Kamo Shrines: The Spiritual Guardians of Kyoto
When travelers dream of Kyoto, they often picture the Golden Pavilion or the endless torii gates of Fushimi Inari. However, predating the establishment of Kyoto as the imperial capital are the Kamo Shrines (Kamo-jinja). Collectively comprising Kamigamo Shrine (Upper Kamo) and Shimogamo Shrine (Lower Kamo), these UNESCO World Heritage Sites represent the spiritual bedrock of Japan’s ancient capital.
Nestled in ancient forests and bordered by clear rivers, the Kamo Shrines offer a profound glimpse into Shinto animism, imperial history, and the enduring power of nature.
Origins: Guardians of the North
The history of the Kamo Shrines stretches back over 1,300 years, making them older than Kyoto (Heian-kyo) itself. They were originally founded by the Kamo clan, a powerful family that dominated the area before the Emperor moved the capital there in 794 AD.
When the capital was established, the Kamo Shrines became the official protectors of the city. Specifically, they were tasked with guarding the northeast direction—known as the Kimmon or “Demon’s Gate”—historically believed to be the direction from which bad luck and evil spirits enter. Because of this vital spiritual role, the shrines enjoyed immense patronage from the Imperial Court for centuries. Today, the architecture remains a pristine example of the Nagare-zukuri style, characterized by flowing, asymmetrical roofs that harmonize with the surrounding woods.
The Legend of the Thunder God
Like all great Shinto sites, the Kamo Shrines are steeped in mythology found in ancient chronicles. The shrines are dedicated to a family of deities, but the central legend revolves around Kamo Wakeikazuchi, the Thunder God.
According to the lore recorded in the Yamashiro Fudoki, the daughter of the Kamo clan’s founder, Tamayorihime, was purifying herself in a stream when a red arrow floated down the water. She took the arrow home and placed it by her bedside. Miraculously, she became pregnant and gave birth to a son.
When the child grew up, his grandfather held a banquet and asked the boy to offer wine to his father. The boy looked to the heavens, transformed into a thunderbolt, and ascended into the sky, revealing himself as the deity Kamo Wakeikazuchi. Today, Kamigamo Shrine is dedicated to this Thunder God, while Shimogamo Shrine enshrines his mother and grandfather. The famous sand cones (tatezuna) found at Kamigamo Shrine are said to mimic the shape of the holy mountain where the deity first descended.
Modern Culture & The Aoi Matsuri
While the Kamo Shrines are places of quiet worship for most of the year, they explode with color and pageantry every May during the Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival). As one of Kyoto’s three major festivals, it is a spectacle of living history.
The highlight is a grand procession of over 500 people dressed in authentic Heian-period aristocratic costumes. They march from the Imperial Palace to Shimogamo and finally to Kamigamo Shrine. The participants, horses, and ox-carts are adorned with aoi (hollyhock) leaves, symbolizing protection against natural disasters.
Beyond the festival, the shrines are cultural hubs. Shimogamo Shrine is located within the Tadasu no Mori (Forest of Correction), a primeval forest that has survived in the middle of the modern city. It is a popular spot for weddings, and curiously, hosts the “Rugby Shrine,” attracting athletes praying for victory.
Traveler’s Tips
To make the most of your visit to the Kamo Shrines, consider the following advice:
Best Time to Visit
If you can handle the crowds, visiting on May 15th for the Aoi Matsuri is unforgettable. However, for a contemplative experience, visit in late autumn (late November) when the Tadasu no Mori forest turns a vibrant mix of gold and crimson.
Getting There and Around
- Shimogamo Shrine: Located at the junction of the Takano and Kamo rivers. It is a short walk from Demachiyanagi Station. Take time to walk through the forest approach; it is said to purify the soul before reaching the main hall.
- Kamigamo Shrine: Located several kilometers north. It is best reached by bus from Kyoto Station or Demachiyanagi Station.
What to Look For
- The Tatezuna: At Kamigamo Shrine, look for the two cones of white sand. These are the origins of the salt piles often seen at the entrance of Japanese restaurants to ward off evil.
- Mitarashi Pond: Located in Shimogamo Shrine, this spring-fed pond is the origin of Mitarashi Dango (sweet soy glaze dumplings). There are tea houses nearby where you can taste the authentic snack.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese mythology and the Kamo clan, the following texts are essential:
- The Yamashiro Fudoki: An ancient report on the culture and geography of the Yamashiro province (modern-day Kyoto), which contains the primary legend of the Red Arrow and the Thunder God.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Though it covers the broader creation myths of Japan, it provides the context for the Shinto pantheon worshipped at these shrines.
- The Tale of Genji: Written by Murasaki Shikibu, this classic literature features scenes set during the Aoi Matsuri, highlighting the shrine’s importance in 11th-century court life.