Sanja Matsuri: The Heartbeat of Asakusa
If you think of Tokyo as a city of polite reserve and quiet efficiency, you haven’t visited Asakusa during the third weekend of May. For three days, the streets surrounding the ancient Senso-ji Temple explode into a chaotic, rhythmic, and spiritual frenzy known as Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrine Festival). Drawing nearly two million spectators, it is arguably Tokyo’s wildest and most significant Shinto celebration.
From the thunderous beat of taiko drums to the sight of Yakuza members displaying full-body tattoos, Sanja Matsuri is a sensory overload that bridges the gap between ancient Edo tradition and modern Tokyo life.
Origins of the Festival
While Asakusa is famous for the Buddhist temple Senso-ji, Sanja Matsuri is actually a Shinto festival held in honor of the adjacent Asakusa Shrine. The festival dates back several centuries, with its current form solidifying during the Edo Period (1603–1868).
The name “Sanja” translates to “Three Shrines,” though it specifically refers to the three deities (kami) enshrined within Asakusa Shrine. Unlike many festivals that celebrate distant mythological gods, Sanja Matsuri celebrates three ordinary mortals who were elevated to divine status due to their pivotal role in the founding of Asakusa’s spiritual center.
The Legend of the Three Fishermen
The story begins in the year 628 AD, on a morning shrouded in mist along the Sumida River. Two brothers, Hinokuma Hamanari and Hinokuma Takenari, were fishing when they hauled up a strange object in their net. Rather than a fish, they had caught a golden statue.
Confused, they threw it back, only to catch it again and again as they moved their boat. Eventually, they brought the statue to the village headman and intellectual, Haji no Nakatomo. He identified the statue as the Bodhisattva Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Moved by this discovery, the three men dedicated their lives to worshipping this Kannon, leading to the founding of Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple.
After their deaths, the two brothers and the headman were enshrined as kami in the Asakusa Shrine. The festival is a yearly commemoration of these three founding fathers, allowing their spirits to roam the streets of the district they helped build.
Modern Culture and the “Tama-furi”
Sanja Matsuri is renowned for its intensity. The highlight is the parading of the mikoshi (portable shrines). There are over 100 smaller neighborhood mikoshi and three colossal “main” mikoshi belonging to the shrine itself.
The Three Days of Chaos
- Friday: The festival opens with the Daigyoretsu, a grand parade of priests, geisha, musicians, and dancers dressed in Edo-period costumes. It is dignified and ceremonial.
- Saturday: Over 100 mikoshi from the 44 surrounding neighborhoods parade through the streets to receive blessings. This is a day of community pride.
- Sunday: The climax. The three massive shrine mikoshi (representing the three founders) leave the shrine. The streets are packed shoulder-to-shoulder.
A unique aspect of Sanja Matsuri is the concept of Tama-furi (soul shaking). The bearers do not carry the shrines smoothly; they aggressively jolt and bounce the mikoshi. This violent motion is believed to intensify the power of the kami inside, spreading luck and warding off evil spirits. The chanting of “Soiya! Soiya!” creates a trance-like atmosphere.
This festival is also one of the few times the Yakuza (Japanese organized crime syndicates) operate visibly in public. Members often strip down to their loincloths to display their intricate irezumi (full-body tattoos) while carrying their own mikoshi, a tradition that has become a photogenic, albeit intimidating, part of the festival’s lore.
Traveler’s Tips for Sanja Matsuri
Attending Sanja Matsuri requires stamina and preparation. Here is how to survive and enjoy the weekend:
- Arrive Early: If you want to see the main mikoshi leave the shrine on Sunday, you must be there by 6:00 AM. The crowds are immense.
- Dress Appropriately: Wear comfortable sneakers. You will be on your feet for hours, and open-toed shoes result in trampled toes.
- Respect the Mikoshi: Never touch the portable shrine or get in the way of the bearers. A mikoshi can weigh over a ton; if the bearers stumble, it is dangerous. Furthermore, it is a sacred religious object.
- Stay Hydrated: May in Tokyo can be surprisingly warm. Convenience stores will be packed, so bring water with you.
- Book Accommodation Ahead: Asakusa hotels fill up months in advance. Consider staying in Ueno or Akihabara and taking the train in.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the spiritual depth of Japanese festivals, one looks to the foundational texts of Shinto.
- The Asakusa-dera Engi: The specific scroll detailing the history of Senso-ji and the legend of the three fishermen.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) & Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While these 8th-century texts describe the creation of the Japanese archipelago and the lineage of the Imperial family, they establish the concept of kami and the relationship between humanity and the divine which is central to the rituals performed during Sanja Matsuri.
- Asakusa Shrine Official Records: For precise scheduling and historical dates regarding the festival’s evolution.