The White Robe: Understanding Japan’s Pilgrim Hakui
If you have ever hiked the ancient trails of the Kumano Kodo or visited the eighty-eight temples of Shikoku, you have undoubtedly seen them: figures dressed in stark white, walking sticks in hand, standing out against the deep cedar greens of the Japanese forest. These wanderers are wearing the Hakui (白衣), the traditional white vestment of the Japanese pilgrim.
While it may look like simple cotton clothing to the uninitiated, the Hakui is a profound spiritual symbol. It transforms a tourist into an Ohenro (pilgrim), signaling to the world—and the spirits—that the wearer has embarked on a sacred journey of transformation.
Origins: The Shroud of the Living
To understand the Hakui, one must look back to the Heian period and the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism. In Japan, white has long been the color of purity and holiness, worn by Shinto priests during rituals to distinguish themselves from the profane world.
However, the specific usage of the white robe in pilgrimage carries a heavier, more somber history. Historically, the Hakui is synonymous with the Kyokatabira, or burial shroud. Centuries ago, embarking on the Shikoku Pilgrimage or scaling the holy peaks of Shugendo mountain ascetics was a life-threatening endeavor. Bandits, wolves, treacherous terrain, and disease meant that many pilgrims never returned home.
By wearing all white, pilgrims were signaling their acceptance of death. If they succumbed to the elements on the trail, they were already dressed for their funeral, ready to be buried where they fell. Thus, the Hakui represents a symbolic death of the ego and the old self, allowing the pilgrim to be reborn through the hardships of the journey.
Legend: Dogyo Ninin and Kobo Daishi
The most enduring legend associated with the Hakui, particularly on the Shikoku pilgrimage, is the concept of Dogyo Ninin (同行二人), meaning “Two Traveling Together.”
According to folklore, the pilgrim is never truly alone. The spirit of Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism and the father of the Shikoku pilgrimage, walks beside every pilgrim. The white robe serves as a uniform for this spiritual partnership.
The Red Stamps of the Pure Land
While many pilgrims carry a separate stamp book (Nokyocho), some choose to have the red vermillion stamps and calligraphy from each temple inked directly onto the back of their Hakui. Legend suggests that a robe covered in these sacred seals acts as a passport to the Pure Land. It is believed that if a person is cremated wearing a Hakui filled with stamps from all 88 temples, their transition to the afterlife is guided by the merits of the Buddhas depicted in the ink.
Modern Culture: A Uniform of Equality
In modern Japan, the roads are paved and the wolves are gone, yet the Hakui remains an essential part of the pilgrimage experience. Its function, however, has evolved from a death shroud to a symbol of equality and community identification.
Once a pilgrim dons the white robe, social status evaporates. Whether you are a CEO from Tokyo, a student, or a retiree, you are simply an Ohenro. This uniformity encourages a unique social dynamic on the trail.
Furthermore, the Hakui acts as a beacon for Osettai (alms/gifts). Locals in Shikoku have a centuries-old tradition of giving food, money, or lodging to pilgrims as an act of charity. The white robe identifies who is eligible for this kindness. It creates a visible bond of trust between the walker and the local community, keeping the ancient culture of hospitality alive.
Traveler’s Tips: Wearing the Hakui
If you are planning a pilgrimage in Japan, here is how to handle the Hakui with respect:
- Where to Buy: You can purchase a Hakui at the first temple of any major pilgrimage route (such as Ryozen-ji in Shikoku) or at specialized pilgrimage supply shops. They come in sleeveless (vest style) and long-sleeve versions. The sleeveless vest is popular for hiking in warmer months.
- How to Wear: The Hakui is worn over your regular hiking clothes. Unlike a kimono, which is strictly wrapped left-over-right (unless the wearer is deceased), the Hakui is generally worn left-over-right as well, though strict rules have relaxed for foreign hikers. However, always ensure it is tidy.
- Sacred Garment: If you choose to receive stamps directly on the robe, do not wash it. The ink represents the deity of the temple; washing it is considered washing away the blessings. If you wear a stamped robe, it is strictly for ceremonial use or the actual walking, not for lounging at your inn.
- After the Journey: Many pilgrims keep their Hakui as a family heirloom or save it for their own funeral rites. It is not a souvenir to be worn casually after the trip is over.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and textual background of Japanese spiritual garments and purification rituals, the following texts and resources are recommended:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For early context on the significance of the color white and purification rituals (misogi) in Japanese mythology.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A seminal English text that details the history and legends of the Shikoku 88 temples.
- Kukai: Major Works: To understand the philosophy of the man who inspired the “Two Traveling Together” legend.
- Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide: The standard modern guidebook for walkers, offering practical etiquette on wearing the Hakui.