The Enigmatic Koshin Stone Pagodas: A Journey into Japanese Folk Faith
If you have ever wandered through the rural backstreets of Japan or explored the quiet corners of historic temple grounds, you may have noticed weathered stone slabs standing silently by the roadside. Often covered in moss and eroded by centuries of rain, these are not merely grave markers or decorative statues. They are Koshin-to (Koshin Stone Pagodas), the physical remnants of a fascinating, somewhat eerie folk faith that once captivated the entire nation.
For the culturally curious traveler, understanding these stones unlocks a hidden layer of Japanese history—one involving internal parasites, sleepless vigils, and the famous Three Wise Monkeys.
Origins of the Koshin Faith
The Koshin faith (Koshin-shinko) is a prime example of Japan’s religious syncretism, blending elements of Taoism, Buddhism, Shinto, and folk superstitions. While the practice has roots in Chinese Taoism, it evolved into a uniquely Japanese phenomenon after arriving in the Heian period (794–1185).
Originally, the rituals were exclusive to the aristocracy, who would spend specific nights writing poetry and engaging in quiet contemplation. However, by the Edo period (1603–1867), the practice had spread to the common people, transforming into a communal event known as the Koshin-ko. Villagers would form fraternities and gather to erect these stone pagodas as testaments to their devotion and to protect their communities from misfortune. The central icon carved onto these stones changed over time, eventually settling on Shomen-Kongo, a fierce, blue-faced Buddhist deity believed to ward off diseases and demons.
The Legend of the Three Corpses
The mythology driving the Koshin faith is both captivating and terrifying. It centers on the Taoist concept of the Sanshi (Three Corpses), three worm-like spirits said to dwell inside every human body.
According to the legend, these spirits are essentially divine spies. They reside in the head, chest, and abdomen, monitoring the host’s sins and bad deeds. However, they are trapped inside the body while the host is awake. Their opportunity to escape arises only on the night of Koshin (Kanoe-Saru), which occurs once every 60 days according to the Chinese zodiac calendar.
On this specific night, if the host falls asleep, the Three Corpses crawl out of the body and ascend to heaven to report the person’s transgressions to the Heavenly Emperor (Tentei). Based on these reports, the Emperor shortens the person’s lifespan. To prevent this, believers developed a simple yet exhausting countermeasure: stay awake all night.
This led to the tradition of Koshin-machi (Koshin waiting), where villagers would gather in a designated house, drinking sake, chanting, and chatting until dawn to ensure the worms remained trapped and no reports could be made.
Modern Culture and the Three Monkeys
While the all-night vigils have largely vanished from modern Japan, the iconography of the Koshin faith remains globally recognizable. The most famous symbol associated with these stones is the Three Wise Monkeys: Mizaru (see no evil), Kikazaru (hear no evil), and Iwazaru (speak no evil).
Why monkeys? The connection is linguistic and calendrical. The “shin” in Koshin refers to the Monkey sign in the zodiac (Saru). Furthermore, the Japanese word for monkey (saru) sounds exactly like the negative verb ending (-zaru). Thus, the monkeys became visual puns for the prohibition against seeing, hearing, or speaking of others’ faults—a moral code strictly encouraged to avoid sinning before the Koshin night.
Today, you can see these monkeys carved at the base of many Koshin pagodas, often beneath the feet of the fierce Shomen-Kongo.
Traveler’s Tips: How to Spot a Koshin Stone
Hunting for Koshin stones can add a treasure-hunt element to your travels in Japan. Here is how to identify them:
- Check Intersections: Koshin stones were traditionally placed at village borders or crossroads (tsuji) to block evil spirits from entering the town. Look for stones at older intersections in residential neighborhoods.
- Identify the Iconography: Look for a central multi-armed deity (Shomen-Kongo) often holding a rooster and a hen, or simply the Three Monkeys carved near the base. Some older stones are simple pillars with the characters “庚申塔” (Koshin-to) chiseled into them.
- Respect the Site: These stones are still considered sacred. It is common to see fresh flowers or coins placed before them. Do not touch or climb on the stones, and treat them with the same respect you would a statue in a temple.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical roots of Japan’s calendar systems and religious imports, the following texts and concepts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While not detailing the Koshin folk rituals of the Edo period, this classical text (along with the Kojiki) documents the early adoption of the Chinese calendar system (sexagenary cycle) in Japan, which is the foundation of the Koshin (Kanoe-Saru) day tracking.
- Taoist Roots: Research the Baopuzi by Ge Hong for the original Chinese descriptions of the Three Corpses concept.
- Japanese Folklore Studies: Works by Yanagita Kunio often touch upon the significance of stone monuments and village fraternities (ko) in rural Japan.