakata. This ancient story of defeat, exile, and redemption is not just a fairy tale; it is the spiritual foundation of the grand Suwa Taisha shrines and the mythical origin of Sumo wrestling.
Introduction
If you stand on the shores of Lake Suwa on a misty morning, it is easy to imagine why this place was chosen as a sanctuary for a god. The air is crisp, and the surrounding mountains feel like fortress walls. This is the domain of Takeminakata-no-kami, a deity known for wind, water, and agriculture.
However, Takeminakata was not always the lord of this land. His presence here is the result of a desperate escape from western Japan—a mythological event known as the “Flight of Takeminakata.” For culture enthusiasts and travelers alike, understanding this legend unlocks the secrets of the Suwa region and offers a fascinating glimpse into the turbulent transition of power in ancient Japanese mythology.
Origins: The Transfer of the Land
To understand why Takeminakata fled, we must look to the Kuni-yuzuri (Transfer of the Land) cycle of myths. According to ancient texts, the sun goddess Amaterasu (ancestor of the Imperial family) wished for her descendants to rule the earthly realm, which was then controlled by Okuninushi, the Lord of Izumo.
Amaterasu sent several envoys to demand Okuninushi yield his lands. Eventually, the thunder god Takemikazuchi descended to the shores of Izumo to deliver the final ultimatum. While Okuninushi and his other son agreed to abdicate, Takeminakata did not. Renowned for his immense physical strength, he refused to hand over his father’s domain without a fight.
The Legend: The First Sumo Match and the Great Escape
The confrontation between Takeminakata and the heavenly envoy Takemikazuchi is legendary. Takeminakata challenged the envoy to a test of strength, known as chikara-kurabe.
When Takeminakata grabbed Takemikazuchi’s hand, the envoy turned his arm into an icicle, then into a sword blade, preventing Takeminakata from holding on. In retaliation, Takemikazuchi seized Takeminakata’s arm and crushed it like a reed, tossing him aside. This grappling contest is widely cited by historians and folklorists as the mythical origin of Sumo wrestling.
Terrified and defeated, Takeminakata fled from Izumo (modern-day Shimane Prefecture) all the way to the district of Suwa in Shinano (modern-day Nagano Prefecture). Takemikazuchi pursued him relentlessly. Finally cornered at Lake Suwa, Takeminakata begged for his life. He vowed that he would never leave the sacred boundaries of Suwa if his life were spared.
True to his word, the god settled there, becoming the guardian deity of the region, merging with local nature spirits to become the powerful master of Suwa Taisha.
Modern Culture: The Legacy of the Exile
Today, the legend of Takeminakata is vibrant and visible.
Suwa Taisha (The Grand Shrine of Suwa)
The most direct physical manifestation of this myth is the Suwa Taisha, one of Japan’s oldest shrine complexes. It consists of four separate shrines located around Lake Suwa: the Maemiya and Honmiya (Upper Shrines), and the Harumiya and Akimiya (Lower Shrines). Unlike many shrines that house physical objects as sacred bodies (shintai), the Upper Shrine worships the mountain itself, while the Lower Shrine worships a sacred tree, reflecting the ancient nature worship Takeminakata adopted.
The Onbashira Festival
Every six years, the region hosts the Onbashira Festival, famed as one of the most dangerous festivals in Japan. Enormous logs are felled from the mountains and ridden down steep slopes by brave locals to replace the pillars at the four shrines. The raw masculinity and bravery required for this festival are often associated with the warrior nature of Takeminakata.
Sumo Connections
Because of the battle with Takemikazuchi, Takeminakata is revered as a patron of martial arts and Sumo. You will often see Sumo wrestlers performing dedication ceremonies at shrines linked to this lineage.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Takeminakata’s Domain
If you wish to follow the path of the exiled god, a trip to the Suwa region is a must. Here is how to make the most of it:
- Access: Take the JR Chuo Line (Azusa Limited Express) from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Kami-Suwa Station. The trip takes about 2.5 hours.
- Shrine Hopping: Renting a bicycle near the station is a fantastic way to visit the two Lower Shrines (Shimosha). The Upper Shrines (Kamisha) are further away and are best accessed by taxi or local bus.
- Local Delicacies: While there, try the local Shinshu Soba noodles and Miso, which are specialties of the Nagano region.
- Hot Springs: Kami-Suwa is famous for its onsens. After exploring the shrines, soak in a hot spring overlooking the lake where Takeminakata found his final sanctuary.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the primary texts detailing the Flight of Takeminakata and the Transfer of the Land, the following historical records are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this text provides the most detailed narrative of the confrontation between Takeminakata and Takemikazuchi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Compiled in 720 AD, offering alternative perspectives on the myths of Izumo.
- Suwa Daimyojin Ekotoba: A medieval text specifically focusing on the legends and festivals of the Suwa Shrine.