Katatagae: The Ancient Japanese Art of Direction Avoidance
Imagine planning a trip to the northern mountains, only to be told by a spiritual advisor that traveling North today will bring ruin upon your family. The solution? Travel West first, stay the night, and approach the North from a different angle the next morning. This roundabout method of navigation is known as Katatagae (方違え), or “direction changing.”
While it may sound like a minor inconvenience to the modern traveler, in the Heian period of Japan (794–1185), this practice dictated the movements of emperors, aristocrats, and lovers alike. It is a fascinating intersection of geography, astronomy, and superstition that continues to whisper through Japanese culture today.
The Origins: When the Compass Ruled Fate
Katatagae is rooted in Onmyodo (The Way of Yin and Yang), a traditional Japanese esoteric cosmology inspired by ancient Chinese theories of the Five Elements. During the Heian period, the aristocracy believed that specific deities occupied different compass directions on specific days, seasons, or years.
These deities were not static. They migrated. If a terrifying deity like Konjin (the Metal God) was residing in the East, traveling directly East was strictly forbidden. Doing so would invite illness, political misfortune, or death.
However, life had to go on. Officials had to attend court, and nobles had to visit estates. The Onmyoji (practitioners of Onmyodo) devised Katatagae as a loophole. By traveling in a safe direction to a “limit point” (mono-imi-no-tagae) and lodging there overnight, the traveler effectively reset their starting point. The following day, the destination would lie in a different, safe compass direction relative to the temporary lodging.
Legend and Literature: The Romance of Detours
The practice of Katatagae is heavily documented in classical Japanese literature, most notably in The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari). In this literary masterpiece, the protagonist, Hikaru Genji, frequently uses direction avoidance as a convenient excuse—or a genuine necessity—to facilitate his romantic escapades.
In the courtly world, claiming that one’s home lay in an “unlucky direction” for the evening was a socially acceptable reason to stay elsewhere. Genji often used this to visit the homes of his lovers without arousing suspicion from his main household.
The superstition was so potent that it influenced architecture and city planning. The Heian capital (modern-day Kyoto) was designed with spiritual protection in mind, but individuals still had to navigate the invisible minefield of directional deities daily. The diary literature of the time, such as the Kagerou Nikki (The Gossamer Years), details the frustration and exhaustion noblewomen felt when forced to uproot their households in the middle of the night to avoid a sudden shift in directional luck.
Modern Culture: Does the Superstition Survive?
While modern Japanese citizens do not check the location of the god Konjin before their morning commute, the legacy of Katatagae persists in subtle, cultural habits.
Moving House (Hikkoshi)
One of the strongest remnants is found in real estate and moving. Many Japanese people still consult the calendar for Rokuyo (lucky and unlucky days) and directional charts before moving into a new home. If a move must be made in a “bad” direction, some traditionalists still practice a simplified form of Katatagae—moving to a temporary location or staying in a hotel in a neutral direction before settling into the new residence.
Setsubun and Eho-maki
The most famous modern celebration of direction is Setsubun (the bean-throwing festival). On this day, people eat a large sushi roll called Eho-maki. They must eat it in silence while facing the Eho (the lucky direction of the year). This is the inverse of Katatagae; rather than avoiding the bad, one actively aligns with the good.
Yakudoshi (Years of Calamity)
At critical ages (such as 25, 42, and 61 for men; 19, 33, and 37 for women), Japanese people undergo purification rituals. These “critical years” are spiritually treacherous, much like the unlucky directions of the past, requiring careful navigation of one’s life choices.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the History
For the culture-focused traveler, the concept of Katatagae offers a unique lens through which to view Kyoto. You can physically visit the sites dedicated to this protection.
- Visit Jonangu Shrine (Kyoto): This is the premier destination for direction avoidance. Located in the southern part of Kyoto, it was historically a place where aristocrats would perform Katatagae. Today, it is famous for Hoyo-yoke (protection from bad directions). Travelers and construction companies alike flock here to buy amulets and receive blessings before big trips or building projects.
- Buy a Directional Amulet: Look for omamori (charms) specifically designed for travel safety and directional protection. They make excellent, culturally significant souvenirs.
- Walk the Heian Grid: As you wander the grid-like streets of Kyoto, remember that you are walking a board game of ancient taboos. The layout is not just urban planning; it is a spiritual map.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the spiritual mechanics behind Katatagae, the following texts and historical records are essential:
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): By Murasaki Shikibu. Offers the best contextual examples of how directional taboos affected daily aristocrat life.
- The Gossamer Years (Kagerou Nikki): Provides a non-fiction, diary perspective on the inconveniences of Heian superstitions.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While focusing on mythology and history, it lays the groundwork for the introduction of Yin-Yang philosophy to Japan.
- Shoku Nihongi: Contains early records of the Bureau of Onmyodo, the government agency responsible for these divinations.