Unlocking the Mystery of the Honden: The Heart of Shinto
When travelers visit Japan, the iconic torii gates and serene atmosphere of Shinto shrines often top their itineraries. From the bustling grounds of Meiji Jingu in Tokyo to the mystical forests of Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, these sites offer a profound connection to Japanese culture. However, most visitors unknowingly stop short of the most important structure on the grounds. They offer prayers at the Haiden (Worship Hall), but the true spiritual core lies just behind it, often hidden from view: the Honden (Main Hall).
As the exclusive sanctuary of the deity, the Honden represents the ultimate mystery of Shintoism. It is a space of silence, purity, and ancient tradition that remains closed to the public, preserving the sanctity of the Kami (gods) residing within.
Origins: From Nature to Architecture
The concept of the Honden did not exist in the earliest forms of Shinto. In ancient Japan, worship was directed toward nature itself—sacred rocks (iwakura), towering trees (himorogi), or mountains. The Kami were believed to descend temporarily into these natural objects during rituals.
As Japanese society transitioned from hunter-gatherers to wet-rice cultivators, the need for permanent structures arose. The architecture of the Honden evolved primarily from ancient granaries used to store rice. This connection is visible in the raised floor structures, which were originally designed to protect grain from moisture and pests.
Architectural historians classify Honden styles based on their roof shapes and entrance positions. The two most ancient and revered styles are:
- Shinmei-zukuri: Exemplified by the Ise Grand Shrine, this style mimics ancient grain warehouses with a straight, thatched roof and simple, unpainted wood.
- Taisha-zukuri: Seen at the Izumo Taisha, this is believed to represent ancient residential architecture for clan leaders, characterized by its immense height and central pillar.
Legend and the Sacred Vessel
According to Shinto mythology, the Honden is not merely a building; it is a dwelling. However, it does not house a statue in the way a Buddhist temple might house a Buddha. Instead, the Honden contains the Goshintai—the “Sacred Body of the Kami.”
The Goshintai is a physical object that acts as a vessel for the spirit of the deity. It is wrapped in layers of fabric and kept in the innermost chamber of the Honden, never seen by the public, and rarely even by the chief priests. Common Goshintai include mirrors, swords, or jewels—items deeply connected to the Imperial Regalia of Japan.
Historically, texts like the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) describe the construction of “heavenly palaces” for the gods. The Honden is the earthly manifestation of these celestial homes. The legend of Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess, emphasizes the importance of the mirror (Yata no Kagami) as her embodiment, which is enshrined within the Honden of the Inner Shrine at Ise. This establishes the Honden not just as a religious structure, but as the protector of the imperial lineage and the soul of the nation.
Modern Culture and the Hidden Sanctum
In modern Japan, the Honden maintains its status as a forbidden zone. Unlike Western cathedrals where the altar is the visual focal point for the congregation, the Honden is often obscured by a Tamagaki (sacred fence) or heavy curtains.
This separation creates a culture of reverence through distance. During Matsuri (festivals), the Kami is temporarily transferred from the Honden into a Mikoshi (portable shrine) to parade through the town. This is the only time the deity “leaves” the sanctuary to bless the community.
Furthermore, the preservation of these structures involves a unique cultural practice known as Shikinen Sengu at the Ise Grand Shrine. Every 20 years, the Honden is completely rebuilt from scratch on an adjacent plot of land, and the old one is dismantled. This cycle, which has continued for over 1,300 years, ensures that traditional building techniques are passed down to new generations while keeping the dwelling of the gods eternally pure and new.
Traveler’s Tips: How to Respect the Honden
While you cannot enter the Honden, understanding its presence changes how you experience a shrine. Here are tips for the respectful traveler:
- Identify the Structure: When you stand at the Haiden to pray, look behind it. You will often see a smaller, more elaborate building, sometimes fenced off or elevated. That is the Honden.
- Photography Etiquette: It is generally acceptable to take photos of shrine grounds, but many shrines prohibit taking photos directly into the interior of the buildings. If you have a line of sight to the Honden’s doors, avoid using zoom lenses to peer inside.
- Observe the Roof: Look for Chigi (forked finials) and Katsuogi (logs placed horizontally) on the roof of the Honden. These ancient design elements can sometimes indicate the gender of the deity enshrined within (though exceptions exist).
- Prayer Direction: When you bow and clap at the Haiden, remember that you are projecting your gratitude toward the Honden behind it.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Shinto architecture and mythology, the following texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Trans. by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi. Contains the foundational myths of the Kami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers historical context on the establishment of major shrines.
- Shinto: The Kami Way by Sokyo Ono: An excellent primer on shrine structures and rituals.
- Sacred Space in the Modern City (Academic articles regarding Meiji Jingu’s construction).