Japan’s Snake Deities: Unveiling the Mysteries of Serpent Worship
In the lush, verdant landscapes of rural Japan, where rice paddies reflect the sky and mountains shrouded in mist loom overhead, the boundary between the human world and the divine is thin. Among the myriad Kami (spirits/gods) worshipped in Shinto, few are as captivating and universally misunderstood by Western audiences as the Snake God (Hebigami). While often associated with danger or evil in Judeo-Christian traditions, the serpent in Japanese culture is a potent symbol of water, fertility, protection, and rebirth.
The Roots of Reverence: Origins of Serpent Worship
To understand why the snake is worshipped, one must look at the foundations of Japanese civilization: wet-rice agriculture. The origins of Hebigami worship are deeply animistic and tied intrinsically to nature.
Snakes are frequently found near water sources—rivers, ponds, and irrigated fields. In ancient times, farmers observed that snakes preyed on mice and rats, the very pests that threatened their precious rice stockpiles. Consequently, the snake became revered as the Guardian of the Grain and the Spirit of the Water (Suijin).
Furthermore, the biological characteristic of shedding skin fascinated early Japanese people. This act of sloughing off the old to reveal the new became a powerful metaphor for resurrection, eternal youth, and vitality. The snake was not just a protector of the harvest; it was a symbol of life’s cyclical nature, bridging the gap between the earth and the underworld.
Legends of the Scales: Myths from the Kojiki
Japanese mythology, recorded in ancient texts like the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), is rife with serpent imagery. These creatures are not merely beasts but often deities in disguise.
The Deity of Mt. Miwa
Perhaps the most famous legend of a benevolent serpent deity concerns Omononushi, the Great Master of Things, enshrined at Omiwa Shrine in Nara. According to legend, a beautiful woman named Ikutamayorihime was visited nightly by a handsome man whose identity she did not know. Determined to discover who he was, she pinned a spool of hemp thread to his garment. The next morning, she followed the thread all the way to a shrine on Mount Miwa, discovering that her lover was actually the snake deity, Omononushi.
Yamata no Orochi
Conversely, the serpent also represents the chaotic forces of nature. The myth of Yamata no Orochi—the eight-headed, eight-tailed dragon-serpent—tells of the storm god Susanoo slaying the beast to save a princess. This legend is often interpreted as an allegory for flood control, with the serpent representing a raging river that requires taming.
Modern Culture: Luck, Money, and Benzaiten
In contemporary Japan, the worship of the snake has evolved but remains prevalent. The serpent is now closely associated with Benzaiten, the goddess of everything that flows (water, music, eloquence). Statues of Benzaiten are often depicted with white snakes, which serve as her divine messengers.
This association has led to the modern belief that snakes, particularly white ones, are harbingers of financial fortune. It is a common superstition in Japan that keeping a piece of shed snakeskin in your wallet will ensure you never run out of money. You will often find “white snake” charms sold at shrines for business prosperity and wealth accumulation.
Traveler’s Tips: Where to Experience Serpent Worship
For the culturally curious traveler, witnessing the vestiges of this ancient faith is a highlight of a trip to Japan. Here is how you can respectfully engage with this tradition:
1. Visit Omiwa Shrine (Nara Prefecture)
As one of Japan’s oldest shrines, Omiwa has no main prayer hall; the mountain itself is the deity. It is the epicenter of snake worship. You will see offerings of eggs and sake left by devotees, as these are believed to be the favorite foods of the snake god.
2. Spot the White Snake in Iwakuni
Visit the Kintaikyo Bridge area in Iwakuni (Yamaguchi Prefecture) to see the Iwakuni White Snakes. These are real, living albino rat snakes designated as National Natural Monuments. There is a museum and shrine dedicated to them, viewing them as living deities.
3. Shrine Etiquette
If you encounter a snake on shrine grounds, do not panic or harm it. It is considered a very auspicious sign—a welcome from the deity. Simply bow and allow it to pass.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese mythology and the role of the serpent, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. This text contains the foundational myths of Omononushi and Yamata no Orochi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers alternative versions of the creation myths.
- Folklore Studies regarding “Suijin” (Water Gods): Academic papers on Japanese agrarian religion provide excellent context on the shift from nature worship to personified deities.
The serpent in Japan is a complex figure—a guardian of the rice field, a granter of wealth, and a terrifying force of nature. By exploring these shrines and stories, travelers gain a glimpse into the animistic heart of Japanese spirituality, where the divine coils beneath the surface of the everyday world.