Journey to Ne-no-kuni: Japan’s Mythical Underworld
When travelers think of Japan, images of cherry blossoms, neon-lit Tokyo streets, and serene Kyoto temples usually come to mind. However, beneath the surface of the physical world lies a rich tapestry of spiritual geography that is just as compelling. Among these hidden realms is Ne-no-kuni (根の国), the “Land of Roots” or the “Netherworld.” Unlike the fiery hells of Western theology, Ne-no-kuni is a place of ancestry, trial, and raw elemental power.
For the culture-seeking traveler, understanding Ne-no-kuni offers a fascinating glimpse into the Japanese psyche and the ancient Shinto worldview. Today, we journey not just into history, but into the depths of the earth to explore the legend of the Land of Roots and where you can find its traces in modern Japan.
The Origins: Beneath the Surface
The concept of Ne-no-kuni dates back to the earliest recorded history of Japan. Literally translating to “Root Country” or “Land of Origins,” it is often mentioned alongside—and sometimes conflated with—Yomi-no-kuni (the Land of the Dead). However, scholars and theologians distinguish the two. While Yomi is a place of pollution and finality, Ne-no-kuni is often viewed as a parallel realm located either deep underground or across the ocean, inhabited by spirits and ruled by powerful deities.
It is described as a place of darkness but also of creation. It is the domain of Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the tempestuous storm god who was banished from the High Heavens (Takamagahara). Here, life and death intertwine, suggesting that existence returns to its “roots” to be renewed rather than simply extinguished.
The Legend: Okuninushi’s Trials
The most famous narrative concerning Ne-no-kuni is found in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters). It tells the story of the young god Okuninushi, a descendant of Susanoo.
Fleeing from his jealous brothers who sought to kill him, Okuninushi descended into Ne-no-kuni to seek the counsel of his ancestor, Susanoo. Upon arriving, he fell in love with Susanoo’s daughter, the Princess Suseri-hime. However, Susanoo was not keen on handing his daughter over to a timid youth. He subjected Okuninushi to a series of harrowing trials to prove his worthiness.
First, Okuninushi was made to sleep in a room filled with venomous snakes. The next night, he was placed in a room buzzing with centipedes and wasps. With the magical aid of Suseri-hime, who gave him protective scarves, he survived. The final trial involved retrieving an arrow shot into a vast meadow, which Susanoo then set ablaze. Surrounded by fire, Okuninushi was saved by a mouse that showed him a hole in the earth to hide in until the flames passed.
Having survived these ordeals, Okuninushi grew stronger. While Susanoo slept, the young god tied the storm god’s hair to the rafters of his palace, stole his legendary weapons—the Sword of Life, the Bow and Arrow of Life, and the Heavenly Koto—and fled with Suseri-hime. Awakening, Susanoo chased them to the border (Yomotsu Hirasaka) but ultimately stopped, acknowledging Okuninushi’s strength and blessing him as the ruler of the terrestrial world.
Modern Culture and Influence
The themes of Ne-no-kuni permeate Japanese pop culture and modern spirituality. The idea of a “training arc” in the underworld to gain power is a trope seen in countless anime and manga, directly inspired by Okuninushi’s trials. Series like Naruto and Noragami frequently borrow terminology and character archetypes from these myths.
Culturally, the concept of “roots” remains vital. It represents the subconscious and the connection to ancestors. During Obon festivals, the barrier between the visible world and the spirit realms thins, a tradition deeply rooted in these ancient geographies.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Entrance
While you cannot physically travel to the mythological Ne-no-kuni, you can visit the locations in Shimane Prefecture that are historically believed to be the entrances to these realms. This region, formerly known as Izumo, is considered the “Land of the Gods.”
1. Iya Shrine (Iya-jinja)
Located in Matsue, this shrine is heavily associated with the entrance to the underworld. It enshrines Izanami (the creator goddess) and is known for its mystical, somewhat somber atmosphere. It is said that the entrance to Yomi/Ne-no-kuni lies nearby.
2. Yomotsu Hirasaka
This is the legendary slope that leads to the underworld. Located in Higashi-Izumo, it is a tangible spot marked by large boulders and sacred ropes (shimenawa). It is a quiet, atmospheric place surrounded by trees. Legend says this is where Susanoo chased Okuninushi, and where Izanagi placed a boulder to seal off the land of the dead.
Etiquette and Atmosphere
- Respect the Silence: These are not bright, touristy spots like Asakusa. They are solemn places connected to death and rebirth. Maintain a respectful quietness.
- Prayer: The standard Shinto prayer is two bows, two claps, and one bow. However, Izumo Taisha (nearby) uses four claps. Observe locals if unsure, but the standard 2-2-1 is generally acceptable.
- Insect Repellent: As these sites are often wooded and “earthy,” bring bug spray—ironically, reminiscent of Okuninushi’s trials with wasps!
Visiting these sites allows travelers to touch the ancient soil where myths were born, bridging the gap between the modern world and the Land of Roots.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. This is the primary source for the Okuninushi and Susanoo legends.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides alternative versions of the creation myths.
- Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan: By Lafcadio Hearn (Yakumo Koizumi), who lived in Matsue and wrote extensively about the ghostly and spiritual traditions of the Izumo region.