Japan’s Sacred Bones: The Deep History of Relic Worship
When travelers visit the misty, cedar-lined paths of Mount Koya or the towering pagodas of Kyoto, they are often struck by the solemn beauty of the cemeteries and reliquaries. While Western cultures often view remains with a sense of finality or distance, Japanese spiritual culture holds a different perspective known as Reikotsu Shinko (Spirit/Relic Worship). This belief posits that bones are not merely discarded shells, but potent vessels containing spiritual energy that bridge the gap between this world and the next.
The Essence of Reikotsu Shinko
At its core, Reikotsu refers to sacred remains—typically the calcified bones or ashes left after cremation. In the context of Japanese Buddhism and folk religion, these remains serve as a focal point for veneration. The physical bone is seen as the “seat” of the soul, a tangible anchor that allows the living to care for the dead.
Unlike the concept of a soul immediately departing to a distant heaven, the Japanese tradition suggests that the spirit lingers. By enshrining the bones properly, families ensure their ancestors become protective deities rather than wandering ghosts. This practice transforms the macabre into the deeply affectionate, creating a culture where caring for the physical remains is synonymous with loving the person who passed.
Origins: From Earth to Fire
The history of relic worship in Japan is inextricably linked to the arrival of Buddhism in the 6th century. Prior to this, Shinto beliefs viewed death and dead bodies as kegare (impure). However, Buddhism introduced the concept of Busshari—the relics of the Historical Buddha (Shakyamuni).
According to scripture, after the Buddha’s cremation, his pearl-like remains were distributed among his followers and housed in stupas (mound-like structures). When this concept reached Japan, it revolutionized burial practices.
The first recorded cremation in Japan, according to historical texts, was that of the monk Dosho in 700 AD. This shift from burial to cremation allowed for the preservation and veneration of bones (kotsu). The famous five-tiered stone lanterns and pagodas seen today are essentially stylistic evolutions of the ancient Indian stupa, designed specifically to house these sacred relics.
The Legend of the Eternal Meditation
One of the most profound legends driving Reikotsu Shinko centers on Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. It is believed that Kobo Daishi did not die in 835 AD but entered a state of eternal meditation (nyujo) at Okunoin on Mount Koya, awaiting the arrival of the Future Buddha, Maitreya.
This belief sparked a massive movement of relic worship. Pilgrims and nobility alike sought to have their ashes, or at least a fragment of their bones (throat bone or Adam’s apple), interred as close to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum as possible. The legend dictates that those whose remains rest near the saint will be guided directly into the Pure Land upon Maitreya’s arrival. This led to Okunoin becoming Japan’s largest graveyard, a moss-covered testament to the fervent belief in the spiritual power of proximity to the holy.
Modern Culture: The Chopstick Ritual
Today, Reikotsu Shinko is most visibly practiced during the Japanese funeral rite known as Kotsuage (gathering of the ashes). After cremation, the family gathers around the remains. Using mismatched chopsticks (one bamboo, one wood), they pick up the bones and place them into an urn, starting from the feet and moving up to the skull.
This intimate ritual ensures the deceased is “upright” in the urn. It is a profound moment of connection, where the fear of death is replaced by a duty of care. Furthermore, “Bone Buddha” statues (Kotsu-butsu)—statues made from the mixed ashes of thousands of devotees—can still be found in temples like Isshin-ji in Osaka, serving as a modern artistic and spiritual expression of collective relic worship.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing Reliquaries
If you wish to observe this aspect of Japanese culture, respect is paramount. Here are tips for the traveler:
- Mount Koya (Wakayama): A visit to Okunoin is essential. Walk the path at dusk to see the lanterns. You will see Gorinto (five-ringed towers) which represent the elements of the universe and serve as grave markers.
- Zenko-ji (Nagano): This temple houses the first Buddhist image brought to Japan, but also extensive reliquaries.
- Etiquette: Never take photos of grieving families. While photographing old, mossy graves is generally accepted as atmospheric art, avoid close-ups of fresh names or modern grave markers. Keep your voice low.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical foundations of these practices, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Details the introduction of Buddhism and the first instances of cremation.
- The Tale of Genji: Offers insight into the Heian period’s aristocratic funeral rites and the emotional weight of impermanence (mono no aware).
- Shingon Texts: Writings attributed to Kukai regarding the nature of the body and enlightenment.