Ise Grand Shrine: A Journey to Japan’s Sacred Soul
When you step onto the gravel paths of the Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu), the air shifts. It is crisp, smelling of ancient cypress and river water. There is a profound silence here, broken only by the crunch of footsteps and the rustling of leaves in the vast sacred forest. Located in Mie Prefecture, this is not merely a tourist destination; it is the spiritual heart of Japan, a sanctuary that has welcomed pilgrims for over two millennia.
Unlike the ornate temples of Kyoto or the neon bustle of Tokyo, Ise Jingu represents Shinto in its purest, most austere form. For the cultural traveler, a visit here is an exploration of the origins of Japanese identity itself.
The Origins: Architecture and Eternal Renewal
Ise Jingu is not a single building but a complex of 125 shrines centered around two main sites: the Inner Shrine (Naiku) and the Outer Shrine (Geku). While the site dates back approximately 2,000 years, the buildings you see today are likely no older than your own home.
This paradox is the result of Shikinen Sengu, a ritual unique to Ise. Every 20 years, the main sanctuary buildings are completely rebuilt from scratch on an adjacent plot of land. The old wood is dismantled and distributed to other shrines across Japan, while new Japanese cypress (hinoki) is used to construct identical structures. This cycle has continued for over 1,300 years, symbolizing the Shinto concept of Tokowaka—eternal youth and vitality. The physical structure changes, but the spirit remains eternal.
The architectural style, known as Shinmei-zukuri, predates the influence of Buddhism in Japan. It is characterized by thatched roofs, unpainted wood, and the use of katsuogi (decorative logs) atop the roof ridge. It is simplicity perfected, designed to harmonize seamlessly with the surrounding nature.
The Legend: Amaterasu and the Sacred Mirror
To understand Ise, one must understand the mythology that built it. The Inner Shrine (Naiku) enshrines Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess and the ancestral deity of the Imperial Family. According to legend, Amaterasu is the source of all light and life in the universe.
The Journey of the Mirror
Historical chronicles state that the sacred mirror, Yata no Kagami—one of the three Imperial Regalia of Japan—was originally kept within the Imperial Palace. However, during the reign of Emperor Suinin (around 4 B.C.E. according to traditional dates), his daughter, Princess Yamatohime-no-mikoto, set out on a journey to find a permanent, peaceful sanctuary for the Sun Goddess.
After years of searching, she arrived in Ise. It is said that Amaterasu spoke to the Princess, saying, “This is a secluded and pleasant land. I wish to dwell here.” Thus, the Inner Shrine was established, and the sacred mirror, believed to house the spirit of the goddess herself, was enshrined deep within the main sanctuary, hidden from human eyes to this day.
Modern Culture: The Pilgrimage of Gratitude
In the Edo period, traveling to Ise was a once-in-a-lifetime dream for the common people, known as O-Ise-mairi. Today, millions of Japanese still make the journey, not necessarily to pray for fortune, but to offer gratitude.
The culture surrounding the shrine is vibrant. Just outside the entrance to Naiku lies Oharaimachi and Okage Yokocho, bustling traditional streets lined with wooden merchant houses. Here, the solemnity of the shrine gives way to the joy of travel. Visitors enjoy local delicacies like Akafuku (sweet bean paste on mochi) and Ise Udon (thick noodles in a rich, dark sauce), maintaining the historical tradition of feasting after worship.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Ise
Visiting Ise Jingu requires a bit of planning to respect local customs and maximize your experience.
1. Follow the Traditional Route
Custom dictates that pilgrims should visit the Geku (Outer Shrine) first, followed by the Naiku (Inner Shrine). The two are located about 6 kilometers apart, but frequent buses connect them.
2. Purification Rituals
Before approaching the main sanctuaries, stop at the Temizuya (water pavilion) to rinse your hands and mouth. At Naiku, you can also purify yourself at the Isuzu River, a serene spot where the clear water reflects the ancient trees.
3. Photography Etiquette
You are free to take photos in most areas of the shrine grounds. However, photography is strictly prohibited directly in front of the main sanctuaries. Watch for signs and respect the boundaries of the sacred space.
4. Dress Conservatively
While there is no strict dress code for general visitors, modest clothing is recommended to show respect. If you plan to participate in a formal prayer (Kagura), business attire is required.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology and history surrounding Ise Grand Shrine, the following classical texts provide the foundational narratives:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle, detailing the creation myths and the lineage of Amaterasu.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers a more detailed historical account of the establishment of the shrine and the Imperial line.
- Jingu Administration Office: The official publications from the shrine provide detailed insights into the rituals of Shikinen Sengu.