Unveiling the Suwa Myths: Gods, Ice, and Ancient Rites
Deep in the mountainous heart of Nagano Prefecture lies Lake Suwa, a body of water that mirrors not just the sky, but centuries of folklore. The region is home to the Suwa Taisha (Suwa Grand Shrine), one of the oldest and most significant shrine complexes in Japan. However, it is the dramatic and sometimes violent mythology behind these shrines—the Suwa Myths—that draws travelers, historians, and spiritual seekers from around the globe. From the origins of Sumo wrestling to frozen pathways formed by deities, the stories of Suwa are woven into the very landscape.
Introduction
Japanese mythology is often associated with the sun goddess Amaterasu and the imperial line, but the myths of Suwa offer a glimpse into an older, earthier form of worship. The Suwa region represents a unique intersection where the gods of the wind, water, and agriculture meet. Unlike the polished narratives of Kyoto, the legends here feel raw and elemental.
At the center of these myths is Takeminakata-no-Kami, a powerful deity whose defeat in ancient times led to his exile in Suwa. Yet, rather than fading into obscurity, he became the guardian of the region, revered for his strength and control over the elements. For the cultural traveler, understanding these myths transforms a visit to Lake Suwa from a simple sightseeing trip into a journey through Japan’s spiritual history.
Origins: The Izumo Connection
The roots of the Suwa myths are found in the Kuni-yuzuri, or the “Transfer of the Land,” a pivotal event in Japanese mythology. This narrative describes how the earthly gods (Kunitsukami) handed over control of Japan to the heavenly gods (Amatsukami), led by the Sun Goddess Amaterasu.
Takeminakata was the son of Okuninushi, the great lord of the Izumo province. When the heavenly deities sent messengers to demand the land, most of the earthly gods acquiesced. However, Takeminakata, possessed of immense physical strength and a warrior’s spirit, refused to kneel without a fight. This defiance set the stage for one of the most famous battles in Shinto lore.
Legend: The First Sumo Match and the God’s Crossing
The Battle of Strength
According to ancient records, Takeminakata challenged the heavenly messenger, the thunder god Takemikazuchi, to a test of strength. This confrontation is widely considered the mythological origin of Sumo, Japan’s national sport. Takeminakata grabbed the thunder god’s hand, but Takemikazuchi transformed his arm into an icicle and then a sword blade, forcing Takeminakata to let go. Takemikazuchi then crushed Takeminakata’s arm, throwing him to the ground.
Defeated and fleeing for his life, Takeminakata retreated all the way to the Suwa region in Shinano (modern-day Nagano). There, cornered, he vowed never to leave the Suwa boundaries again. In exchange for his life, he became the guardian deity of the land, merging with local nature spirits—particularly the god of the Moreya, a local deity of the indigenous people.
Omiwatari: The God’s Crossing
The myth does not end with exile. Takeminakata is enshrined at the Kamisha (Upper Shrine) on the south side of Lake Suwa, while his wife, the goddess Yasakatome, is enshrined at the Shimosha (Lower Shrine) on the north side.
Legend says that during freezing winters, the male god crosses the frozen lake to visit his wife. This phenomenon causes the ice to crack and heave upward, forming a jagged ridge across the surface. This is known as Omiwatari (The God’s Crossing). For centuries, local priests have examined these cracks to predict the coming year’s harvest and weather. If the lake does not freeze, it is called Ake no Umi (The Empty Sea), signifying that the gods did not meet.
Modern Culture: The Onbashira Festival
The ferocity of Takeminakata’s spirit is best preserved in the Onbashira Festival, held once every six years in the years of the Monkey and the Tiger. It is considered one of Japan’s most dangerous festivals.
During this event, massive fir trees are felled in the mountains and manually dragged down to the four shrines of the Suwa Taisha complex. The highlight is the Ki-otoshi, where men ride these massive logs as they slide down steep hills. This ritual acts as a spiritual renewal of the shrine buildings (the logs become the new pillars) and honors the vigor of the Suwa deity. The festival is a living testament to the endurance of the myth, blending community cooperation with a primal display of bravery.
Traveler’s Tips
To fully experience the Suwa myths, plan your trip carefully:
- Visiting the Four Shrines: Suwa Taisha consists of four separate shrines: Kamisha Honmiya, Kamisha Maemiya, Shimosha Harumiya, and Shimosha Akimiya. You will need a car or a combination of trains and taxis to visit all four in one day.
- Best Time to Visit:
- Winter (January-February): To potentially see the Omiwatari on the frozen lake, though global warming has made this phenomenon rarer.
- Spring: For the Onbashira Festival (check the schedule, as it occurs every six years—next due in 2028).
- Access: Take the JR Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku Station (Tokyo) to Kami-Suwa Station. The trip takes approximately 2.5 hours.
- Local Cuisine: Don’t miss the local sake, brewed with high-quality water from the Japanese Alps, and soba noodles, a Nagano specialty.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the textual origins of these myths, the following historical classics are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this text provides the primary account of the battle between Takeminakata and Takemikazuchi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, offering parallel historical context to the myths.
- Suwa Daimyojin Ekotoba: A medieval text specifically detailing the legends and rituals unique to the Suwa region, including hunting rituals that differ from standard Shinto practices.