The Kamo Clan: Guardians of Kyoto’s Ancient Shrines
When travelers wander through the verdant paths of the Tadasu no Mori forest in Kyoto, they are walking on ground that has been sacred for millennia. Before the emperors claimed Kyoto as their capital, this land belonged to the Kamo clan (賀茂氏). As one of ancient Japan’s most influential priestly lineages, the Kamo family did not just serve the gods; they helped define the spiritual landscape of the nation. For the modern cultural traveler, understanding the Kamo clan is the key to unlocking the secrets of Kyoto’s oldest and most revered sites.
Origins of the Sacred Lineage
The history of the Kamo clan is as complex as the roots of the ancient trees surrounding their shrines. Historians generally distinguish between two main branches: the Tenjin (Heavenly) Kamo and the Chijin (Earthly) Kamo. While the Heavenly branch was based in the Katsuragi area, it was the Earthly branch, settled in the Yamashiro province (modern-day Kyoto), that rose to immense prominence.
The Yamashiro Kamo were the original inhabitants of the area before Emperor Kammu moved the capital to Heian-kyo (Kyoto) in 794 AD. Recognizing the spiritual power held by the local chieftains, the Imperial Court integrated the Kamo into the aristocracy. They were entrusted with the high priesthood of the Kamo Shrines. Over centuries, the clan expanded its influence beyond mere ritual, eventually producing masters of Onmyodo (Japanese cosmology and divination), most notably Kamo no Tadayuki and his son Yasunori, who taught the legendary Abe no Seimei.
The Legend of the Three-Legged Crow
To understand the Kamo clan, one must look to the skies—specifically, to the legend of the Yatagarasu. In Japanese mythology, the Yatagarasu is a three-legged crow representing the sun and divine intervention. According to the Nihon Shoki, the clan’s ancestor, Kamo no Taketsunomi, transformed into this great crow to guide the mythical first Emperor, Jimmu, through the treacherous mountains of Kumano to the Yamato plain.
Another central legend involves the birth of the deity worshipped at the Kamigamo Shrine, Wakeikazuchi. As the story goes, a daughter of the Kamo clan was purifying herself by a stream when a red arrow floated down the water. She took it home, and shortly after, became pregnant by the divine spirit within the arrow. She gave birth to a son who ascended to the heavens, becoming the thunder god Wakeikazuchi. These myths cemented the clan’s status as the intermediaries between the human realm and the powerful nature gods of thunder and sun.
Modern Culture: The Aoi Matsuri and Onmyodo
The legacy of the Kamo clan is not a relic of the past; it breathes life into Kyoto every May during the Aoi Matsuri (Hollyhock Festival). This is one of Kyoto’s three major festivals, originating in the 6th century to appease the Kamo deities during a time of famine and plague. Today, a procession of over 500 people dressed in authentic Heian-period aristocratic regalia walks from the Imperial Palace to the Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines. The participants, including the Sai-o-dai (a heroine representing the imperial princess), adorn their costumes with aoi (hollyhock) leaves, the emblem of the Kamo clan.
Furthermore, the clan’s connection to Onmyodo has seen a resurgence in Japanese pop culture. Anime, manga, and films featuring onmyoji (yin-yang masters) often reference the Kamo family’s rivalry and partnership with the Abe clan, fascinating a new generation with stories of shikigami spirits and magical barriers.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Kamo Shrines
To truly connect with the Kamo legacy, a visit to their ancestral shrines is mandatory. Both are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Shimogamo Shrine (Kamo-mioya-jinja)
Located at the junction of the Kamo and Takano rivers, this shrine is surrounded by the Tadasu no Mori, a primeval forest that has survived for centuries. It is an incredibly atmospheric spot for a morning walk. Look for the small subsidiary shrine Kawai Jinja, famous for beauty prayers.
Kamigamo Shrine (Kamo-wakeikazuchi-jinja)
Located a few kilometers north, this shrine is known for the two cones of white sand (tatezuna) in front of the main hall, which serve as mountains for the deities to descend upon. It is generally quieter than other major Kyoto spots, offering a serene experience.
Pro Tip: If you visit, look for amulets featuring the three-legged crow (Yatagarasu). It is now the symbol of the Japan Football Association, making these charms popular souvenirs for soccer fans wishing for victory.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical roots of the Kamo clan and their mythology, the following classical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the foundational myths of the Japanese gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Detailed accounts of Emperor Jimmu and the Yatagarasu.
- The Tale of Genji: Contains vivid descriptions of the Kamo Shrine rituals and the Aoi Matsuri as they appeared in the Heian court.
Visiting the Kamo shrines offers more than just sightseeing; it is a pilgrimage into the heart of the spirituality that built Kyoto.