The Myth of Yomi: Journey to the Japanese Underworld
When travelers think of Japan, images of cherry blossoms, bustling neon streets, and serene Zen gardens usually come to mind. However, beneath the surface of Shinto shrines and ancient festivals lies a darker, more shadowy realm known as Yomi (or Yomi-no-kuni). In Japanese mythology, this is the Land of the Dead, a place of eternal twilight and impurity.
Understanding Yomi is essential for grasping the duality of Japanese spirituality, where the celebration of life sits in stark contrast to the taboo of death. Join us as we descend into the myths of the Shinto underworld and discover where you can visit its legendary entrance today.
Introduction
Japan is often called the Land of the Rising Sun, but every sun must set. In the ancient Shinto worldview, the setting sun dips into a subterranean realm. Yomi is not merely a fairytale; it is a cultural concept that has defined Japanese views on purity, death, and funerals for over a millennium. Unlike the vibrant shrines you might visit in Kyoto, the lore of Yomi is somber, ancient, and deeply fascinating for the culturally curious traveler.
Origins: Not Hell, But the Grave
To understand Yomi, one must first unlearn the Western concept of “Hell.” Unlike the Buddhist concept of Jigoku (which involves judgment, torture, and punishment for sins) or the Christian Hell, Yomi is not inherently a place of penal torture. Instead, it is the land where all souls go upon death, regardless of their moral standing in life.
Derived from ancient texts, the concept of Yomi is deeply tied to kegare (impurity or withering of the spirit). In Shinto belief, death is the ultimate impurity. Yomi is described as a gloomy, subterranean realm separate from the land of the living (Ashihara no Nakatsukuni). It represents stagnation and decay, a stark opposite to the vitality of the living world.
The Legend of Izanagi and Izanami
The most famous story regarding Yomi comes from Japan’s oldest historical record, the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters, 712 AD). It tells the tragic love story of the creator gods, Izanagi and Izanami.
The Descent
After creating the islands of Japan, the goddess Izanami died while giving birth to the fire god, Kagutsuchi. Overcome with grief, her husband, Izanagi, journeyed to Yomi to bring her back. He found her in the shadows and pleaded for her return. She agreed but warned him: “I have already eaten the food of the underworld. Do not look at me.”
The Taboo Broken
Impatient and longing to see his wife, Izanagi broke a tooth from his comb to light a fire. The flickering light revealed a horrific sight: Izanami’s beautiful body was rotting, filled with maggots and surrounded by thunder deities. Ashamed and terrified, Izanagi fled.
Enraged that he had seen her in her impure state, Izanami sent the Yomotsu-shikome (hags of the underworld) and an army of skeletal warriors to chase him. Izanagi barely escaped, throwing personal items like his comb and peaches behind him, which magically transformed into obstacles to slow his pursuers.
The Separation
Izanagi finally reached Yomotsu Hirasaka, the slope serving as the border between the living and the dead. He sealed the entrance with a massive boulder (Chibiki-no-Iwa). From the other side, Izanami cursed him, vowing to kill 1,000 of his people every day. Izanagi retorted that he would ensure 1,500 people were born every day. Thus, the cycle of life and death was established.
Yomi in Modern Culture
The concept of Yomi permeates modern Japanese pop culture, serving as inspiration for countless anime, manga, and video games, keeping the ancient myth alive for new generations.
- Anime & Manga: In the global hit Naruto, powerful techniques are named after these gods (Tsukuyomi, Amaterasu). In Noragami, the characters frequently deal with phantoms from the underworld and the concept of blight (kegare).
- Video Games: The Persona series and Final Fantasy often feature enemies or lore based on the deities and creatures of Yomi.
- Cultural Etiquette: The ancient fear of Yomi’s influence is why salt is used for purification at sumo matches and why funeral attendees in Japan often sprinkle salt on themselves before re-entering their homes—to cleanse the “pollution” of death before returning to daily life.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Entrance to the Underworld
For the adventurous traveler and folklore enthusiast, the mythical entrance to Yomi is not just a story—it is a real geographical location recognized by the Japanese government.
Where to Go
The legendary boundary, Yomotsu Hirasaka, is located in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. Shimane is known as the “Land of the Gods” and is home to Izumo Taisha, one of Japan’s oldest and most important shrines.
What to Expect
- The Atmosphere: The site is deceptively simple. It is a quiet, wooded area marked by a stone monument and a small Torii gate. A path leads to large boulders that represent the rocks Izanagi used to seal the underworld.
- The Vibe: Even for skeptics, the air here feels heavy and still. It is located near the Iya Shrine, adding to the spiritual gravity of the area. It stands in stark contrast to the bright, tourist-heavy shrines of Tokyo.
- Etiquette: This is not a typical tourist attraction. It is a place connected to death and separation. Be respectful. Do not be loud, and avoid visiting at night (local superstition suggests the barrier between worlds is thinner then).
- Getting There: It is best accessed by car or taxi, located about 15 minutes from Higashi-Matsue Station.
Sources & Further Reading
To dive deeper into the mythology of Yomi, the following classical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): The oldest chronicle in Japan, detailing the creation myths.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): The second-oldest book of classical Japanese history, offering slightly different variations of the Yomi myths.
- Basil Hall Chamberlain’s Translation: For English speakers, this remains one of the most accessible translations of the Kojiki, providing context to the archaic poetry and prose.