Ascending the Divine: A Deep Dive into Ontake Worship
Japan is a land where geography and spirituality are inextricably linked. Nowhere is this more evident than on the slopes of Mount Ontake (Ontake-san), the second-highest volcano in Japan. straddling the border of Nagano and Gifu prefectures. While Mount Fuji represents the national icon, Mount Ontake represents the austere, mystical heart of Sangaku Shinko—mountain worship. For centuries, this peak has not merely been a destination for hikers, but a gateway to the divine for practitioners of Ontake Worship (Ontake Shinkō).
The Origins of Ontake Shinkō
Ontake Worship is a fascinating example of Shinbutsu-shūgō, the syncretism of indigenous Shinto and imported Buddhism that defined Japanese religion for over a millennium. Historically, mountains were viewed as the distinct realm of spirits and deities, places too dangerous and sacred for ordinary people to tread.
In the early days, Mount Ontake was the training ground exclusively for shugenja—mountain ascetics who practiced Shugendo. These hermits sought supernatural power and enlightenment through rigorous physical endurance, such as standing under freezing waterfalls or meditating on precipices.
However, the faith transformed significantly during the Edo period (1603–1867). Two ascetic pioneers, Kakumei and Fukan, are credited with “opening” the mountain to the common people. They established trails and rituals that allowed laypeople to climb the mountain safely, provided they underwent purification. This democratization of the sacred led to the formation of Ontake-ko, distinct confraternities or worship groups that traveled from all over Japan to climb the peak, a tradition that persists to this day.
Legends and Deities
The spiritual core of Ontake Worship revolves around the Ontake Okami (Great Deities of Ontake). This trinity consists of three powerful gods:
- Kunitokotachi-no-Mikoto: The primordial god of the earth.
- Onamuchi-no-Mikoto: Often identified with Okuninushi, a god of nation-building and medicine.
- Sukunabikona-no-Mikoto: A dwarf deity of healing and magic.
According to legend, the mountain is not just the abode of these gods; it is their physical manifestation. One of the most unique and mystical aspects of Ontake legend is the practice of Oza (spiritual seating). This is a shamanistic ritual involving a medium (nakaza) and an interrogator (maeza). During the trance, the spirit of the deity is said to descend into the medium, offering oracles and healing advice to believers. This direct communication with the divine sets Ontake worship apart from more formalized Shinto practices.
Modern Culture and Pilgrimage
Today, Mount Ontake remains a vibrant center of faith. If you hike the mountain during the summer climbing season, you will undoubtedly encounter practitioners of the Ontake-kyo sect. They are easily recognizable by their attire: white robes (shiro-shozoku) symbolizing purification and death (rebirth), straw sandals, and pilgrim staffs.
As they ascend the steep, ash-covered trails, these groups chant, “Rokkikon-shojo” (Purification of the six roots of perception). The atmosphere is thick with incense smoke and the ringing of bells. The mountain is dotted with stone monuments—tens of thousands of them—dedicated to spirits of deceased practitioners, turning the entire landscape into a massive, open-air cathedral of stone.
While the 2014 eruption was a tragic event that temporarily closed access to the summit, the mountain has largely reopened. The disaster, in a somber way, reinforced the ancient view of the mountain as a fearsome, living entity that commands respect and awe.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting
Visiting Mount Ontake offers a rare glimpse into a living ancient tradition. Here is how to make the most of your journey:
- Access: The main gateway is usually via the Kiso Valley. From Kiso-Fukushima Station, you can take a bus to the Tanohara trailhead (7th station).
- The Climb: The hike from Tanohara to the summit (Kengamine) takes about 3–4 hours. It is physically demanding but non-technical. However, always check volcanic alert levels before planning a trip.
- Etiquette: If you encounter pilgrims performing rituals or chanting, observe respectfully from a distance. Do not interrupt their prayers for photos.
- Shrines: Even if you do not climb to the top, visit the Ontake Satomiya Shrine at the base. It features massive sacred trees and offers a serene atmosphere perfect for contemplation.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of the deities worshipped here, one must look to Japan’s classical histories. The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) provide the foundational mythology for Kunitokotachi-no-Mikoto and Onamuchi-no-Mikoto, detailing their roles in the creation of the land.
For those interested in the anthropological side of the mountain cults, searching for academic papers on Shugendo and Japanese Folk Religion will provide context on how local beliefs merged with esoteric Buddhism to create the unique faith found on Mount Ontake.