Shikoku Henro: Walking Japan’s Sacred 88 Temple Pilgrimage
In the misty mountains and rugged coastlines of Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, a spiritual journey unfolds that has captivated hearts for over a millennium. This is the Shikoku Henro (Shikoku Pilgrimage), a circular route spanning approximately 1,200 kilometers and connecting 88 sacred temples.
Unlike the linear pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, the Henro is a loop—a symbol of the cycle of rebirth and the endless pursuit of enlightenment. Those who walk this path are affectionately known as Ohenro-san. Dressed in distinctive white vests and conical sedge hats, they are not merely tourists; they are walking artifacts of a living tradition that blends breathtaking nature with profound introspection.
Origins of the Sacred Path
The Shikoku Henro is inextricably linked to Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), one of the most influential figures in Japanese history and the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Born in Shikoku in 774 CE, Kobo Daishi is said to have trained in these mountains, performing ascetic rituals to achieve enlightenment.
While the exact date of the pilgrimage’s formal establishment is debated, it solidified during the Heian Period (794–1185). Initially, it was a rigorous training ground for ascetic monks (yamabushi). However, by the Edo Period (1603–1867), as travel restrictions eased and the populace sought salvation from worldly suffering, the route opened to commoners. The path connects 88 main temples, each representing a stage of spiritual progression: Awakening, Asceticism, Enlightenment, and Nirvana.
Legend: Dogyo Ninin
The heart of the Henro philosophy is encapsulated in the phrase Dogyo Ninin (同行二人), which translates to “Two traveling together.” Even if an Ohenro-san walks entirely alone, they are never truly solitary; the spirit of Kobo Daishi is believed to accompany them every step of the way.
One of the most enduring legends associated with the trail is the story of Emon Saburo. According to folklore, Saburo was a wealthy but greedy man who broke the begging bowl of a traveling monk—who was actually Kobo Daishi in disguise. Following this act, Saburo’s eight sons died one by one. Realizing his sin, he set out to circle Shikoku in reverse to find the monk and beg for forgiveness. He eventually collapsed on his deathbed, where Kobo Daishi appeared to absolve him. This legend is often cited as the origin of the gyaku-uchi tradition—walking the pilgrimage in reverse order, which is considered three times more difficult and spiritually rewarding.
Modern Culture: The Spirit of Osettai
Today, the Shikoku Henro is a unique blend of ancient piety and modern adventure. While some pilgrims still walk the entire route (taking 40 to 60 days), many modern Ohenro-san use tour buses, cars, or a combination of transport modes. There is no judgment on how one completes the circuit; the intention is what matters.
A defining feature of the Henro culture is Osettai—the custom of giving gifts to pilgrims. Locals often offer food, drinks, or even lodging to walking pilgrims. Refusing osettai is considered rude, as the giver is making an offering to Kobo Daishi through the pilgrim. This culture of hospitality creates a profound bond between the traveler and the local community, turning the pilgrimage into a lesson in gratitude and human kindness.
Traveler’s Tips for the Henro
Embarking on the Henro requires preparation, whether you plan to walk a section or the entire loop.
- The Gear: While you don’t need to be a Buddhist, wearing the Hakui (white vest) identifies you as a pilgrim, inviting osettai and local assistance. A Sugegasa (sedge hat) and Kongozue (walking stick) are also standard. The stick represents the body of Kobo Daishi and must be treated with respect.
- The Seasons: The best times to walk are Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November). Shikoku summers are incredibly hot and humid, while winters in the mountains can be freezing.
- Accommodation: Pilgrims can stay in Shukubo (temple lodgings), Minshuku (family-run guesthouses), or business hotels. Booking ahead is essential during peak seasons.
- Etiquette: At each temple, there is a ritual of bowing, washing hands, ringing the bell, offering candles and incense, and chanting sutras. You will also collect a calligraphy stamp (Goshuin) in your stamp book (Noukyouchou) as proof of your visit.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the spiritual landscape of Japan that gave rise to the Henro, one must look at the country’s foundational texts.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While primarily Shinto, the Kojiki details the creation of the Japanese archipelago, specifically mentioning the birth of the island of Shikoku as having “four faces,” establishing the land’s inherent divinity long before Buddhism arrived.
- Kobo Daishi’s Writings: For a deeper dive into the philosophy behind the pilgrimage, The Precious Key to the Secret Treasury by Kukai offers insight into Shingon teachings.
- Japanese Pilgrimage by Oliver Statler: A classic English text that chronicles the history and personal experience of the walk.
The Shikoku Henro is more than a hike; it is a journey into the soul of Japan. Whether seeking religious salvation, personal reflection, or simply the challenge of the road, the path awaits.