Inside the Chise: Traditional Ainu Homes of Hokkaido
When travelers envision the architecture of Japan, images of sloping tile roofs, sliding shoji screens, and Zen gardens typically come to mind. However, venture north to the snowy, rugged expanse of Hokkaido, and you will discover a distinct and ancient architectural lineage that predates modern Japanese borders. This is the Chise, the traditional home of the Ainu, the indigenous people of Japan’s northern regions.
More than just a shelter against the harsh northern winters, the Chise (pronounced chee-seh) is a spiritual sanctuary where the human world intersects with the realm of the Kamuy (gods or spirits). For the culture-focused traveler, understanding the Chise is the key to unlocking the worldview of the Ainu people.
Origins: Architecture Born from Nature
The construction of a Chise is a masterclass in sustainable, locally sourced architecture. Historically, Ainu communities, known as kotan, were built along rivers or coastlines rich in salmon and game. The homes were constructed entirely from natural materials found in the immediate environment, ensuring that when a house eventually decayed, it would return to the earth without leaving a trace.
Structural Design
The framework consists of sturdy wood, often stripped of bark, lashed together with grapevines or tree bark ropes—nails were traditionally never used. The defining feature, however, is the thick thatching. Depending on the region, layers of reed grass (sasa) or bamboo grass were painstakingly woven to create walls and roofs capable of insulating against sub-zero temperatures.
The Sacred Layout
The interior layout of a Chise is strictly standardized. It typically consists of a single large room with a rectangular hearth, or apeoi, sunk into the center of the earthen floor. This hearth is the heart of the home, providing heat, light, and a place for cooking.
Perhaps the most crucial architectural feature is the Rorun-puyar, or the “God’s Window.” Located on the east side of the house opposite the entrance, this window is not for ventilation or viewing the scenery. It is exclusively for the entry and exit of the Kamuy. It is strictly forbidden to look into the house through this window, as it is a breach of the boundary between humans and spirits.
Legend: The House as a Living Spirit
In Ainu cosmology, animism prevails—everything in nature has a spirit. The Chise is no exception. It is not viewed merely as an inanimate object but as a living entity protected by Chise-kor-kamuy, the guardian god of the house.
The Goddess of the Hearth
The spiritual anchor of the Chise is the fire in the central hearth. This fire is the manifestation of Ape-huci-kamuy (the Fire Goddess). She is visualized as an elderly grandmother who watches over the family, mediates between humans and other gods, and ensures the household’s prosperity. No prayer or ritual can be conducted without first addressing the Fire Goddess.
According to oral traditions, the smoke rising from the hearth carries the prayers of the Ainu people up to the heavens. Because of her presence, the hearth is sacred ground; one must never throw trash into the fire or treat it with disrespect, as doing so would offend the grandmother who keeps the family warm.
Modern Culture: Revival and Preservation
For much of the late 19th and 20th centuries, Ainu culture faced suppression under assimilation policies, and the construction of traditional Chise dwindled as modern housing became mandatory. However, recent decades have seen a profound cultural revitalization.
Today, the Chise has transitioned from a standard residence to a symbol of cultural identity and pride. While modern Ainu people live in contemporary housing, the Chise remains the center for ceremonial gatherings, traditional storytelling, and the transmission of the Ainu language. The construction of a new Chise is now often a community event, serving as an educational tool for younger generations to learn the architectural techniques of their ancestors.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Chise
If you are planning a trip to Japan, visiting a Chise is a must for a complete cultural experience. Here is how to do it respectfully:
Where to Visit
- Upopoy (National Ainu Museum and Park): Located in Shiraoi, Hokkaido, this is the premier destination for Ainu culture. It features a reconstructed kotan with several Chise where you can see traditional dances and crafts.
- Nibutani: A valley with a deep Ainu heritage, home to museums and authentic Chise reconstructions.
- Lake Akan Ainu Kotan: A large settlement offering theater performances and traditional crafts.
Etiquette
- The Sacred Window: Never peek through the east-facing window (Rorun-puyar). It is considered highly disrespectful.
- Shoes: Like the rest of Japan, always remove your shoes before stepping onto the raised seating areas, though many Chise have earthen floors where shoes are permitted in specific zones.
- Photography: Always ask for permission before photographing the interior, especially the hearth area.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the history surrounding the indigenous tribes of Japan, consider exploring the following resources:
- The Yukar (Ainu Epic Poems): The primary source of Ainu history and legends, passed down orally.
- Nihon Shoki & Kojiki: While these 8th-century texts focus on the Yamato court’s mythology, they offer some of the earliest written (albeit external and often adversarial) references to the “Emishi”—northern tribes often associated with the ancestors of the Ainu.
- Upopoy National Ainu Museum Archives: For contemporary academic research and architectural diagrams.