Noppera-bo: Unveiling Japan’s Spooky Faceless Ghost
Imagine walking down a dimly lit street in old Edo (modern-day Tokyo). You encounter a figure weeping in the shadows. Concerned, you approach to offer assistance. The figure turns toward you, brushing a hand over their face. In an instant, their features vanish—no eyes, no nose, no mouth—leaving only a terrifying sheet of smooth, blank skin. You have just met the Noppera-bo.
As a travel and culture enthusiast exploring Japan, diving into the world of yokai (spirits and monsters) is essential to understanding the country’s folklore. Among these supernatural entities, the Noppera-bo stands out not for its violence, but for its sheer, uncanny ability to terrify through surprise. In this guide, we will peel back the layers of this faceless mystery.
Origins of the Faceless Spirit
The name Noppera-bo (のっぺらぼう) roughly translates to “faceless monk” or “faceless fellow.” Etymologically, it combines nopperi (flat or smooth) and bo (a term often used for monks or young men). Unlike the vengeful ghosts (onryo) like Sadako from The Ring, the Noppera-bo is generally considered a mischievous trickster rather than a lethal threat.
In Japanese folklore, the Noppera-bo is rarely a creature in its own right. Instead, it is often a shapeshifting animal—typically a kitsune (fox), tanuki (raccoon dog), or mujina (badger)—taking on a human form to prank travelers. The goal is simple: scare the human out of their wits. The creature enjoys the terrified reaction of the victim, feeding off the fear generated by the sudden erasure of identity and humanity.
The Legend of the Akasaka Road
While there are many tales of faceless spirits throughout Japan, one story reigns supreme. It was immortalized by the Greek-Irish writer Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo) in his 1904 collection, Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things. This story is often titled “Mujina.”
The Encounter
According to the legend, an old merchant was walking up the Kii-no-kuni-zaka slope in the Akasaka district of Tokyo late one night. He spotted a young woman crouching by the moat, weeping bitterly. Fearing she might drown herself, he approached to comfort her. He begged her to stop crying and tell him her trouble.
For a long time, she turned her back to him, weeping. Finally, she turned around. The merchant dropped his lantern in horror. She had no eyes, no nose, and no mouth—her face was as smooth as an egg.
The Second Scare
Terrified, the merchant ran into the darkness until he saw the warm lantern light of a soba (buckwheat noodle) vendor. Breathless, he collapsed near the stall. The vendor asked, “What is the matter? Did you see a ghost?”
“Yes!” the merchant gasped. “I saw a woman… she had no face!”
The soba vendor turned toward him and stroked his own face. “Did it look… something like THIS?”
Instantly, the vendor’s features vanished, leaving a blank slate. The lights went out, and the merchant was left alone in the dark, surrounded by the laughter of the mujina.
Noppera-bo in Modern Culture
The image of the Noppera-bo remains a potent symbol in modern Japanese pop culture, transcending its Edo-period roots.
- Studio Ghibli: Perhaps the most famous visual reference is Kaonashi (No-Face) from Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away. While Kaonashi is a complex, original spirit that consumes others to gain a voice, its initial silent, masked appearance draws heavy inspiration from the concept of the faceless yokai.
- Anime and Manga: The yokai genre, including series like GeGeGe no Kitaro and Natsume’s Book of Friends, frequently features the Noppera-bo as a classic character.
- Video Games: In the Animal Crossing series, the character “Blanca” is a faceless cat whose face the player must draw, a playful nod to the legend. More menacing versions appear in games like Nioh and Yo-Kai Watch.
Traveler’s Tips: Seeking the Supernatural
If you are a folklore enthusiast visiting Japan, here are a few ways to connect with the legend of the Noppera-bo:
- Visit Matsue: Visit the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture. Hearn is the man responsible for introducing the Noppera-bo to the Western world, and the museum offers a fascinating look into his life and love for Japanese ghost stories.
- Akasaka, Tokyo: You can walk the Kii-no-kuni-zaka slope in Akasaka. While it is now a bustling metropolitan area near the Akasaka Palace and devoid of dark moats, knowing the history adds an eerie layer to a night walk.
- Yokai Street (Kyoto): Visit Ichijo-dori in Kyoto, known as “Yokai Street.” Local shops display homemade yokai monsters outside their storefronts, and you might just spot a faceless figure among them.
- Summer Festivals: In Japan, summer is the season for ghost stories (kaidan). Many festivals feature obake-yashiki (haunted houses) where actors often dress as traditional yokai, including the Noppera-bo.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the history of Japanese spirits, the following texts are essential:
- Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things by Lafcadio Hearn (1904) – Contains the definitive “Mujina” story.
- The Kojiki and The Nihon Shoki – While these ancient 8th-century texts focus on Shinto gods and the creation of Japan, they establish the shapeshifting nature of animals like the tanuki and kitsune, laying the groundwork for later yokai folklore.
- Gazu Hyakki Yagyo (The Illustrated Night Parade of a Hundred Demons) by Toriyama Sekien – An 18th-century compendium of yokai art that standardized the visual appearance of many spirits.