Discover Osorezan: Japan’s Gateway to the Underworld

Imagine a landscape where the smell of sulfur hangs heavy in the air, desolate rocky terrain stretches toward an acidic lake, and colorful pinwheels spin furiously in the wind, placed as offerings for departed souls. This is Osorezan (Mount Osore), one of the three most sacred places in Japan, and historically believed to be the entrance to the afterlife.

Located on the remote Shimokita Peninsula in Aomori Prefecture, Osorezan represents a unique intersection of Buddhist doctrine, folk religion, and the raw power of nature. For the culturally curious traveler, a journey here is not just a sightseeing trip; it is a walk along the boundary between the living and the dead.

Origins of the Fear Mountain

Osorezan, literally translating to “Fear Mountain,” was founded as a sacred site in 862 AD by the celebrated Buddhist monk Ennin (Jikaku Daishi). According to temple records, Ennin was guided by a dream to find a sacred mountain resembling the descriptions of the Buddhist hells and paradises. He found it in the caldera of an active volcano in Northern Japan.

Ennin established the Bodai-ji Temple here, which remains the spiritual center of the mountain. Over the centuries, the site became associated with the Tendai sect of Buddhism. Its unique geography—comprising eight surrounding peaks representing the eight petals of the lotus flower and a barren, volcanic basin—perfectly mirrored the mandalas used in esoteric Buddhist meditation. It became a place where the veil between worlds was considered thinnest, drawing pilgrims seeking to console the spirits of their ancestors.

Legends of the Sanzu River

To enter the sacred grounds of Osorezan, visitors must cross an arched red bridge over a small stream. In Japanese mythology, this is the Sanzu River, the equivalent of the River Styx in Greek mythology. It is the boundary line that souls must cross to reach the afterlife.

The Sai no Kawara

Perhaps the most poignant legend associated with Osorezan is that of the Sai no Kawara, the riverbank of the underworld. It is believed that children who die before their parents are unable to cross the river because they have not accumulated enough good deeds. They are doomed to pile stones on the riverbank to build towers for merit, only to have demons knock them down.

However, Jizo Bosatsu, a beloved deity in Japanese Buddhism, protects these children. As you walk through the rocky, volcanic grounds of Osorezan, you will see countless piles of stones and statues of Jizo wearing red bibs and hats. These are offerings left by grieving parents praying for Jizo to guide their lost children to paradise. The spinning colorful pinwheels found everywhere are intended to comfort these young souls.

Modern Culture and the Itako

In contemporary Japanese culture, Osorezan is most famous for the Itako, blind female mediums who possess the ability to perform kuchiyose—summoning the souls of the dead to speak through them. Historically, blind women in the Tohoku region were trained in these spiritual arts as a means of survival.

The Itako Taisai Festival

Twice a year, during the Osorezan Taisai (Grand Festival) in late July and the Autumn Festival in October, the usually quiet mountain transforms. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the site, forming long lines to consult the Itako. While the number of authentic Itako has dwindled significantly in the modern era, the tradition remains a powerful testament to the Japanese desire to maintain a connection with those who have passed on.

Unlike the frightening depictions of ghosts in Western horror, the atmosphere at Osorezan during these times is one of somber reflection, healing, and deep familial love.

Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Osorezan

Visiting Osorezan requires planning, as it is located in one of the more remote parts of Japan’s main island.

• Access: Take the JR Ominato Line to Shimokita Station. From there, a direct bus runs to Osorezan (approx. 45 minutes). Note that buses are infrequent, so check the schedule in advance.
• Seasonality: The mountain is closed from November to April due to heavy snow. The best time to visit is during the festivals in July or October to see the Itako, though this is also when it is most crowded.
• Etiquette: This is an active temple and a site of mourning. Photography is generally permitted on the grounds, but refrain from photographing the Itako during rituals or focusing on grieving families.
• Onsen: Uniquely, there are hot spring baths (onsen) located inside the temple grounds. They are housed in rustic wooden shacks and are free for visitors. The water is highly acidic and sulfurous, believed to heal physical ailments.
• Stay: For a full immersion, you can stay at the temple’s shukubo (pilgrim’s lodging), which includes vegetarian Buddhist cuisine (shojin ryori) and morning prayers.

Sources & Further Reading

• Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For context on the concept of Yomi-no-kuni (the Land of the Dead), which provides the mythological foundation for places like Osorezan.
• Ennin’s Diary: Historical accounts of the monk Ennin’s travels in the 9th century offer insight into the spread of Tendai Buddhism to northern Japan.
• The Catalpa Bow: By Dr. Carmen Blacker, a seminal text on shamanistic practices in Japan, including detailed studies of the Itako tradition.