Togakushi Shugendo: A Journey into Japanese Mountain Mysticism
Deep within the rugged mountains of Nagano Prefecture lies a spiritual sanctuary shrouded in mist and myth: Mount Togakushi. Far removed from the neon lights of Tokyo, this sacred peak has been a training ground for ascetics for over a millennium. It is the home of Togakushi Shugendo, a unique blend of indigenous nature worship, Shinto mythology, and esoteric Buddhism. For the modern traveler, a visit here is not just a hike; it is a walk through the corridors of Japan’s spiritual history.
Introduction to Shugendo
Shugendo (修験道) translates literally to “the way of trial and practice.” It is a syncretic religion that emerged during the Heian period, combining the nature worship of ancient Shinto with the magical rituals of Daoism and the metaphysical structures of Buddhism. Practitioners, known as Yamabushi (those who prostrate themselves in the mountains), engage in rigorous physical endurance tests to attain spiritual powers.
While Shugendo centers exist across Japan, Togakushi is distinct. Its majestic avenues of giant cedar trees and formidable cliffs create an atmosphere of profound solemnity, marking it as one of Japan’s most significant power spots.
Origins of the Togakushi Tradition
The roots of Togakushi Shugendo dig deep into the 9th century. According to historical records, the mountain was opened as a religious site by the monk Gakumon, who was said to have been guided there by a miraculous sign. Over the centuries, Togakushi evolved into a major center for Tendai Buddhism, attracting thousands of monks and ascetics who sought enlightenment through the harsh mountain terrain.
During the medieval period, the mountain was a bustling religious complex known as “Togakushi-san 3,000 Bo,” implying it housed 3,000 monks’ dwellings. However, the Meiji Restoration in 1868 brought a government order to separate Shinto and Buddhism (Shinbutsu Bunri). Consequently, the Buddhist temples were converted into the Shinto shrines we see today, though the esoteric flavor of Shugendo rituals remains palpable in the atmosphere.
The Legend of the Hiding Door
The name “Togakushi” (戸隠) literally means “Hiding Door.” This etymology is tied directly to one of Japan’s most famous creation myths found in the Kojiki.
The legend goes that Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess, was once so offended by her brother’s cruel pranks that she hid herself inside a cave, the Ama-no-Iwato, plunging the world into eternal darkness. The other gods gathered to lure her out with a raucous party. When Amaterasu peeked out to see the commotion, the god of immense strength, Ame-no-Tajikarao, grabbed the heavy stone door blocking the cave and hurled it away to prevent her from retreating again.
It is said that the stone door flew across Japan and landed in Nagano, becoming Mount Togakushi. This myth is central to the area’s identity, with the main shrines dedicated to the deities involved in this celestial event.
Modern Culture: Shrines, Soba, and Ninja
Today, the legacy of Togakushi Shugendo survives not only in religious rites but in the local culture. The pilgrimage route connects the Togakushi Gosha (Five Shrines):
- Okusha (Upper Shrine): Dedicated to Tajikarao (the strong god). The path to this shrine is lined with 400-year-old cedar trees, a breathtaking sight that emphasizes the insignificance of man against nature.
- Chusha (Middle Shrine): The center of the village, known for its sacred waterfall.
- Hokosha (Lower Shrine): One of the oldest existing structures in the area.
- Kuzuryusha: Dedicated to a nine-headed dragon deity regarding water and rain.
- Hinomikosha: Dedicated to the god of arts and dance.
Interestingly, the physical discipline of the Yamabushi is closely linked to the Togakure-ryu Ninja. Historically, the stealth and survival skills of mountain ascetics overlapped with ninjutsu. Visitors today can explore the Togakure Ninpo Museum to see this unique intersection of religion and martial arts.
Furthermore, the harsh environment and clean water required for ascetic life are perfect for making Soba (buckwheat noodles). Togakushi Soba is considered one of the top three soba varieties in Japan, traditionally served in small bundles called bocchi-mori.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Togakushi requires some planning to fully appreciate the experience:
- Access: Take a bus from JR Nagano Station (approx. 1 hour). The bus loops through the shrine areas.
- The Hike: The walk to the Okusha (Upper Shrine) is a non-negotiable highlight. It takes about 40 minutes one way on foot from the trailhead. Wear comfortable walking shoes; while the path is flat initially, it involves stone steps near the end.
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring and autumn offer the best weather. The cedar avenue is particularly mystical in the fog or light rain. Winter brings heavy snow, transforming the area into a ski resort, but making shrine access difficult without snowshoes.
- Etiquette: These are active religious sites. Bow slightly before passing through Torii gates and keep voices low, especially along the cedar avenue.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological foundations and historical context of Togakushi Shugendo, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the full account of Amaterasu and the Ama-no-Iwato legend.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides parallel historical narratives regarding the Shinto pantheon.
- Engishiki: ancient Japanese governmental regulations that list the shrines of Togakushi.