The Shikoku Pilgrimage: Walking with Kobo Daishi
Japan is a land of ancient traditions, but few are as physically and spiritually demanding as the Shikoku Henro, or the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Spanning the circumference of the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, this 1,200-kilometer (750-mile) circuit connects 88 sacred temples. For over a millennium, pilgrims known as henro have walked this path in search of enlightenment, healing, or repentance.
While modern transportation has changed how many approach the journey, the essence of the pilgrimage remains a profound dive into the heart of Japanese spirituality and hospitality.
Origins of the Sacred Path
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is inextricably linked to one of the most significant figures in Japanese history: Kūkai, posthumously known as Kōbō Daishi (774–835). Born in Zentsū-ji (Temple 75) in Shikoku, Kūkai founded Shingon Buddhism after returning from studies in Tang Dynasty China.
Historically, the route was not established all at once. In the centuries following Kūkai’s death, ascetic monks began training in the rugged mountains of Shikoku, tracing the steps where the Great Master once practiced. By the Edo period (1603–1868), the pilgrimage had evolved from a strictly ascetic training ground for monks into a popular journey for commoners. The route is traditionally divided into four stages corresponding to the four prefectures of Shikoku, symbolizing a spiritual progression: Awakening (Tokushima), Ascetic Training (Kochi), Enlightenment (Ehime), and Nirvana (Kagawa).
Legend and the Spirit of Kobo Daishi
The central tenet of the pilgrimage is Dogyo Ninin, which translates to “Two Traveling Together.” Even if a pilgrim walks alone, they are believed to be accompanied by the spirit of Kobo Daishi. This is why pilgrims carry a walking stick (kongō-zue), which represents the body of the Master; it is treated with the utmost respect, having its “feet” washed at the end of every day.
One of the most enduring legends of the trail is that of Emon Saburo. According to folklore, Saburo was a wealthy but greedy man who broke the begging bowl of a wandering monk (Kobo Daishi). Tragedy subsequently befell Saburo’s family, with all eight of his sons dying. Realizing the monk was Kūkai, Saburo set out to walk the island in search of him to beg for forgiveness. He walked the circumference of the island twenty times clockwise without success. Finally, on his twenty-first lap, he walked counter-clockwise and collapsed from exhaustion near Temple 12. Legend holds that Kūkai appeared to him on his deathbed, absolving him of his sins.
Modern Culture and Osettai
Today, the Shikoku Pilgrimage is a unique blend of solemn devotion and modern hiking culture. While the “walking henro” (aruki-henro) are the most traditional, many pilgrims now use buses, cars, or bikes to complete the circuit. Regardless of the mode of transport, the visual identity of the pilgrim remains consistent: a white vest (hakui), a conical sedge hat (sugegasa), and a white stole (wagesa).
Perhaps the most beautiful aspect of the modern pilgrimage is the culture of osettai. Locals in Shikoku have a long tradition of supporting pilgrims. As you walk through villages or along rice paddies, strangers may approach you with gifts—oranges, tea, onigiri, or even a place to sleep. This is not merely charity; giving osettai is a way for locals to connect with Kobo Daishi through the pilgrim. It is considered impolite to refuse these gifts, as the exchange is a spiritual transaction benefiting both the giver and the receiver.
Traveler’s Tips for the Henro
Embarking on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, whether for a few days or the full six weeks required to walk it, requires preparation.
- Best Time to Go: The most favorable seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November). Shikoku summers are brutally hot and humid, while winters can see snow in the mountain passes.
- The Gear: You do not need to be a Buddhist to wear the white vest. In fact, wearing the traditional gear identifies you to locals, ensuring you receive help if you get lost and inviting the warmth of osettai.
- Temple Etiquette: At each temple, the routine is specific: bow at the gate, wash your hands, ring the bell, light incense and a candle, offer a slip of paper (osame-fuda), chant the Heart Sutra, and finally, get your stamp book (nōkyōchō) signed. The calligraphy stamps are stunning works of art and serve as proof of your journey.
- Accommodation: Bookings are essential, especially during peak seasons. Options range from minshuku (family guesthouses) and hotels to tsuyado (free lodging provided by temples).
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and mythological roots of Japan that set the stage for such pilgrimages, the ancient texts provide essential context. The creation of the island of Shikoku itself is detailed in Japan’s oldest chronicle.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Describes the mythological birth of the Japanese islands, including Shikoku (referred to as Iyo-no-futa-ana-no-shima).
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A classic English text that offers a narrative history of the route.
- Kūkai: Major Works: Translated by Yoshito S. Hakeda, for insight into the philosophy of the man behind the journey.