Japan’s Shugendo Sites: Hike the Path of the Yamabushi
Japan is a land where the divine often resides in nature, but nowhere is this more visceral than in the realm of Shugendo. Far removed from the manicured Zen gardens of Kyoto, Shugendo is a rugged, earth-bound spiritual tradition that seeks enlightenment through physical endurance in the mountains. For the adventurous traveler, visiting a Shugen-reijo (Shugendo sacred site) offers a glimpse into a mystical side of Japan that has survived for over a millennium.
Introduction to the Mountain Path
Shugendo (修験道) translates roughly to “the path of training and testing.” It is a unique Japanese syncretism, blending ancient Shinto mountain worship, Esoteric Buddhism, and elements of Taoism. Its practitioners are known as Yamabushi (those who lie in the mountains). Instantly recognizable by their distinct attire—checkered robes, animal skins, and the resonating sound of the horagai (conch shell trumpet)—the Yamabushi view the mountain not just as a landscape, but as a mandala to be traversed physically and spiritually.
Visiting these sacred sites is not merely a hiking trip; it is an immersion into an ascetic culture that believes supernatural power is gained through exposure to the elements.
Origins of Shugendo
The roots of Shugendo stretch back to the Heian period (794–1185), though its conceptual origins are even older. In ancient Japan, mountains were viewed as the terrifying abodes of the dead and the domains of powerful spirits (kami). While city-dwelling aristocrats feared these peaks, hermits began venturing into them to acquire spiritual power.
The tradition crystallized around the legendary figure En no Gyoja (En the Ascetic), a sorcerer and mystic who reportedly lived in the 7th century. While Buddhism focuses on the afterlife and enlightenment of the mind, and Shinto focuses on purity and harmony with nature, Shugendo bridges the gap. It adopts the Buddhist goal of enlightenment but insists it must be achieved through the Shinto veneration of nature and the physical rigor of climbing steep, dangerous peaks.
The Legend of En no Gyoja
No discussion of Shugendo is complete without the legend of its founder, En no Gyoja. Folklore describes him not merely as a monk, but as a wizard with command over demons. According to legend, En no Gyoja practiced such severe austerities on Mount Katsuragi that he gained the power to manipulate the elements.
The most famous tale involves him subduing two demons, Zenki and Goki, who were terrorizing the local villagers. Rather than destroying them, En no Gyoja bound them to his will, converting them into his loyal servants. These two demons are often depicted flanking him in statues found at Shugendo temples. Another legend claims that he was so powerful he attempted to build a stone bridge between Mount Katsuragi and Mount Kimpusen using only his magic, commanding the mountain spirits to haul the stones. The spirits, ashamed of working during the day, only worked at night, leaving the bridge unfinished—a mythical explanation for the rugged rock formations found in the region today.
Modern Culture and Key Sites
Despite the modernization of Japan, Shugendo is very much alive. In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest among laypeople seeking a disconnect from the digital world.
Dewa Sanzan (The Three Mountains of Dewa)
Located in Yamagata Prefecture, this is perhaps the most accessible site for travelers. The pilgrimage represents a journey of rebirth. Mount Haguro represents the present, Mount Gassan the past (where spirits of the dead dwell), and Mount Yudono the future. Travelers can see Yamabushi performing fire ceremonies (Goma) here.
Mount Omine and the Kumano Kodo
The Kii Peninsula houses the spiritual heart of Shugendo. The trail connecting Yoshino and Kumano (the Omine Okugake Michi) is considered the most difficult and sacred path. It is here that the famous “hanging from the cliff” test of courage takes place, where novices are dangled over a precipice to force a confession of their sins.
Traveler’s Tips for Sacred Sites
Visiting a Shugen-reijo requires more preparation than a standard tourist attraction.
- Respect the Atmosphere: These are active training grounds. If you encounter Yamabushi blowing conch shells or chanting, observe quietly from a distance. Do not interrupt their rituals for photos.
- Gender Restrictions: Be aware that Mount Omine (specifically Mount Sanjo) still maintains a controversial 1,300-year-old ban on women climbing the peak, based on ancient traditions of purity and distraction. However, the surrounding areas and other sites like Dewa Sanzan are open to all.
- Gear Up: Shugendo paths are often jagged, steep, and slippery. Standard sneakers are insufficient; wear proper hiking boots.
- Join a Tour: specialized “Yamabushi Experience” tours are now available in Yamagata, where guides explain the philosophy and lead you through waterfalls and meditation, providing a safe entry point into this esoteric world.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical context of the spirits and deities worshipped in Shugendo, the following ancient texts provide the foundation of Japanese mythology:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the origin stories of the mountain kami.
- The Shoku Nihongi: Contains some of the earliest historical records mentioning En no Gyoja and his banishment due to his alleged magical powers.
- Japanese Journal of Religious Studies: Various academic papers on the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.